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Best 3d printer kit under 1000


Best 3D printers under $1,000 in 2022

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Written By Gabriel Morgan

Updated Jul 13, 2022 12:30 PM

Load up the filament, transfer your slices … the best 3D printers under $1,000 have all the tools that most makers will need to give form to their visions. You might be a hobbyist separately printing and carefully-painting each gargantuan wing of the great gold-dragon for your next D&D campaign. Maybe you’re printing a grip for your old film camera to make it more comfortable to hold. Or perhaps you’re creating a custom prop for a photoshoot for much less than the cost of buying it. Whatever your aims, 3D printers at the sub $1000 price point should give you enough power to achieve them. If you want to go even cheaper, you can check out the best 3D printers for kids.

This article focuses on 3D printers at the high-hundreds price-point, that still hover below $1000. At this price point 3D printers get quite capable, delivering some really great features like auto-leveling trays, blistering extruders capable of working with wider sets of materials (such as nylon), extremely high-resolution resin prints, air-filtration, quieter operation, better-connectivity, and dual extruders. Read on for a look at some of the best 3D printers under $1000, and just what it is that makes them so.

  • Best overall: R QIDI X-Plus
  • Best resin: ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X 6K
  • Best dual extruder: BIBO 3D Printer Dual Extruder
  • Best kit: Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit
  • Best budget: Creality Ender-3 S1

3D printers are stuffed full of tech, from their blistering-hot extruders, to their auto leveling trays, to WiFi, and 4k+ LCD arrays for curing liquid resin, Even the Bowden mechanism that’s often used to channel filament comes from an important invention for bicycle construction. With so many mechanical inventions and systems crammed into one device, 3D printers are inherently technical. Because of this, it’s a good idea to familiarize yourself with some parts of how the technology works before you buy. 

With the first functional 3D printers built in the 1980s, 3D printers didn’t begin to pervade the mass market until the 2000s. While a few inventors and scientists were concurrently working on different elements of technology that would be incorporated into the 3D printer systems of today, Bill Masters was the first inventor who filed a 3D printer patent. 

The inventor was camping on the banks of the Chattanooga river one night, staring up at the stars, when the idea came to him. He imagined using one star as a seed point, and then combining the other dots of starlight to create any shape he liked. His analogy for the additive manufacturing process that defines FDM printers of now, is great, likening the tech to “spit wads,” similar to the ones so many children familiarize themselves with at a day in the mall, “When you shoot a lot of wads, they begin to take shape. If you can control the direction of the wads and the motion of the device shooting them, you can produce any desired shape.” We love it.

3D Printer types

While there are numerous classes of 3D printers, there are three main families. These are fused deposition modeling (FDM), stereolithography (SLA), and selective laser sintering (SLS). Selective laser sintering uses a laser to fuse powdered material, which is distributed across a bed with a roller. SLS printers are capable of delivering strong functional prints that are sturdy enough for immediate incorporation into manufactured systems. However, the SLS process is very expensive, and is out of reach for most DIY tinkerers. At the sub-$1000 price point, this article focuses on FDM and SLA printers.

Fused deposition modeling

FDM printers are the most common and economical 3D printers on the market. These printers use a superheated nozzle to extrude filament downward onto a heated, leveled tray, building the model up slice-by-slice. FDM printers are suitable for quick prototyping, proof of concepts, and finished projects, and tend to be more economical and user-friendly. FDM printers usually also deliver a greater build area than SLA printers for the price.

Thermoplastics in FDM printers

FDM printers create objects out of thermoplastics. These common plastics have chemical properties that allow them to melt, form into a shape, and then melt again. These plastics are inherently recyclable, and many are quite cheap. The most common thermoplastics used in FDM printers include ABS, PLA, PETG, and TPU. Some also print nylon, and more. 

These thermoplastics have different properties, some are food safe, while others are biodegradable, others are non-toxic for skin contact. However, the manner in which thermoplastic deposits fuse is primarily mechanical, rather than chemical, which runs the risk of leaving voids (or open spaces) in the walls of the print, which leads to inferior structural integrity on the Z axis.

Stereolithography

SLA printers use a different process from FDM printers, whereby a laser, or LCD array cures resin in a liquid resin bath, and extrudes it upwards slice by slice. These printers fuse the print onto a heated tray, and lifts it, upside-down, from the liquid resin. They are capable of printing parts and models with greater structural integrity and detail. Because of their high print resolution, SLA printers are the go-to for most hobbyists looking to build intricate models and figurines.

Thermosets in SLA printers

SLA printers use thermosetting plastics (thermosets). These resins cure into shape, and cannot be heated to dissolve, rather, heat causes their decomposition. This means that thermosets are not recyclable. However, the curing process of resins give them superior structural integrity to thermoplastics, as the plastic chemically fuses, creating covalent bonds between molecules. These resins achieve prints with better detail, resolution, and strength. Thermoset variety is also wide, including clear resins, wiggly resins, high temp resins, and even dental grade resins. 

How we picked the best 3D printers under $1,000

Methodology

Because there’s so much that goes into great 3D printers there were a lot of features to factor when we were researching the five best. We researched numerous printers from multiple manufacturers, looking for the best feature sets, wherein all parts collaborate for a gestalt of function that’s the most useful for the makers of today. Along the way we looked for a few specific features which we detailed below:

Versatility is always nice. At the mid-level price point below $1000, we start seeing FDM printers that are capable of nylon and some more advanced thermoplastics. We also start seeing SLA printers that are capable of more. We noted this wherever it stood out.

Tray functions are so important to overall printer quality. We looked for printers with trays that get hot enough to keep your models well-secured. We also looked for printers that have auto-leveling functionality, or at least excellent semi-auto leveling. 

Extruder & LCD (or laser) quality is extremely important for 3D printing. Extruder quality plays a big role in which thermoplastics the printer can handle. Great extruders get hot, and are light enough to work well with the system. Different extruder dimensions also play into their use for different situations. Some systems even use two extruders. For SLA systems the LCD array (or laser) is extremely important in getting good print resolution and smooth forms. 

Overall precision is achieved through lots of factors, but we like to see FDM printers with a multi-column lift system. We looked for FDM printers that don’t leave lines, burrs, or slice edges visible on the sides of the print. We also looked for SLA printers that yield high-res prints with smooth curves.

Connectivity & slicing software can define the quality of your print experience just as much as some of the more mechanical components of your system. Wireless connection is always nice, and printers with a few gigabytes of internal storage also offer a boon. Compatibility with lots of slicing software or one especially good one is also important and we noted this.

User experience and assembly also cannot be overlooked. Some printers get loud — we mean infernal giant-water-bears crawling from the pit sort-of loud (do water-bears roar?). Where we found printers that deal well with sound and fumes, we highlighted them. We also noted the required assembly of each printer. Some want highly customizable printers that might require longer assembly but are capable of modding, but not all do.

The best 3D printers under $1,000: Reviews & Recommendations

Best overall: R QIDI X-Plus

Why It Made The Cut: An FDM printer with easily-serviceable standard parts, an optional auxiliary-extruder that enables it to print more technical materials, and outstanding customer service.  

Specs:

  • Print technology: FDM
  • Build size: 10.6 x 7.9 x 7.9 inches
  • Supported materials: PLA, TPU, PETG, ABS, Nylon, PC, Carbon fiber, and more
  • Best slicer software: QIDI Print Slicer (included free)

Pros

  • Second extruder for technical-material free upon request
  • Excellent customer service and support
  • Very easy assembly & simple repair
  • High res-smooth prints

Cons

  • Manual bed leveling
  • Wifi issues with non-QIDI software

Something of a plug-and-play machine, the R QIDI X-Plus is a highly capable FDM printer that has an expanded range of materials, possible via a free supplementary extruder. With easily repaired standard parts, and great customer support, it’s an easy best-overall choice for most.

Shipped from China, the semi-enclosed X-Plus takes hardly any set up. It comes with a standard extruder suitable for PLA, ABS, and TPU. A second technical-material extruder is also available with your purchase free-of-charge by request (which belies the companies communication-forward ethos), and is capable of materials like Nylon, PC, Carbon fiber, and more. To be clear, this second extruder is swappable, rather than supplementary, this isn’t a dual-extruder rig, and the second extruder won’t work in tandem with the standard. However, the technical nozzle is a nice touch, that firmly differentiates this machine from cheaper FDM’s in the sub-$500 price range. 

QIDI is all about customer support and easy repairs. Not only are the majority of the parts in this system standard and easily replaceable, but the majority of replacements are also easy to DIY, with included tools for most hardware in the system. QIDI offers exceptional customer service, with knowledgeable agents ready to send you repair parts as needed, and help troubleshoot issues.

While the X-Plus doesn’t have the automatic leveling you might like at this price point, it does have a semi-auto, single-point quick-level system that is reliable and easy. It features QIDI Print Slicer software, that’s free to use with any QIDI system All-in-all, while this system might not be as appealing to hardcore tinkerers as some, those who want consistent quality with easy set-up, good customer support, and a wider than average range of available materials will love it. 

Best Resin: ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X 6K

Why It Made The Cut: 6K LCDs mean better resolution than ever, with more detail and contrast, more build volume, and faster speeds.

Specs:

  • Print technology: SLA
  • Build size: 9.6 x 7.8 x 4.8 inches
  • Supported materials: Resin
  • Best slicer software: Anycubic Photon Workshop (free), ChiTuBox, Lychee, more

Pros

  • Extreme print detail and resolution
  • Great contrast
  • Fast, at up to 1s / layer in some instances
  • Great out of the box prints

Cons

  • Poor connectivity options
  • Very smelly

6K — that’s a lot of LCDs, and the ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X 6K leverages them all for extremely high-resolution prints with impeccable contrast. ANYCUBIC is one of the most popular lines of SLA resin printers, and the Photon Mono X is one of the most impressive dogs in the pack. 

With its 6K LCDs the Photon Mono X 6K uses an 9.25 inch monochrome LCD array, with 6% light transmittance, which means quicker printing. The machine is fast, and ANYCUBIC brags up to 1s / layer, in ideal circumstances. Its LCD’s deliver extreme contrast that’s noticeable, and the model sports a much larger build area than its cousins, at 9.6 x 7.8 x 4.8 inches.

ANYCUBIC is compatible with lots of the great slicer software packs, from ChiTuBox, to Lychee, and offers the proprietary Anycubic Photon Workshop free of charge. Sadly, getting your slices to the printer is more difficult than it could be, as the printer’s Wifi is notoriously spotty. It’s built around its LCD screen control and SD card reader, meaning SD is the best way-to-play. Those who like to keep their SLA printer on a well ventilated back porch will appreciate not having to keep their printer connected to a laptop, but those who want to set up a printer farm might groan. Otherwise, it’s a great buy, offering some of the best quality resin prints out there.

Best dxtruder: BIBO 3D Printer Dual Extruder

Why It Made The Cut: Solid dual extruder support means lots of techniques you can’t get at with other FDM printers, plus WiFi and a touchscreen make it easy to use.

Specs:

  • Print technology: FDM
  • Build size: 8.4 x 7.3 x 6.3 inches
  • Supported materials: ABS, PLA, Dissolvable filament (PVA, HIPS), TPU, PETG, Nylon, PC, Carbon fiber, and more
  • Best slicer software: Repetier-Host, Cura, Simplify3D 

Pros

  • Dual extruders
  • Minimal easy assembly
  • Wifi control
  • Good customer support

Cons

  • Difficult maintenance and usability
  • Bed isn’t easy to level

If you’re moving up from a basic machine, the BIBO 3D’s dual extruders can open doors you didn’t even know were closed. These include printing dissolvable supports, printing with multiple colors, and 3D printing two duplicate objects simultaneously. But these dual extruders aren’t the BIBO 3D’s only bargaining chip. 

BIBO 3D does a good job with a wider range of materials. Beyond the standards like ABS and PLA, it prints more technical thermoplastics like flexible nylon, and carbon fiber. The system uses an easy touch-screen control panel to set up prints, and can also be controlled via Wifi, meaning you can control it from your phone. 

The machine does have a couple of blindspots. Its leveling control isn’t as intuitive as you would expect at the price point. The machine is also packed tight with features, with screws in odd places, and somewhat abstract engineering overall. These issues are offset by great customer service from the company, but they do make the machine’s usability somewhat less optimal than some of the competition. It’s a great option for tinkerers who want extra extruders and wider material possibilities, but in spite of its initial assembly, it may be more hands on than some want.

Best kit: Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit

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Why It Made The Cut: Taking a DIY ethos all the way, the Prusa i3 kit is open-sourced and powerful, with a state-of-the-art-extruder, exceptional leveling, wide filament support and more.

Specs:

  • Print technology: FDM
  • Build size: 9.84 × 8.3 × 8.3 inches
  • Supported materials: PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS, PC (Polycarbonate), CPE, PVA / BVOH, PVB, HIPS, PP (Polypropylene), Flex, nGen, Nylon, Carbon filled, Woodfill
  • Best slicer software: PrusaSlicer (proprietary), open source

Pros

  • Mesh bed leveling details leveling for every print
  • Excellent extruder that can handle an extra wide set of features
  • Open source with strong user base for help with all sorts of mods and use cases
  • Easy to remove prints

Cons

  • Kit requires detailed and rigorous assembly
  • Long lead-times for production, allow weeks before it arrives

You can’t get far into 3D printing turf without hearing the name Prusa, and it’s not hard to see why with the Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit (an assembled version is also available for a couple hundred more). This kit is a DIY maker’s dream, including some of the best tools in its class for 3D printing. 

There’s a few things that make the Prusa i3 special, but we’ll start with its basics. It features a state-of-the-art extruder, as well as an excellent filament monitor. The extruder can handle a much wider than average set of filaments, including the standards, as well as nice additions such as woodfill, and abrasive nylon carbon-fiber. The printer also features an excellent fully automatic bed-leveling system that checks your bed before every print. If that’s not enough, its removable spring steel-sheets make it easy to extract your finished print.

In the end the Prusa i3 is one of the best options out there at the under $1000 price-point, and debatably beats out our top overall pick, the R QIDI X-Plus. However, for the Prusa to reach its full potential this machine requires an operator and builder who rejoices in getting through the weeds that are a major part of its construction, and making it out the other side. This is a printer for tinkerers and DIY makers, and when it’s well understood and loved, it can do wonders.

Best budget: Creality Ender-3 S1

Why It Made The Cut: Markedly more affordable than the rest of the printers on this list, the Ender-3 offers some pro level prototyping features, in an upgradeable build that’s priced for beginners.

Specs:

  • Print technology: FDM
  • Build size: 8.6 x 8.6 x 10.2 inches
  • Supported materials: PLA, TPU, PETG, ABS
  • Best slicer software: Open source (No preferred), Cura, Simplify3D, PrusaSlicer

Pros

  • Open sourced and upgradeable
  • Very precise extruder with dual lift
  • 16 point auto level
  • Easy assembly

Cons

  • Loud prints
  • Limited feature set compared to more expensive options

Our pick for the best 3d printer under 500, the Creality Ender-3 S1 is still worth a look, even if your possible budget could maybe allow for something pricier. Alongside Prusa, Creality’s Ender series is ever recognizable, and potentially the best known series for beginners. This open-source and expandable system gives you more room to print with than some systems that cost twice as much. With an extruder that hits 500 degrees Fahrenheit it’s also not that restrictive in comparison. Sure it won’t take care of more technical materials, but it does better than most, and if you’re new that might not matter.

One of the S1’s standout features is a 16 point auto-leveling system that makes sure your print bed is up to the challenge every time, it also features a removable spring steel-plate, a power-loss recovery feature, and a filament sensor. It delivers solid precision, with a dual-motor design.

While the S1 doesn’t have some of the top features found in models that retail closer to $1000, it’s still an exceptional hobbyist’s 3D printer that’s capable of doing a lot. It’s a great foundation that can be expanded on significantly with mods.

FAQs

Q: Which type of 3D printing is the cheapest?

FDM, or fused deposition modeling 3D printers are usually the cheapest, both in terms of up front cost and the cost to replenish their filament over time. They use an additive manufacturing process whereby they apply layers of molten thermoplastics onto a heated tray.

Q: What is the best 3D printer under 1000?

The best 3D printer under $1000 for most users is the R QIDI X-Plus. Arriving pre-assembled, this partially enclosed FDM printer is easily serviceable, precise, good for high-quality prints, and is capable of printing a wide array of filaments. QIDI also delivers great customer support.

Q: Which brand 3D printer is best?

There are lots of great 3D printer brands. Creality does a great job with powerful hobbyist printers for affordable prices. Prusa makes incredible open sourced printers with some of the best tech around. QIDI is known for precise, easy to use printers with excellent customer support. ANYCUBIC makes exceptional high-res SLA printers. ELEGOO also makes wonderful SLA printers. The best brand is the brand that brings the feature set you need.

Q: Is it profitable to buy a 3D printer?

As with any craft business, 3D printer craft can turn a good profit, however, how profitable it will be will depend upon your business practices. Before you invest in a business based on a 3D printer, consider all the factors that will contribute to your business.

Q: Can 3D printers can be acquired for less than 1000?

Yes, there are many excellent printers that can be acquired for under 1000. There are even some good ones that cost less than $200.

Q: Do you need a computer for a 3D printer?

In some form, you do need a computer for a 3D printer. However, some work-arounds are possible. If you want to buy a 3D printer and can’t afford a computer as well, consider downloading files from your library or school computer and using an SD card to print them on your 3D printer at home.

Q: Is an enclosed 3D printer better?

In some instances enclosed 3D printers are better. Many enclosed 3D printers come preassembled and are easy for beginners to plug in and get started with. Also, 3D printers can emit harmful fumes and light. Most SLA printers, which use bright curing LCDs and / or lasers, feature a UV shield. FDM printers can also benefit from the protection and structural integrity that enclosures provide.

Final thoughts regarding the best 3D printers under $1,000

With so many features and advanced processes spun into one functional system, the best 3D printers under $1000 offer astounding feats of engineering, synergized to work together, to bring wildly powerful tools of creation into your workshop. They are used by everyone from design firms who might be prototyping a new invention, to hobbyists building a fleet of figurines. For the best DIY maker’s tool in its class, we recommend the Original Prusa i3 MK3S+ kit. If you’re looking for top notch resolution, you can’t go wrong with the ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X 6K, which is the best SLA 3D printer at its price point. If you want something that’s a little on the cheaper side, the Creality Ender-3 S1 is the best for beginners, and offers a large build space and solid tools. Finally, if ease of use is your prerogative, we recommend the R QIDI X-Plus, as the best overall 3D printer for most users — it might not offer as much tweakage potential as the Prusa i3, but with the X-Plus you’ll be printing great materials within two hours of the package arriving at your door.

The 10 Best 3D Printers Under $1000 (2022 Update) – Clever Creations

Intended use

Before getting a 3D printer, you must have a clear idea about its intended use. How are you going to use it? What’s the primary purpose? Is it for educational use, professional use, or just for hobby? Where do you plan to use your 3D printer? In your home, office, garage, or school? These are the questions you need to ask to narrow down your options.

If you’re a beginner or need a 3D printer for kids or educational purposes, focusing on ease of use and safety should be your primary focus. 3D printers like the Flashforge Dreamer, QIDI Tech X-Plus, and the Dremel Digilab 3D20 will be the best 3D printers under 1000 for your use case.

On the other hand, if you are looking for features such as a high-temp hot end, a heated bed, wide material compatibility, and dual extruders, you are better off focusing on a professional high-quality printing experience. In such cases, you should consider the Flashforge Creator Pro 2, Prusa i3MK3S+, or the Matterhackers Pulse XE.

FDM or resin

FDM and resin 3D printers are drastically different in terms of materials, machine setup, workflow, and applications.

Fused deposition modeling (FDM) 3D printers use a solid plastic filament that is melted and deposited, one layer at a time.  It’s relatively easy to use and learn, compatible with various materials, and can be used in schools or home environments. You have the advantage of a huge build volume with these machines. However, the quality of FDM 3D printers is comparatively lower than resin ones.

Resin 3D printers are known for their superior quality and smooth surface finish. They use a photosensitive 3D printer resin and cure it with a UV light source, typically that of a UV curing station. It’s mainly suited for applications that require a higher level of detail, surface finish, and precision. For example, if you want to 3D print miniatures, dental models, jewelry, and molds, you are much better off with a resin 3D printer.

The downside of a resin 3D printer is its messy operation due to the resin, expensive material costs, and post-processing of the printed parts. Add to that a relatively small build volume, and you’re limited to smaller-sized objects only. If quality is not the absolute criteria, and you can get away with slight blemishes here and there, an FDM 3D printer is a better option.

Build quality

A well-built 3D printer will deliver high-quality, consistent, and reliable 3D prints. 3D printers under $1000 give manufacturers enough room to go beyond the basic materials and use high-end materials, like a metal frame, to improve the build quality of their 3D printers.

3D printers like the Prusa i3, Matterhackers Pulse XE, Flashforge Creator Pro 2 have a solid metal frame and are built to last. The build quality on these machines is top-notch, and as a result, they can deliver high-quality prints for a long time.

High-quality components not only deliver excellent quality but are also more reliable in terms of performance and durability. If long-term reliability is your priority and you want to reduce your downtime, maintenance, and other 3D printing costs, the build quality should be on the top of your list while considering buying a 3D printer.

Features

3D printers under $1000 are more than just basic 3D printers with minimal features. As mentioned above, this budget gives manufacturers more flexibility. Aside from better materials, this also means more and better features in the machine.

For example, many 3D printers in this category come with basic safety features. For example, an enclosed design, an air filtration system, a top-cover sensor (Anycubic Mono X), and the use of high-quality components promise safe operation and reduce the risk of any accidents.

To avoid getting unsuccessful 3D prints, features like resume printing and filament run-out detection come into play. The resume printing feature helps you resume your print in case of a power failure. And the filament sensor will notify you if the 3D printer runs out of filament. Both these features come in handy during long hours of 3D printing.

You also need to consider the user interface and the workflow of your 3D printer. How intuitive is it to use? Is there any touchscreen, or is it an LCD screen with hardware buttons? If you’re looking for a printer for kids or students, the best 3D printer might be one with an intuitive, user-friendly interface.

Build volume

The build volume of a 3D printer dictates the size of the objects that you can 3D print. If you want to print larger-sized objects, a resin 3D printer will be of little help. You will be better off with an FDM printer that offers ample space.

The Creality CR-10 S5 is our recommendation for the largest 3D printer under $1000, with a build volume of 500 x 500 x 500 mm. To put things in perspective, that’s more than enough space to 3D print a full-sized helmet at once.

But if you’re planning on using the 3D printer for educational purposes, or for printing miniatures and figurines, you can get away with a smaller-sized 3D printer. It’ll help you save some costs, or you can choose some other features which are more important to you.

Print speed

Print speed directly affects productivity and your 3D printing experience. If you’re buying a 3D printer for home use or basic hobby purposes, it is likely to not affect you that greatly. But if you’re considering purchasing a 3D printer for your print farm, office, or professional use, printing speed is an essential parameter that dictates your 3D printing output.

A fast 3D printing speed will give you quicker outputs and reduce turnaround times. You will be able to reiterate your designs faster and make the necessary changes at a much faster pace.

To that extent, resin 3D printers have a higher printing speed when compared to FDM ones. Even if you fill up the entire build plate, each layer will take 2-3 seconds to cure. This can come in handy when 3D printing lots of jewelry pieces or miniatures at once.

FDM 3D printers are comparatively slower. Each object you add to the build plate adds extra 3D printing time. Some FDM printers are faster than others. If speed is your priority, the Prusa i3 MK3S+ and Pulse XE offer decent speeds at 200+ mm/s travel speed and offer a printing speed of up to 60-80 mm/s.

Alternatively, you might want to consider a CoreXY 3D printer kit. CoreXY printers have relatively little moving mass due to their stationary motors and are able to achieve high print speeds without sacrificing print quality.

Material compatibility

Material compatibility is one of the primary things to look for when getting a 3D printer. A 3D printer under $1000 offers more flexibility in terms of materials than a 3D printer under $300 does. Except for the Digilab 3D20 and the resin 3D printers, all others have a heated print bed that extends the number of materials that can be 3D printed with.

With 3D printers like the Pulse XE and the QIDI Tech X Plus, which offer a heated print bed and a high-temperature hot end, you can go beyond the basic materials and print with Nylon, Carbon fiber, and Polycarbonate filaments. There is also the Flashforge Creator Pro 2, which lets you 3D print with two materials at once and use soluble supports.

Wide material compatibility will let you utilize your 3D printer in many more applications. You can choose whether to use it only with the basic filaments or use advanced materials without having to change components when the need arises.

As a beginner I bought a 3D printer.

Choosing, setting up, problems and solving practical problems / Sudo Null IT News

A few months ago, I was thinking about purchasing such a device because I wanted to print a broken part of my robot vacuum cleaner. About a month ago I bought a device I liked on eBay. That's what was important to me when choosing a 3D printer.

Which printer was needed?

Considering that I knew almost nothing about 3D printers (except for a few articles read here, on Habré), the important points were:

  • Printer performance out of the box. I have seen several articles describing how long it takes to set up a "simple Chinese printer". It needs to be assembled from a large number of parts, and it is not a fact that there will not be defective ones among them. Once assembled, you can mess around with the device for a couple of days, and then it turns out that for some reason it does not work. In short, I needed a printer that didn't need to be assembled and that could work right out of the box.
  • It shouldn't be too expensive. Seriously, I'm new, I was not sure that after a couple of days I would not abandon the device. And a printer for 500-600 euros would be too expensive a toy. So I was willing to spend a couple of hundred, no more.
  • It must not be too large. Before buying, I allocated a little space for installing the printer, somewhere around 50 * 50 cm. Therefore, the printer had to stand on the allocated area without any problems.
  • It shouldn't be too difficult to maintain. This point is closely related to the first. I didn’t want to spend a lot of time on operation and maintenance work - there is sorely not enough time, so constantly eliminating emerging glitches is not an option.
  • I wanted to get a printer with WiFi, it was not critical, but important.

What did I end up buying?

Model Geeetech E180. It was shown by Google after the query “3D printer for beginners”. There were other models in the search results, but this one was liked by the design and the presence of WiFi.

The developers of this printer raised money for it with the help of Kickstarter and a couple of years ago it appeared on the free market. Its price is from 200 to 350 euros, depending on the company that sells it and the store.

Bought on eBay, starting price was 200 euros, but the seller agreed to drop 50 euros, so the total price is 150.

Printer specifications:

  • Print technology: FDM
  • Working space dimensions: 130 x 130 x 130 mm
  • Printing accuracy: 0.05 mm
  • Positioning accuracy: X / Y 0.11 mm, Z 0.0025 mm
  • Print speed: 80-110 mm/s
  • Thread diameter: 1.75 mm
  • Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
  • Supported material: PLA declared by the manufacturer, but can work with other materials
  • Operating system: Windows
  • Management software: EasyPrint 3D
  • File format: . STL, G-code
  • Maximum extruder temperature: 230 °C
  • Power supply: DC 12V 6A
  • Connectivity: WiFi, USB, TF card (offline printing support)
  • Display: 3.2" full color touchscreen
  • Chassis: metal plate + injection molding (portable console 3D printer)
  • Work table:
    • aluminum alloy plate
  • XYZ Rods: wear resistant, stainless steel screw and lead (Z axis)
  • Stepper motors: 1.8 degree stepped angle with 1/16 micro stepping

Unpacking and setup

Before setting up, I looked at several reviews and tests of the printer. If not for them, I would not have done it myself, the explanation in the instructions is slurred. The setup is simple, but not for a beginner.

The printer "wound up" as soon as I connected it to power and a laptop. I calibrated the position of the table - it turned out to be simple - inserted a microSD card into the slot, found the contents through the menu on the printer screen, inserted the fiber into the channel and started printing. The printer made a noise and started printing. Or rather, I thought that he started typing, in fact it was not so.

Problems

The printhead moved, the temperature reached 205 degrees Celsius, but there was almost no plastic - in the first few seconds, a few plastic “hairs” came out and that was it. The printer continued to work, but the plastic was not squeezed out of the head.

I wasted several Saturday hours trying to figure out why. I tried to look for an explanation on the net, but solutions to similar problems did not suit me.

The joy of buying disappeared in the first couple of hours of fuss. I wanted a printer that “just works”, but it didn’t work out. As a result, I realized that the fiber was not being fed - the feed mechanism hidden under the plastic cover simply did not work. It did not work because the constituent elements did not rotate. There was no movement at all.

I have decided that the printer has a defective electric motor that is responsible for feeding, and I cannot repair it. The next step is to click the Return to Seller button on eBay. After clicking the button and describing the problem, I decided to pack the printer for shipping. Before sealing it in a foam box, just in case, I decided to carefully examine those “insides” that are visible through the holes in the case.

And the reason was immediately found - the assembler at the factory simply forgot to connect the power supply to the engine. Seriously, the cable just dangled inside the case. I connected it to the right connector with tweezers without disassembling the printer. Then I turned on the device again and this time everything was fine, the plastic feed worked as it should.

Then a few more minor problems arose:

  • Misaligned table. This caused the table to skew and the print head was pressed against the surface in one place. As a result, the plastic could not be squeezed out of the head, which led to solid print defects;
  • Unable to directly print models downloaded from the Internet. Being a beginner, I thought that everything works like with a regular printer - I downloaded a document, sent it to print. It turns out that slicing is also needed. I will not repeat what it is and why it needs to be perfectly described in this article on Habré;
  • Slicers are not compatible with the printer model. The slicer needs to set the printer desktop size. Some slicers for some reason did not want to work with the dimensions of my printer (13*13*13 cm). Some even crashed (including the printer's native application), some did not "understand" the dimensions. As a result, I settled on ideaMaker;
  • No WiFi. As it turned out, there are two varieties of E180 - one with an integrated WiFi module, the second - without a module, you need to buy it in addition. At the seller, the inscription "need a separate module" was applied to one of the photos of the printer, small and in French (everything else was in English). Not a scam, but close to it. The module decided not to buy more, it is not really needed;
  • Long printing time. I thought it would take several tens of minutes to print. I was not ready for the fact that large models can be printed for 6-8 hours. This is my own fault - I did not carefully look at the reviews.

Practical use

I didn’t buy a printer for a game, I wanted to get a device that would allow me to create things I need in everyday life, and not run to the store. Before buying, I outlined what I wanted to create:
The lever for separating the water tank in the iRobot Scooba robot vacuum cleaner, the repair review of which I published on Habré. His native pen broke, he did not want to spend money on buying a new one (they are relatively rare, since Scooba is no longer produced and expensive).

Finally found a suitable model on Thingiverse and printed it. To my surprise, everything fell into place the first time, the pen still works quite normally (it's been about a month since this part was printed).

Chinese electron microscope stand. I needed it for soldering small parts. I do not want to buy a professional microscope for 400 euros, since I myself do not do repairs very often. A Chinese microscope connected to a laptop is quite an option. But his native tripod is just terrible. Therefore, I wanted to make a new, normal one with my own hands.

Soldering iron stand. I just need a comfortable stand that won't let the soldering iron fall off, like from a Chinese stand that I once bought.

Paste tube squeezer. Yes, the thing is not the most necessary, but practical.

iPhone stand. Convenient, there is a hole for the cable, sound amplification.

Toys for children. Why buy another small doll or dollhouse piece when some things can just be printed out?

Stylus for Nintendo DS Lite. I had a game console bought at a flea market for a long time. The stylus was lost and I (and my daughter) played using the PDA stylus. Recently I found a stylus model for the console, printed it out - it turned out perfectly. It fits into the connector like a factory one.

Extractor for printed parts stuck to the table. Nearly all parts stick to the printer's desktop backing. You can’t do without a special device - an ordinary knife will scratch and cut a special sticker. I found a model that is compatible with the blades of a standard utility knife - works great.

The printer lived up to my expectations. It was possible to print almost everything that is indicated above. All these things fulfill their purpose, and most importantly, I am not afraid that any of them may fail. You can always print a new one.

There are a lot of ready-made models on the net. If you need some detail or thing, in 90% of cases you can find everything you need.

Troublesome little things

Printed parts are far from perfect. In some cases, deformation of some elements occurs and it is necessary to “finish” manually, using a knife and, in fact, a file. It doesn't happen that often, but I wish the printed part didn't need to be reworked (yes, I know you can get it by buying a professional 3D printer).

Sometimes details are printed, but for some reason the real and declared size do not match. So, I tried several times to print different dispensers for AA and AAA batteries, but for some reason the ready-made dispensers did not fit. The diameter of the holes into which the batteries are inserted was always somewhat smaller than the diameter of the batteries themselves. I still do not understand whether the problem is on my part, or the model is problematic. As a solution, you can simply increase the scale of the part in the slicer, by 10 percent. But it’s a pity for the spent plastic - after all, you can find out whether a quality part will turn out or not only after a solid part of it is ready.

It takes a long time to print a part. Some printouts take hours to complete, so making a simple car phone stand can take half a day.

In order to develop something of your own, you need knowledge of CAD , at least at an elementary level. Otherwise, you will have to look for ready-made objects on sites that host models created by someone. In the end, I never found a battery cover for one of the remotes. I am not able to develop it myself - there is almost no time to master CAD.

My printer desktop is small . Not all objects that I would like to print can be implemented. In particular, I wanted to get a different microscope stand model. But it did not work out, because it is larger than the printer table. The same problem with the handle of a robot vacuum cleaner (not the one in the photo, another one).

Fin

Am I satisfied, as a beginner, with the printer? Yes very. It met my expectations almost completely. True, it must be borne in mind that I got the printer relatively inexpensively. If I had bought it for, say, 300-400 euros, I would have been less satisfied with the purchase. The main thing is that with the help of a 3D printer you can solve practical problems, this is far from just a toy. The opinion about the “toy” had to be heard from many.

Well, now the question is - what useful for everyday life or work do you print on your printers?

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