(506) 2240-6804
Diy i3 3d printer
GeeeTech Prusa i3 A Pro 3D printer DIY kit
This Prusa I3 A pro 3D printer is streamlined and optimized based on the previous Geeetech Prusa Aluminum I3 3D printer. This Prusa I3 A pro has the following features.
3-in-1 3D printer control box
As you can see, the most obvious modification is that we add a 3-in-1 3D printer control box for this Prusa I3 A pro which gathers the motherboard, power supply and LCD Cpanel in one box, saving the space taken by the printer and bringing you a neat and organized desktop, most importantly, the power supply is installed inside the control box now, which is not only for protecting the power supply, but also for eliminating unnecessary dangers, protecting your family and your pets.
Easy assembly, easy debugging
High precision machined parts and well-designed mounting holes make the installation process simple and fast. The control box is already assembled by us, what you need to install is only the body, which saves a lot of time for you. The detailed assembly manual makes your DIY assembly easy and time-saving. Detailed instructions provide you with convenient debugging guidance.
Reserved design for upgrading
In consideration of your need to upgrade the extruder in the future, we use reserved design on this printer and you can upgrade any part. This kind of design provides you with more choices of revamping this printer and more ways to use it.
Visible parts, convenient for trouble shooting
Compared with the box-type printer, Prusa I3 3D printer DIY kit is more suitable for starters. All the parts are visible, and you can easy access to those parts. It is very convenient for for trouble shooting when you are using the printer.
For more information, please visit wiki.
Printing specifications:
Print technology: FFF/FDM
Build volume: 200 x200x190mm
Printing resolution: 0.1-0.3mm
Filament diameter: 1.
75mm
Nozzle diameter: 0.4mm
Filament type: ABS/ PLA/Flexible PLA/Wood-polymer
Software:
Operating system: Windows/Mac/Linux
Control software: Repetier-Host, Printrun
File format: .STL , G-code
Temperature:
Max heated bed temperature: about 110°C
Max extruder temperature: about 240°C
Electrical:
Power supply:
Input: 115V or 230V
Output：DC12V/20A
Control board: GT2560
LCD: LCD12864
Connectivity: USB, SD card (support stand-alone printing)
Mechanical:
Body: Aluminum plate of 6 mm thickness
Build Platform: aluminum plate + heated bed
XYZ Rods: Wear-resistant, stainless steel
Stepper Motors: 1.8° step angle with 1/16 micro-stepping
Physical structure: Reprap
Physical dimensions:
Machine size: 450x380x435mm
Shipping box: 520 x 420 x 230 mm
Machine Net weight : 9.
5 kg
Shipping weight: 11.5kg
Price match guarantee:
We work very hard to ensure that we offer the absolute best prices online for all of our printers including Tevo 3D printer kits. If you find another online store that offers a lower price than us on Tevo 3D printers for sale, please let us know and we will refund your original payment for the difference. Read More
30 day price assurance guarantee:
We want you to feel confident that you are getting the absolute best price for the product. If you find that our own website has a lower price for the same item you have ordered within 30 days of your purchase date, we will refund the difference! Read More
Full manufacturer direct warranty:
We are an authorized dealer for all our products and comes with the full manufacturer warranty.
Tax free (except California and Nevada):
The price you see is the price you pay but because we operate in California and Nevada we must charge tax in California and Nevada.
Safe & secure online ordering:
We are certified Level 1 PCI DSS compliant. What this means is that we meet all the requirements defined by the Payment Card Industry Security Standards Council. For additional information on PCI Compliance, visit the PCI Compliance Guide website. We also accept payment via Pay Pal, a leader in secure online payment processing.
Best customer service:
We strive to offer the best customer service we can. If you have any questions please let us know by phone or email.
Exclusive deals:
We appreciate each and every customer that comes to our store. We know you have a lot of choices when it comes to your 3D printing purchase. That's why we'd like to show our appreciation by periodically sending out exclusive coupons and deals to our past customers!
Order Confirmation:
As soon as you place your order you will receive an order confirmation e-mail.
This means that we have received your order in our system and pre-authorized your credit card for the purchase. As soon as we receive your order we automatically reach out to our suppliers to confirm that it is in stock and available for immediate shipment. If your item is on backorder or unavailable we will void the pre-authorization and reach out to you via e-mail. If your item(s) are available for immediate shipment (within 5 business days) we will process the charges and submit the order for shipment.
Order Shipment:
If your order is in stock and we process the charges to your credit card, it will ship within five business days from the date of your order. We will send you tracking information within 24 hours of your order leaving the warehouse to the e-mail address you provide when checking out. If you do not receive tracking information from us within six business days of your order feel free to follow up with us at [email protected]
Domestic Shipping:
We do not ship to P.
O. Box.
International Shipping:
Please contact us for international shipping rates
We work very hard to ensure that we offer the absolute best prices online for all of our printers including Tevo 3D printer kits. If you find another online store that offers a lower price than us on Tevo 3D printers for sale, please let us know. We want you to feel confident when you buy a Tevo 3D printer or any of our other printers that you are getting the absolute best price for the product.
To request your partial refund simply e-mail us a link to the same product on our website, or on our competitors’ website and we will process the credit accordingly.
Our 100% Price Guarantee has some limitations:
- You must purchase the item from our website before requesting your Price Match Guarantee
- Promotions such as rebates and buy one, get one free offers are not eligible
- The item must be in stock on the competitors website
- The competitor must be an online store, they may not have a retail location
- The item must ship from the same country.
- The website cannot be a discounter or auction website (ie; eBay, overstock, etc..)
- The competitor must be an Authorized Retailer for the product in question
- The Price Match Guarantee includes the item price and the shipping charges, it excludes sales tax or any customs and duties
Original Prusa 3D printers directly from Josef Prusa
Our 3D Printers
New on e-shop
Prusament PETG Carbon Fiber Black 1kg
In stock
€54.99 with VAT
Noga Teddy Burr - TB1000 Deburring tool
Out of stock
€13.50 with VAT
DetailOlfa SAC-1 precision knife
In stock
€8.99 with VAT
Prusament PLA Galaxy Green 1kg
In stock
€29.99 with VAT
Prusament Resin Flex80 Black 1kg
In stock
€69 with VAT
Prusament Resin Flex80 Transparent Clear 1kg
In stock
€69 with VAT
Price quote request
Are you considering Original Prusa 3D printers for your classroom, school, library, university or maker space?
Our specialists are here to assist you throughout the whole buying and information-gathering process.
To get in touch with us, please fill out the form below and we will take it from there.
Contact us
Bestsellers
Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit
In stock
€849 with VAT
Choose variant
Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ 3D printer
Leadtime 1 week
€1,159 with VAT
Choose variant
Prusament PETG Prusa Galaxy Black 1kg
Out of stock
€29.99 with VAT
DetailDouble-sided Textured PEI Powder-coated Spring Steel Sheet
In stock
€39.99 with VAT
Original Prusa MINI+ Semi-assembled 3D Printer
Leadtime for MINI+ is 1–2 weeks
€489 with VAT
Choose variant
Prusament PLA Prusa Galaxy Black 1kg
In stock
€29.99 with VAT
Prusament PETG Prusa Orange 1kg
In stock
€29.99 with VAT
Original Prusa Enclosure
New orders have a lead time of 1–2 weeks
€369 with VAT
Choose variant
Spring Steel Sheet With Smooth Double-sided PEI
In stock
€34.
99 with VATPrusament PETG Jet Black 1kg
In stock
€29.99 with VAT
Prusament Resin Tough Prusa Orange 1kg
In stock
€69 with VAT
Prusament PLA Galaxy Silver 1kg
In stock
€29.99 with VAT
Hello, we are Prusa Research!
And we make more than just amazing 3D printers!
Read our story
Prusa Services
Printables.com
Discover thousands of great printable 3D models
Downloads
Get the latest firmware and apps
Forum
Discuss 3D printing topics with the community
Prusament
Affordable filament for everyday printing in premium quality
Help
Assembly and troubleshooting guides, technical documentation
Blog
3D printing highlights, tips and interviews all in one place
E-Book: Basics of 3D Printing
This book will help you understand what kinds of 3D printing technologies are currently available and how they work.
We will take you through the whole process of 3D printing.
I don’t agree with subscribing to newsletterand I want to buy the e-book for 5 USD / 5 EUR.
News from the blog
Our printers continue to collect great reviews and awards all around the world. Original Prusa i3 MK3/S is the best 3D Printer in the Ultimate Guide to Digital Fabrication by MAKE: Magazine and our printers also received several editor's choices and awards from respected media outlets like All3DP, PC Mag, Tom's Hardware, TechRadar, Forbes, WireCutter, Windows Central and many more!
When we weigh up the price, performance, reliability and overall product, it is highly recommended for most people to purchase because it does things so well.
– 3D Printerly ReviewThe preassembled version of the Original Prusa i3 MK3S is a cinch to get up and running, is easy to operate, and has a good slicing program. It produced consistently beautiful prints in our testing, with no misprints.
– PC Mag Review
Of the 11 printers we have tested over the past five years, the Prusa i3 MK3S printer has produced the largest and best-looking prints.
– THE NEW YORK TIMES REVIEWWe tested it using its default settings and found it extremely capable. Its print quality is truly exceptional and it’s an easy-to-use, straightforward machine.
– All3DP MK3S ReviewThe team at Prusa Research have made something special with the MK3. If you only ever own one printer, make it this one. Of course, once you buy it you will want more of them, and that's ok too.
– Windows Central ReviewIt is the most well-made resin printer that I have and it objectively produces the best prints.
– The Prusa SL1S redefines SPEED!
Original or copy Prusa i3. What to choose?
The Prusa i3 is not only a Josef Prusa branded 3D printer, it is also the standard layout for many budget 3D printers.
The original Prusa i3 evolved from the RepRap project, which eventually led to the creation of Prusa Research, a popular manufacturer of high quality open source 3D printers.
Since the release of the original i3 in 2012, Prusa Research has released several updated versions of the 3D printer, including the Prusa i3 MK2, MK3, MK3S and finally MK3S+. Meanwhile, apart from the official Prusa i3 releases, many other companies have been making clones of the original Prusa i3.
These clones follow the Prusa i3 design and even use the term "Prusa i3" to describe the layout. i3 clones usually look like the original Prusa i3 but use cheaper parts to lower the overall price and attract more buyers. Clone manufacturers make 3D printers as cheap as possible, which is why they are often sold under open source licenses.
It's worth noting that while 3D printers like the Ender 3 or Anet A8 were inspired by the original Prusa i3 design and are technically i3 clones, they now essentially exist in their own categories.
Many of them now have their own development history and are not related to Prusa printers. What this all means is that when we use the word "clone" we are referring to the similar Prusa i3 styling that some 3D printers use, including the Ender 3 and Anet A8.
Although the original and clones may seem similar, there are significant differences between them. So which is better? The main differences are quality and cost, but there are other factors as well. In this article, we will try to understand these differences.
Original Prusa i3
Original Prusa i3 is one of the most famous open source 3D printers. Its widespread success has led Prusa Research and other manufacturers to create many official and unofficial versions. For this reason, we will be using the official Prusa i3 MK3S+ as our reference Prusa i3 printer.
Currently, when the MK3S is being retired, only the MK3S+ is available for purchase. While the ~$1,200 price tag for a pre-assembled MK3S+ (~$900 per kit) might seem intimidating, you get what you pay for.
The MK3S+ is a great deal thanks to the attention to detail and quality assurance.
The main factors that determine the benefits of MK3S + can be divided into three groups: the 3D printer itself, the firmware and the ecosystem.
Original Prusa i3: mechanics and construction
The MK3S+ is assembled from high quality parts and assemblies that you can rely on for your 3D printing work day in and day out.
To begin with, it comes with the official E3D V6 all-metal hot end, a high quality and branded hot end. The MK3S+ also uses a 32-bit motherboard with dynamic stepper motor drivers, making this 3D printer both quiet and powerful. In addition, in the electronics, the MK3S+ uses multiple sensors to improve print reliability.
Unlike the alternate Bowden style many printers use, the MK3S+ has a direct drive system that allows printing on flexible plastics. There are even dual motors on the Z-axis, allowing for higher quality 3D printing. The printer is equipped with a full color display and a quiet Noctua fan, unlike many other copies that use a single color LCD display and noisier fans.
And one of the most important advantages of the original Prusa i3 is the PEI spring steel desktop and automatic table leveling features not found in comparable desktop 3D printers.
Overall, the MK3S+ uses higher quality parts that together deliver consistently high quality 3D prints.
Original Prusa i3: Firmware
Firmware is another key aspect of the MK3S+. First, you can easily change the firmware using the PrusaSlicer (attached to the printer's Rambo motherboard). This is partly because Prusa Research uses Marlin-based firmware for all of its FDM printers, including the MK3S+.
In terms of firmware, what sets the MK3S+ apart from other printers in its class is the frequent firmware updates that Prusa releases. Unlike many other 3D printer manufacturers, Prusa has released very stable firmware without sacrificing some of the latest and greatest features such as linear advancement that improves 3D print quality.
Original Prusa i3 User Support
When you purchase a 3D printer from Prusa Research, you get guaranteed company support, documentation, product support and more.
You know that you can count on Prusa to help you if you run into problems with your 3D printer.
Since the Prusa MK3S+ is the main printer for Prusa, they also offer a number of upgrades. For example, MMU2S will give you access to multi-color printing. You can also purchase spare parts and assemblies without worrying about their compatibility.
In addition to this, Prusa offers its own 3D file repository known as PrusaPrinters. There you can find 3D models and specific suggestions for setting up 3D printing. Prusa is also very active in the maker community, with a great blog where you can ask questions and learn how to fix, upgrade and set up your 3D printer.
Prusa i3 copies
After the success of the Prusa i3, other manufacturers also looked into 3D printing and created i3 clones. Generally speaking, such manufacturers try to keep the cost of a 3D printer as low as possible while retaining key features.
Below we will use Creality Ender 3 and Anet A8 as examples of Prusa i3 clones.
Anet A8 can be considered a "closer" clone as the frame and some features are very similar. On the other hand, Ender 3 is not so much a clone as it is the result of development that was originally inspired by the Prusa i3.
As in the previous section, the important factors influencing the decision to buy a Prusa i3 clone can be divided into three groups: the 3D printer itself, the firmware, and the ecosystem.
Prusa i3 replicas: mechanics and construction
Most of the clones are missing many small features that make all the difference when it comes to 3D print quality and usability. For example, the Anet A8 usually comes with unbranded parts and even important parts like the hot end are often less reliable. The Ender 3, for example, uses a Bowden 3D printing plastic feed system because it's a simpler design than the direct drive system on the MK3S+.
Virtually all clones lack automatic table leveling. This means that you will have to manually calibrate the 3D printer bed.
Prusa i3 clones usually use lower quality electronics. For example, using a more budget-friendly motherboard results in fewer features and noisy drive drivers. Both the Ender 3 and the Anet A8 use poor quality fans, and although they are not the most important part of the design, they affect the noise level of the 3D printer. The Anet A8 uses two z-drives, but this is more of an exception to the rule and most copies only use one, resulting in more 3D print quality issues.
Prusa i3 copies: firmware
Prusa i3 clones are usually open source, but changing firmware can cause problems. For example, both the original Ender 3 and Anet A8 require a bootloader (which is often used as an Arduino Uno) to update the firmware. However, most clones can run several different types of firmware such as regular Marlin, Vanilla Marlin and Th4D Marlin.
No matter how similar the clone is to the original Prusa i3, most of them use similar outdated Marlin-based firmware.
Unlike Prusa, clone makers rarely release updates to their firmware, and even updates don't include the latest features. Cloned software is known to lack security features and disable many of Marlin's great features, such as "Linear Advance" (a setting that stabilizes filament pressure in the nozzle), as motherboards cannot provide the necessary processing power.
Prusa i3 Copies: User Support
Finally, don't count on good user support, as clone makers usually don't provide good documentation. In the case of copies of Prusa i3 3D printers, there may be problems with the return of goods. Manufacturers usually don't provide model-specific updates like Prusa Research does for their 3D printers.
However, successful copies sometimes form a strong DIY community and you can find a lot of information about modifications and improvements to your 3D printer. Good examples of 3D printers with a large community and a wealth of information on the internet are the Ender 3 and Anet A8.
However, it should be borne in mind that it is worth being able to filter information, and you will make all modifications at your own risk.
So what to buy - original or clone Prusa i3?
The original Prusa i3 is a great 3D printer, but the clones have an attractive lower price. However, quality matters a lot. Small individual parts of a 3D printer, such as fans, motherboard, and sensors, may seem unimportant, but they all contribute to a better 3D print.
Although real Prusa i3 printers are much more expensive than clones, they provide more useful features and quality. Copies include only the necessary basis for 3D printing and it is the price that reflects this fact. Prusa i3 clones contain unbranded parts, usually of lower quality. On the one hand, this is a minus, but on the other hand, replacing them will also be cheaper.
Perhaps the biggest difference between an original transaction and a clone is quality control. A genuine Prusa i3 printer with its high quality parts makes 3D printing easy, while a clone will require you to fiddle around to get a good 3D print result.
An original Prusa i3 printer like the MK3S+ will likely last longer than a clone and be less likely to break.
Buying an original Prusa i3 3D printer is probably the best choice if you are looking for a higher end printer that you will use for a long time. On the other hand, if you're new to 3D printing, want to give it a try, like repairing and modifying 3D printers, or on a tight budget, you should consider purchasing a clone.
Building a home 3D printer with your own hands: recommendations from personal experience
3D printing and assembly of 3D printers is my hobby and passion. Here I will not share detailed diagrams and drawings, there are more than enough of them on specialized resources. The main goal of this material is to tell you where to start, where to dig and how to avoid mistakes in the process of assembling a home 3D printer. Perhaps one of the readers will be inspired by applied engineering achievements.
Why do you need a 3D printer? Use cases for
I first came across the idea of 3D printing back in the 90s when I was watching the Star Trek series.
I remember how impressed I was by the moment when the heroes of the cult series printed the things they needed during their journey right on board their starship. They printed anything: from shoes to tools. I thought it would be great someday to have such a thing too. Then it all seemed something incredible. Outside the window are the gloomy 90s, and the Nokia with a monochrome screen was the pinnacle of progress, accessible only to a select few.
Years passed, everything changed. Around 2010, the first working models of 3D printers began to appear on sale. Yesterday's fantasy has become a reality. However, the cost of such solutions, to put it mildly, discouraged. But the IT industry would not be itself without an inquisitive community, where there is an active exchange of knowledge and experience and who just let them dig into the brains and giblets of new hardware and software. So, drawings and diagrams of printers began to surface more and more often on the Web. Today, the most informative and voluminous resource on the topic of assembling 3D printers is RepRap - this is a huge knowledge base that contains detailed guides for creating a wide variety of models of these machines.
I assembled the first printer about five years ago. My personal motivation to build my own device is quite prosaic and based on several factors. Firstly, there was an opportunity to try to realize the old dream of having your own device, inspired by a fantasy series. The second factor is that sometimes it was necessary to repair some household items (for example, a baby stroller, car elements, household appliances and other small things), but the necessary parts could not be found. Well, the third aspect of the application is "near-working". On the printer, I make cases for various IoT devices that I assemble at home.
Agree, it is better to place your device based on Raspberry Pi or Arduino in an aesthetically pleasing "body", which is not a shame to put in an apartment or take to the office, than to organize components, for example, in a plastic bowl for food. And yes, you can print parts to build other printers :)
There are a lot of scenarios for using 3D printers.
I think everyone can find something of their own.
A complex part in terms of drawing that I printed on my printer. Yes, it's just a figurine, but it has many small elements
Ready solution vs custom build
When a technology has been tested, its value in the market decreases markedly. The same thing happened in the world of 3D printers. If earlier a ready-made solution cost simply sky-high money, then today acquiring such a machine is more humane for the wallet, but nevertheless not the most affordable for an enthusiast. There are a number of solutions already assembled and ready for home use on the market, their price range ranges from $500-700 (not the best options) to infinity (adequate solutions start from a price tag of about $1000). Yes, there are options for $150, but we, for understandable, I hope, reasons, will not dwell on them.
In short, there are three cases to consider a finished assembly:
- when you plan to print not much and rarely;
- when print accuracy is critical;
- you need to print molds for mass production of parts.
There are several obvious advantages to self-assembly. The first and most important is cost. Buying all the necessary components will cost you a maximum of a couple of hundred dollars. In return, you will receive a complete 3D printing solution with the quality of manufactured products acceptable for domestic needs. The second advantage is that by assembling the printer yourself, you will understand the principles of its design and operation. Believe me, this knowledge will be useful to you during the operation of even an expensive ready-made solution - any 3D printer needs to be serviced regularly, and it can be difficult to do this without understanding the basics.
The main disadvantage of assembly is the need for a large amount of time.
I spent about 150 hours on my first build.
What you need to assemble the printer yourself
The most important thing here is the presence of desire. As for any special skills, then, by and large, in order to assemble your first printer, the ability to solder or write code is not critical. Of course, understanding the basics of radio electronics and basic skills in the field of mechanics (that is, "straight hands") will greatly simplify the task and reduce the amount of time that needs to be spent on assembly.
Also, to start we need a mandatory set of parts:
- Extruder is the element that is directly responsible for printing, the print head. There are many options on the market, but for a budget build, I recommend the MK8. Of the minuses: it will not be possible to print with plastics that require high temperatures, there is noticeable overheating during intensive work, which can damage the element. If the budget allows, then you can look at MK10 - all the minuses are taken into account there.
- Processor board. The familiar Arduino Mega is well suited. I didn't notice any downsides to this solution, but you can spend a couple of dollars more and get something more powerful, with a reserve for the future.
- Control board. I'm using RAMPS 1.4 which works great with the Arduino Mega. A more expensive but more reliable board is Shield, which already combines a processor board and a control board. In modern realities, I recommend paying attention to it. In addition to it, you need to purchase at least 5 microstep stepper motor controllers, for example - A4988. And it's better to have a couple of these in stock for replacement.
- Heated table. This is the part where the printed element will be located. Heating is necessary due to the fact that most plastics will not adhere to a cold surface. For example, for printing with PLA plastic, the required surface temperature of the table is 60-80°C, for ABS - 110-130°C, and for polycarbonate it will be even higher
There are also two options for choosing a table - cheaper and more expensive.
Cheaper options are essentially printed circuit boards with preheated wiring. To operate on this type of table, you will need to put borosilicate glass, which will scratch and crack during operation. Therefore, the best solution is an aluminum table. - Stepper motors. Most models, including the i2 and i3, use NEMA 17 size motors, two for the Z axis and one each for the X and Y axes. Finished extruders usually come with their own stepper motor. It is better to take powerful motors with a current in the motor winding of 1A or more, so that there is enough power to lift the extruder and print without skipping steps at high speed.
- Basic set of plastic fasteners.
- Belt and gears to drive it.
Examples of elements appearance: 1) MK8 extruder; 2) Arduino processor board; 3) RAMPS control board; 4) motor controllers; 5) aluminum heated table; 6) NEMA 17 stepper motor; 7) a set of plastic fasteners; 8) drive gears; 9) drive belt
This is a list of items to be purchased.
Hardcore users can assemble some of them themselves, but for beginners, I strongly recommend purchasing ready-made solutions.
Yes, you will also need various small things (studs, bearings, nuts, bolts, washers ...) to assemble the case. In practice, it turned out that using a standard m8 stud leads to low printing accuracy on the Z axis. I would recommend immediately replacing it with a trapezoid of the same size.
M8 trapezoid stud for the Z axis, the use of which will save you a lot of time and nerves. Available for order on all major online marketplaces
You also need to purchase customized X-axis plastic parts, such as these from the MendelMax retrofit kit.
Most parts available at your local hardware store. On RepRap you can find a complete list of necessary little things with all sizes and patterns. The kit you need will depend on the choice of platform (we'll talk about platforms later).
What's the price
Before delving into some aspects of the assembly, let's figure out how much such entertainment will cost for your wallet.
Below is a list of parts required for purchase with an average price.
Platform selection
The community has already developed a number of different platforms for assembling printers - the most optimal case designs and the location of the main elements, so you do not have to reinvent the wheel.
i2 and i3 are key platforms for self-assembly printer enclosures. There are also many modifications of them with various improvements, but for beginners, these two classic platforms should be considered, since they do not require special skills and fine-tuning.
Actually, illustration of platforms: 1) i2 platform; 2) i3 platform
On the plus side of i2: it has a more reliable and stable design, although it is a little more difficult to assemble; more opportunities for further customization.
The i3 variant requires more special plastic parts to be purchased separately and has a slow print speed. However, it is easier to assemble and maintain, and has a more aesthetically pleasing appearance.
You will have to pay for simplicity with the quality of printed parts - the body has less stability than i2, which can affect print accuracy.
Personally, I started my experiments in assembling printers from the i2 platform. She will be discussed further.
Assembly steps, challenges and improvements
In this block, I will only touch on the key assembly steps using the i2 platform as an example. Full step by step instructions can be found here.
The general scheme of all the main components looks something like this. There is nothing particularly complicated here:
I also recommend adding a display to your design. Yes, you can easily do without this element when performing operations on a PC, but it will be much more convenient to work with the printer this way.
Understanding how all components will be connected, let's move on to the mechanical part, where we have two main elements - a frame and a coordinate machine.
Assembling the frame
Detailed frame assembly instructions are available on RepRap.
Of the important nuances - you will need a set of plastic parts (I already talked about this above, but I'll repeat it better), which you can either purchase separately or ask your comrades who already have a 3D printer to print.
The frame of the i2 is quite stable thanks to its trapezoid shape.
This is how the frame looks like with parts already partially installed. For greater rigidity, I reinforced the structure with plywood sheets
Coordinate machine
An extruder is attached to this part. The stepper motors shown in the diagram above are responsible for its movement. After installation, calibration is required along all major axes.
Important - you will need to purchase (or make your own) a carriage for moving the extruder and a mount for the drive belt. Drive belt I recommend GT2.
The carriage printed by the printer from the previous picture after it has been assembled.
The part already has LM8UU bearings for guides and belt mount (top)
Calibration and adjustment
So, we completed the assembly process (as I said, it took me 150 hours) - the frame was assembled, the machine was installed. Now another important step is the calibration of this very machine and extruder. Here, too, there are small subtleties.
Setting up the machine
I recommend calibrating the machine with an electronic caliper. Do not be stingy with its purchase - you will save a lot of time and nerves in the process.
The screenshot below shows the correct constants for the Marlin firmware, which must be selected in order to set the correct number of steps per unit of measure. We calculate the coefficient, multiply it, substitute it into the firmware, and then upload it to the board.
Marlin 9 firmware constants0114
For high-quality calibration, I recommend relying on larger numbers in measurements - take not 1-1.
5 cm, but about 10. So the error will be more noticeable, and it will become easier to correct it.
Calibrating the extruder
When the frame is assembled, the machine is calibrated, we start setting up the extruder. Here, too, everything is not so simple. The main task of this operation is to correctly adjust the supply of plastic.
If underfeeding, the printed test item will have noticeable gaps, like test die 1. Conversely, the result will look bloated if plastic is overfed (dice 2)
Getting Started Printing
It remains for us to run some CAD or download ready-made .stl, which describe the structure of the printed material. Next, this structure needs to be converted into a set of commands understandable to our printer. For this I use the Slicer program. It also needs to be set up correctly - specify the temperature, the size of the extruder nozzle. After that, the data can be sent to the printer.
Slicer interface
As a raw material for printing, I recommend starting with regular ABS plastic - it is quite strong, products made from it are durable, and it does not require high temperatures to work with.
For comfortable printing with ABS plastic, the table must be heated to a temperature of 110-130 ° C, and the extruder nozzle - within 230-260 ° C.
Some important details. Before printing, calibrate the machine along the Z axis. The extruder nozzle should be approximately half a millimeter from the table and ride along it without distortion. For this calibration, a regular sheet of A4 paper inserted between the nozzle and the surface of the heated table is best suited. If the sheet can be moved with little effort, the calibration is correct.
Another thing to keep in mind is the surface treatment of the heated table. Usually, before printing, the surface of the table is covered with something that hot plastic sticks to well. For ABS plastic, this can be, for example, Kapton tape. The disadvantage of adhesive tape is the need to re-glue it after several printing cycles. In addition, you will have to literally tear off the adhering part from it. All this, believe me, takes a lot of time.
Therefore, if it is possible to avoid this fuss, it is better to avoid it.
An alternative option that I use instead of scotch tape is to apply several layers of ordinary light beer, followed by heating the table to 80-100 ° C until the surface is completely dry and re-applying 7-12 layers. It is necessary to apply the liquid with a cloth moistened with a drink. Among the advantages of this solution: ABS plastic separates from the table on its own when it cools down to about 50 ° C and is removed without effort, the table does not have to be peeled off, and one bottle of beer will last you for several months (if you use the drink only for technical purposes :)).
After we have collected and configured everything, we can start printing. If you have an LCD screen, then the file can be transferred for printing using a regular SD card.
The first results may have bumps and other artifacts - do not worry, this is a normal process of "grinding" the printer elements, which will end after a few print cycles.
Tips to make life easier (and sometimes save money)
In addition to the small recommendations given in the text above, in this section I will also give a short list of tips that will greatly simplify the operation of a 3D printer and the life of its owner.
- Do not experiment with nozzles. If you plan to immediately print from materials that require high temperatures, then it is better to immediately take the MK10 extruder. On MK8, you can "hang" special nozzles that support high-temperature conditions. But such modifications often cause difficulties and require special experience. It is better to avoid this fuss on the shore by simply installing the right extruder for you.
- Add starter relay for heated table. Improving the power supply system of this important part for printing using a starter relay will help solve the known problem of RAMP 1.4 - overheating of the transistors that control the power of the table, which can lead to failure of the board.
I made this upgrade after having to throw away a few RAMPS 1.4s. - Select the correct media diameter for printing. I recommend using 1.75mm plastic for MK8 and MK10. If we take plastic, for example, 3 mm, then the extruder simply does not have enough strength to push it at an acceptable speed - everything will be printed much longer, and the quality will drop. ABS plastic is ideal for MK8, MK10 will be able to produce products from polycarbonate.
- Use only new and precise X and Y guides. Print quality will be affected. It is difficult to count on good quality with bent or deformed guides along the axes.
- Take care of cooling. During my experiments with various extruders, the MK10 showed the best results - it prints quite accurately and quickly. The MK10 can also print plastics that require a higher print temperature than ABS, such as polycarbonate. Although it is not as prone to overheating as its younger brother MK8, I still recommend taking care of its cooling by adding a cooler to your design.
It must be permanently enabled, this option can be configured in Slicer. You can also add coolers to keep the stepper motors at an acceptable temperature, however, make sure that their air flows do not fall on the printed part, as this can lead to its deformation due to too rapid cooling. - Consider heat retention. Yes, on the one hand, we are struggling with overheating of the elements. On the other hand, a uniform temperature around the printer will contribute to high-quality printing (the plastic will be more pliable). To achieve a uniform temperature, you can put our printer, for example, in a cardboard box. The main thing is to connect and configure the coolers before that, as described above.
- Consider insulating your desk. Heated table heats up to high temperatures. And if part of this heat leaves properly, heating the printed part, then the second part (from below) just goes down. To concentrate the heat from the table onto the part, you can perform an operation to insulate it.
To do this, I simply attach a cork mouse pad to its bottom using stationery clips.
Pins
I am sure that during the assembly process you will encounter a number of difficulties specific to your project. Neither this text nor even the most detailed guides will insure against this.
As I wrote in the introductory part, the above does not claim the status of a detailed assembly manual. It is almost impossible to describe all, all the stages and their subtleties within the framework of one such text. First of all, this is an overview material that will help you prepare for the assembly process (both mentally and financially), understand whether you personally need to bother with self-assembly - or give up on everything and buy a ready-made solution.
For me, assembling printers has become an exciting hobby that helps me solve some issues in home and work affairs, take my mind off programming and do something interesting with my own hands. For my children - entertainment and the opportunity to get unusual and unique toys.
