Build reprap 3d printer

Build a reprap - RepRap

This page has been flagged as containing duplicate material that PartsSupplies also attempts to cover.
These pages should be merged such that both pages do not attempt to cover the duplicate topics.

This page has been flagged as containing duplicate material that Darwin/Buyers Guide also attempts to cover.
These pages should be merged such that both pages do not attempt to cover the duplicate topics.

This page has been flagged as containing duplicate material that What Tooling Do You Have also attempts to cover.
These pages should be merged such that both pages do not attempt to cover the duplicate topics.

This page is out of date --Sebastien Bailard 04:34, 31 October 2010 (UTC) 

This page is not only out of date, but contains in part simply nonsense - especially the "Software installation" section. For the lack of editors, this page should be removed. --Traumflug 21:18, 13 April 2011 (UTC) 

Contents

• 1 Build a RepRap
• 2 Overview
  • 2. 1 Object Creation Software
  • 2.2 System control Software
  • 2.3 Installing the Software (experimental)
  • 2.4 Thermoplast extruder
  • 2.5 Positioning system
  • 2.6 Shopping list

There are multiple ways to build a RepRap or RepStrap; the method selected for these instructions has been chosen to minimize skills and tools needed. If you wish to explore other options click Alternative Build Documentation.

The Classic RepRap Design is "Darwin" pictured on the right. There are very full and accurate building instructions in Make Your Own RepRap.

The RepRap was carefully designed to use only parts that can be made on a RepRap and other cheap parts that you can get anywhere. It was also designed to require few skills to assemble. The one snag is you have to find someone to supply you with the parts that must be made on a RepRap.

RepStrap Darwin Clones are RepRap designs which are fairly accurately copies of the Darwin design but the RepRapped parts are replaced by parts created some other way, Perhaps molded plastic or laser cut acrylic or plywood. Generally parts of one of these machines are interchangeable with RepRapped Darwin parts. Here are some Parts Suppliers.

Other RepStraps, these are 3D printers capable of making RepRap (Darwin) parts but are not structurally similar to Darwin. These machines may vary a lot but may be separated into two kinds. Those like Darwin in which the extruder (print head) is moved in the x and y directions and the work is slowly lowered as the print progresses and others where the work is moved in the x and y directions under a stationary head which gradually moves upwards as the print progresses. Here are some references to various RepStrap Machines.

If this is your first RepRap that you are building, here is a basic guide of which build option you should choose:

• If you have a friend nearby that can print out the RepRap part on their RepRap or some other 3D printer. Choose the Classic Darwin
• If you don't have access to a 3d printer then you have 3 options.
  • You can build a Classic Darwin, but this means you will have to use a commercial service to print out parts for you; it can easily cost over $1000 for just those parts depending on what deals you can get. This option is probably the most expensive option.
  • You can build a RepStrap Darwin Clone. This means you can either buy a lasercut acrylic kit from Bits from Bytes or make some part yourself by machining them. This option is becoming the more common option especially because soon you will be able to buy a lasercut kit from Ponoko which has offices in the US. This is also usually cheaper than the first option.
  • The third option is to build non-clone RepStrap that does not have the same frame as a Darwin, such as McWire which uses pipes for the frame. This option is usually the cheapest, but each RepStrap has it own weaknesses. The good thing is that when complete they can print out parts so that you can build a Classic Darwin. The electronics are compatible with Darwin so you only have to buy them once.

A RepRap or RepStrap (A RepRap can build itself, a RepStrap can build something that can build itself) can be divided into several key areas:

• Object creation Software
• System control Software
• Thermoplastic extruder
• Positioning system (the Cartesian Bot)
• The electronics to control the positioning system

Object Creation Software

Art of Illusion is currently the software most recommended for designing objects to be printed. It's not a CAD package but it is easy to use. The software allows you to create and manipulate 3D shapes. You can store these shapes in STL file format. STL files are object files that are used in Rapid Prototyping. These STL files can be printed off into real 3D objects using your 3D printer (RepRap).

The software is free (GNU GPL version 2) and it is available for Mac OS X, Windows and Linux. If you want to try it out without installing it's available bundled in the Linux distribution liveCD with the rest of the hosted software for the RepRap project.

System control Software

RepRap is controlled via USB or an RS232 interface. You may find a description or download from RepRap Host Software.

There is a RepRap variant which allows you to print an object from a file saved onto a SD card.

Installing the Software (experimental)

This set of instructions tells you how to set up all the software you need for a Reprap in one big blow under Linux Debian.
It involves 5 steps that anyone should be able to complete in a few hours of his/her spare time.
It's easy.
Really.

Warning: Proceed at your own risk. The instructions are not double checked yet.

Prerequisites
You'll need

• a PC (not too old)
  
• broadband internet access
  
• some time
  

Step 1: If you have Windows, go to [Here], get your copy of the Debian installer with one click and start it.

If you already have Linux: Install Debian Lenny some way or the other (you know how to do that ;-)) and continue with Step 3.

Step 2: Follow the instructions. I suggest installing on a 4GB USB stick - but you can also install it all on your hard disk. Be careful to select "testing" instead of stable - this installs Lenny instead of etch. Otherwise the standard settings should be ok in most cases. Don't say "yes" to things you might regret. After a while, a standard system should be installed. Don't forget to install the GRUB boot loader.

Step 3: Log in and say

 sudo apt-get install firefox 

on the command line.

Step 4: Start firefox and download this Media:Reprap_setup.sh script.

Step 5: Run the script from the shell with

 sudo ./Reprap_setup.sh" 

Now all the software specific to Reprap is retrieved and installed.
This includes the AVR-Tools, Subversion, Java3d, the Reprap-source tree etc. Installing all that will take some time.
Having successfully reached this point you should try to start the software in reprap-host with:

 ant run 

If you now see the main window of the host software, you're done.
Congrats! You have made it!
You still have to learn how to use it - but that is another story and another tutorial.

Thermoplast extruder

There are three different extruders all of which, in the end, perform the same function. There is the "official" extruder that can be made by another RepRap. Then there are the kits which are mass produced so it is easier to start printing your first parts. Both kits are designed to be interchangeable with the official extruder.

• RepRapable Thermoplast Extuder
  Can be made by another RepRap or commercial rapid prototyper. These are not the only ways the parts can be made but are the easiest. Some builders have made them from machining aluminum or plastic. Others by making molds and casting from resin. This is only for the main pieces of the extruder. The drive screw and other mechanics must be bought or machined.
• Kit from Bits from Bytes (laser cut acrylic)
  There is an extruder kit currently available from Bits from Bytes who are based in the UK. The kit is part of the silver or gold kits and doesn't need ordering separately unless you want a spare. Assembly instructions are available on the Bits from Bytes website in the 'Assembly Instructions' area:
  Bits from Bytes Extruder Assembly instructions
  Bits from Bytes Extruder 3d Model - the model requires a recent copy of Adobe Acrobat.
  There are videos of the construction process, in the 'Tutorials' section of the website.
  Bits from Bytes Heater Barrel Assembly
  Bits from Bytes Extruder Drive Assembly

• Kit from Ponoko (laser cut plywood)
  A kit will soon be available via Ponoko which has offices in the US.

Positioning system

The positioning system is the greatest part of the size of a RepRap. It is what moves the extruder head from place to place. Kits are available from Bits from Bytes, either the FULL Mechanical Kit - Silver or Gold contain all the components necessary to build a positioning system and extruder. Assembly instructions are available on the bits from bytes website in the 'Assembly Instructions' area:

Bits from Bytes Assembly Instructions

Shopping list

The following list contains all the components necessary to build a RepStrap and enough plastic to print a RepRap. Some handtools are required for assembly, but the only power tool used is a soldering iron.

Extruder and Positioning System

Bits from Bytes - FULL Mechanical Kit - Silver or Gold

Ponoko - coming soon

(only one required)

Electronics

Plastic

The extruders all use 3mm diameter plastic filament/wire. ABS is the recommended plastic for its combination of strength, availability and dimensional stability. Suitable plastic is available from RRRF in 5lb reels. It is also available by request from plasticweldingrod.com.

Total

Shipping and tax vary by country of order but $1000 total is a reasonable approximation.

MendelMax - RepRap

MendelMax

Release status: working

This article is about the MendelMax 1.x, see MendelMax 2 for its successor.

PLEASE NOTE: This is the current home for community generated documentation (Please Contribute!). The official MendelMax documentation is maintained at MendelMax.com. Please refer to that site as well.

Contents

• 1 Overview
  • 1.1 Versions
  • 1.2 Specifications
• 2 Links
• 3 Community
• 4 Files and Documentation

MendelMax (MM) is an Open Source RepRap 3D printer designed by Maxbots in December 2011. It is a true reprap, using printed brackets, but instead of using threaded rod for the structural elements it uses inexpensive aluminum extrusions. This gives a huge increase in rigidity for a minimal extra cost (Self sourcing will cost about $80 more than a standard Prusa when purchased from the recommended suppliers). The required extrusions are available world wide from a variety of suppliers.

A prototype of the MendelMax RepRap 3d Printer

MendelMax is based on the Prusa Mendel, and keeps its best parts. The Prusa Mendel kept the frame of the Sells Mendel, but fixed the problems in the X,Y and Z axes. MendelMax 1.0 builds on that by largely keeping the current XYZ axes, but completely redesigning the frame.

In addition to the increased rigidity, the printer is much easier to assemble than a standard Prusa. Even an inexperienced builder should have no trouble building the whole frame in an evening, two at most. And along with the easy assembly comes easy hackability. Almost any part on the bot can be removed with just a few screws, so swapping out literally any part on the bot is now a trivial operation.

The X axis is taken stock from the Prusa Mendel, in fact we don't even specify a specific X axis design, there are several good ones available, including the various vertically-oriented X axis designs that many people are exploring lately. As long as it sticks to the defined standard spacing between the Z rod and the Z leadscrew, it will work fine with MendelMax. We also use the standard Prusa Y design (For version 1.0), though we simplify it just a bit by making it easier to get everything aligned right. Z adds optional thrust bearings to support the weight of the axis (greatly reducing the problems with printed couplers), but this is a purely optional upgrade, and you can easily use the old design if you prefer.

Because MendelMax is primarily defining a new frame design, it is linear-bearing agnostic. I have used both LM8UU's and PTFE bushings and both work just fine. Brass or even printed bushings could be used, though I recommend avoiding the latter for highest reliability.

The current revision as of July 17 2012 shipping as kits from the official MM store is considered the MM 1.5+. It uses a linear slide for a Y axis rather than polished rods to give the heaviest axis a smoother motion and seems to have cleaned things up greatly. Also different from earlier models the steppers controlling the Z axis have been moved from the top of the printer to the base.

Versions

Specifications

These specifications are for the MendelMax 1. 5+:

• Printed Parts: very few (around 25 different parts)
• Non-Printed Parts: ???
• Printing Size: build area of about 9"x10"x7" or 23cm x 25cm x 17.5cm
• Material Cost: ???
• Cost: US$ 1,300 (complete kit)
• Precision: ??? (position), ??? (printing)
• Speed: ??? (position), ??? (printing)

• [1] MendelMax 1.5 STL Files
• [2] Maker's Tool Works MendelMax 1.5+ Build Instructions
• [3] Lots of pictures, including the assembled printer and several finished prints
• [4] 3D-PDF (View with Adobe Acrobat, most 3rd party viewers do not support 3d PDFs. Click on the image to view in full 3D, pan, zoom, rotate, etc.)

• [5] Packing list for a MendelMax 1.5 kit
• [6] MendelMax 1.5 with SCV8UU Y-Carriage
• [7] RepRapWorld - Mendelmax 1.5 Complete Kit starting at 549.99€ and parts
• [8] Blomker Industries - MendelMax 1.5 Complete Kit at $699
• [9] Ultibots - MendelMax 1. 5+ Complete Kit starting at $1199
• [10] ReprapUniverse (NL) - MendelMax 1.5 : Printed Parts €79 - Frame Kit €299 - Complete Kit €699
• 220v.biz Parts for MendelMax and other 3d printers in Ukraine
• [11] MendelMax 3D view and complete files (Spanish)
• [12] 3DMarkt.at in Austria, MendelMax 1.5 Printer Kit 659,99 EUR

• For more information, visit our FreeNode IRC channel at #MendelMax (or ask in #reprap). Please be patient, this is presently a low-volume channel so it may take a while to get responses but someone will help you as soon as possible.
• Please join our Google Group.

For 1.x:

• STL Files can be downloaded from thingiverse. RAScomRAS
• FreeCAD SCAD source files are available at the MendelMax GitHub repository.
• A full Bill of Materials (BOM) is available on Google Docs, although this is the BOM for Version 1. Vendors are typically selling parts for MM 1.5, so you will need to make some substitutions.
• Assembly instructions and lots more information are available on the MendelMax homepage.
• User submitted calibration information and tips at the Mendel Max Calibration page

For 2.0:

• See MendelMax2: Files & Documentation

Build a home 3D printer with your own hands: recommendations from personal experience

3D printing and assembly of 3D printers is my hobby and passion. Here I will not share detailed diagrams and drawings, there are more than enough of them on specialized resources. The main goal of this material is to tell you where to start, where to dig and how to avoid mistakes in the process of assembling a home 3D printer. Perhaps one of the readers will be inspired by applied engineering achievements.

Why do you need a 3D printer? Use cases

I first came across the idea of ​​3D printing back in the 90s when I was watching the Star Trek series. I remember how impressed I was by the moment when the heroes of the cult series printed the things they needed during their journey right on board their starship. They printed anything: from shoes to tools. I thought it would be great someday to have such a thing too. Then it all seemed something incredible. Outside the window are the gloomy 90s, and the Nokia with a monochrome screen was the pinnacle of progress, accessible only to a select few. nine0003

Years passed, everything changed. Around 2010, the first working models of 3D printers began to appear on sale. Yesterday's fantasy has become a reality. However, the cost of such solutions, to put it mildly, discouraged. But the IT industry would not be itself without an inquisitive community, where there is an active exchange of knowledge and experience and who just let them dig into the brains and giblets of new hardware and software. So, drawings and diagrams of printers began to surface more and more often on the Web. Today, the most informative and voluminous resource on the topic of assembling 3D printers is RepRap - this is a huge knowledge base that contains detailed guides for creating a wide variety of models of these machines. nine0003

I assembled the first printer about five years ago. My personal motivation to build my own device is quite prosaic and based on several factors. Firstly, there was an opportunity to try to realize the old dream of having your own device, inspired by a fantasy series. The second factor is that sometimes it was necessary to repair some household items (for example, a baby stroller, car elements, household appliances and other small things), but the necessary parts could not be found. Well, the third aspect of the application is "near-working". On the printer, I make cases for various IoT devices that I assemble at home. nine0003

Agree, it is better to place your device based on Raspberry Pi or Arduino in an aesthetically pleasing "body", which is not a shame to put in an apartment or take to the office, than to organize components, for example, in a plastic bowl for food. And yes, you can print parts to build other printers :)

There are a lot of scenarios for using 3D printers. I think everyone can find something of their own.

A complex part in terms of drawing that I printed on my printer. Yes, it's just a figurine, but it has many small elements

Ready solution vs custom assembly

When a technology has been tested, its value in the market decreases markedly. The same thing happened in the world of 3D printers. If earlier a ready-made solution cost simply sky-high money, then today acquiring such a machine is more humane for the wallet, but nevertheless not the most affordable for an enthusiast. There are a number of solutions already assembled and ready for home use on the market, their price range ranges from $500-700 (not the best options) to infinity (adequate solutions start from a price tag of about $1000). Yes, there are options for $150, but we, for understandable, I hope, reasons, will not dwell on them. nine0003

In short, there are three cases to consider a finished assembly:

• when you plan to print not much and rarely;
• when print accuracy is critical;
• you need to print molds for mass production of parts.

There are several obvious advantages to self-assembly. The first and most important is cost. Buying all the necessary components will cost you a maximum of a couple of hundred dollars. In return, you will receive a complete 3D printing solution with the quality of manufactured products acceptable for domestic needs. The second advantage is that by assembling the printer yourself, you will understand the principles of its design and operation. Believe me, this knowledge will be useful to you during the operation of even an expensive ready-made solution - any 3D printer needs to be serviced regularly, and it can be difficult to do this without understanding the basics. nine0003

The main disadvantage of assembly is the need for a large amount of time. I spent about 150 hours on my first build.

What you need to assemble the printer yourself

The most important thing here is the presence of desire. As for any special skills, then, by and large, in order to assemble your first printer, the ability to solder or write code is not critical. Of course, understanding the basics of radio electronics and basic skills in the field of mechanics (that is, "straight hands") will greatly simplify the task and reduce the amount of time that needs to be spent on assembly. nine0003

Also, to start we need a mandatory set of parts:

• Extruder is the element that is directly responsible for printing, the print head. There are many options on the market, but for a budget build, I recommend the MK8. Of the minuses: it will not be possible to print with plastics that require high temperatures, there is noticeable overheating during intensive work, which can damage the element. If the budget allows, then you can look at MK10 - all the minuses are taken into account there. nine0032
• Processor board. The familiar Arduino Mega is well suited. I didn't notice any downsides to this solution, but you can spend a couple of dollars more and get something more powerful, with a reserve for the future.
• Control board. I'm using RAMPS 1.4 which works great with the Arduino Mega. A more expensive but more reliable board is Shield, which already combines a processor board and a control board. In modern realities, I recommend paying attention to it. In addition to it, you need to purchase at least 5 microstep stepper motor controllers, for example - A4988. And it's better to have a couple of these in stock for replacement.
• Heated table. This is the part where the printed element will be located. Heating is necessary due to the fact that most plastics will not adhere to a cold surface. For example, for printing with PLA plastic, the required surface temperature of the table is 60-80°C, for ABS - 110-130°C, and for polycarbonate it will be even higher
  There are also two options for choosing a table - cheaper and more expensive. Cheaper options are essentially printed circuit boards with preheated wiring. To operate on this type of table, you will need to put borosilicate glass, which will scratch and crack during operation. Therefore, the best solution is an aluminum table. nine0032
• Stepper motors. Most models, including the i2 and i3, use NEMA 17 size motors, two for the Z axis and one each for the X and Y axes. Finished extruders usually come with their own stepper motor. It is better to take powerful motors with a current in the motor winding of 1A or more, so that there is enough power to lift the extruder and print without skipping steps at high speed.
• Basic set of plastic fasteners.
• Belt and gears to drive it. nine0051