3D printer print quality comparison

The Best Cheap 3D Printers for 2022

While we'd hesitate to call 3D printing a mature technology, you might say it has reached its teenage years. Through their first decade-and-change, 3D printers have come down in price, grown easier to set up and operate, and become more reliable. And you may pay less than you expect: Many once-high-end features have migrated down to inexpensive models.

PC Labs has been reviewing 3D printers since 2013. Today, the state of 3D printing is strong, but that wasn’t always the case. For the first several years, it was often an adventure getting one of these printers up and running, let alone successfully through our testing regimen. Issues with filament-based—aka fused filament fabrication (FFF) or fused deposition modeling (FDM)—printers were abundant.

Filament feeders had to be coaxed into delivering filament from the spool to the extruder. Print beds had to be manually aligned. The extruder or hot end had to be positioned just right to minimize the gap between the nozzle and the build plate (the flat surface on which the object is printed). Objects frequently stuck to the build plate, and required careful, sometimes unsuccessful, efforts to pry them off. These and other issues required painstaking effort to resolve, often combined with calls to tech support.

Not so much anymore. While they can still be rebellious at times, 3D printers have grown up a lot, and achieving the 3D printer basics has gotten a lot less likely to end in a shouting match over small things. And they've gotten a lot more affordable, too, for curious DIY-ers and hobbyists to try.

If you're in the market for a beginner or low-cost 3D printer, it's important to know how lower-end models differ. Read on for mini-reviews of the top budget 3D printers we've tested. After that, we go into more detail on understanding the 3D printer specs and tech relevant to beginning buyers. Ready to take the plunge? Read on.

Original Prusa Mini

Best Overall Budget 3D Printer

4.5 Outstanding

Bottom Line:

It requires assembly and calibration care (plus shipping from the Czech Republic), but the Original Prusa Mini is a compact, open-frame 3D printer that consistently produces superb-quality output for a great price.

PROS

Top-notch object quality
Supports a variety of filament types
Useful, professionally printed user guide
Great support resources
Versatile, user-friendly software

CONS

First-layer calibration can be tricky
Only includes starter packets of filament
Requires monitoring if young children or pets are around

Sold By	List Price	Price
Prusa Research	$399.00	$399.00	See It (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Original Prusa Mini Review

XYZprinting da Vinci Mini

Best Budget 3D Printer for Schools, Community Centers

4.0 Excellent

Bottom Line:

The XYZprinting da Vinci Mini is a consumer-oriented 3D printer that provides a winning combination of low price, ease of setup and use, solid print quality, and smooth, misprint-free operation.

PROS

Very low price.
Reasonably priced filament.
Good print quality.
No misprints in testing.
Easy setup and operation.
Quiet.
Prints over a USB or Wi-Fi connection.

CONS

Occasional problems in trying to launch prints.
Removing printed objects from the print bed is sometimes tricky.

Sold By	List Price	Price
Walmart	$199.95	$199.95	See It (Opens in a new window)
Amazon	$199.95	$199.95	See It (Opens in a new window)

Read Our XYZprinting da Vinci Mini Review

Toybox 3D Printer

Best Budget 3D Printer for Children

4.0 Excellent

Bottom Line:

The Toybox 3D Printer works well as a model designed for children, offering reliable printing from a browser or mobile device and a few thousand toys to print, plus creative options to output drawings or photos. Just bear in mind the tiny build area.

PROS

Reliable, misprint-free printing
Easy setup
One-touch operation
Well-composed help resources
Access to more than 2,000 printable toys and projects
Lets you create your own printable designs

CONS

Tiny build area
Not ideal for importing 3D files created elsewhere

Sold By	List Price	Price
Amazon	$299.00	$299.00	See It (Opens in a new window)
Toybox Labs	$379.00	$299.00	See It (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Toybox 3D Printer Review

Monoprice Mini Delta V2 3D Printer

Best Budget 3D Printer for Beginners, Non-Techies

4.0 Excellent

Bottom Line:

3D printing gurus will be intrigued by the Monoprice Mini Delta V2's use of the delta rather than Cartesian coordinate system, but beginners will just enjoy its low price, ease of use, and speedy printing.

PROS

Sub-$200 price
Quick, nearly misprint-free printing
Easy setup and operation
Sturdy steel-and-aluminum frame
Supports multiple filament types

CONS

Tiny build area
So-so print quality
Mere one-year warranty

Sold By	List Price	Price
Amazon	$323.98	$323.98	See It (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Monoprice Mini Delta V2 3D Printer Review

Anycubic i3 Mega S

Best Budget 3D Printer With an Open Design, Big Build Area

3.5 Good

Bottom Line:

The Anycubic i3 Mega S, an inexpensive open-frame 3D printer, produced decent-quality prints in our testing. To get the most out of it, though, may require precise calibration.

PROS

Modestly priced
Large build area for an inexpensive printer
Supports a variety of filament types
Generally solid print quality
Uses well-known Cura software

CONS

Finicky print-platform alignment
Supported coils of filament are small
Poorly placed spool holder

Sold By	List Price	Price
Amazon	$229. 98	$229.98	Check Stock (Opens in a new window)
AnyCubic	$279.00	$279.00	Check Stock (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Anycubic i3 Mega S Review

Anycubic Vyper

Best Budget 3D Printer for the Biggest Build Area Possible

3.5 Good

Bottom Line:

Anycubic's modestly priced Vyper whips up large 3D prints on its open-frame design, and provides automatic print-bed leveling. Just know that some minor assembly is required—and printed objects may require a bit of cleanup.

PROS

Relatively large build area
Automatic bed leveling
Simple assembly

CONS

Short (one-year) warranty
Includes only a small starter filament coil
Using Cura software with the Vyper requires tweaking a couple of settings
Test prints showed some "hairy" filament residue

Sold By	List Price	Price
Amazon	$429. 99	$429.99	See It (Opens in a new window)
AnyCubic	$369.00	$319.00	See It (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Anycubic Vyper Review

Creality Ender-3 V2

Best Budget 3D Printer for Tinkerers and DIY Types

3.5 Good

Bottom Line:

Hands-on tweaking defines Creality's budget-price Ender-3 V2, an open-frame 3D printer that you build from a kit. It produces generally above-par prints, but its print bed can be tricky to keep leveled.

PROS

Inexpensive
Slightly above-average print quality
Good-size build area for its price
Supports several filament types

CONS

Manual print-bed leveling can be tricky
Setup instructions could be deeper, more legible
Questionable quality control on some parts

Sold By	List Price	Price
Amazon	$299. 00	$246.00	See It (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Creality Ender-3 V2 Review

Flashforge Finder 3D Printer

Best 3D Printer for the Very Tightest Budgets

3.5 Good

Bottom Line:

The Flashforge Finder 3D Printer is moderately priced and offers good print quality, but it proved tricky to get up and running in our tests.

PROS

Quiet.
Good print quality.
Connects via USB 2.0 cable, USB thumb drive, or Wi-Fi.
Reasonably priced.

CONS

Some objects pulled off the platform during testing.
Poor documentation.
Modest build volume.
Limited to printing with polylactic acid filament (PLA).

Sold By	List Price	Price
Amazon	$729.00	$729.00	Check Stock (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Flashforge Finder 3D Printer Review

Polaroid PlaySmart 3D Printer

Best Budget 3D Printer for Dabbling in Small Objects

3. 5 Good

Bottom Line:

The Polaroid PlaySmart 3D Printer is a compact, stylish 3D printer with above-par overall print quality, but, alas, a tiny build area for the money.

PROS

Small, lightweight for a desktop 3D printer.
Easy to set up and use.
Supports PLA, PETG, and wood composite filaments.
Multiple-color support.
Wi-Fi camera monitors print jobs.
Prints from USB drives, SD cards, or mobile devices.

CONS

High price for its capabilities.
Small build area.
Too-brief warranty.

Sold By	List Price	Price
Amazon	$699.00	$699.00	See It (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Polaroid PlaySmart 3D Printer Review

XYZprinting da Vinci Jr. 1.0 A Pro

Best Budget 3D Printer With Closed Design, Roomy Build Area

3. 5 Good

Bottom Line:

The XYZprinting da Vinci Jr. 1.0 A Pro is a moderately priced closed-frame 3D printer with a large build volume and overall good performance, but a potentially balky filament-feeding system.

PROS

Spacious build area
Works with third-party filaments
Self-leveling print bed

CONS

Build plate is not heated
Limited to PLA- and PETG-based filaments
Guide tube is prone to detaching

Sold By	List Price	Price
Amazon	$299.95	$199.95	See It (Opens in a new window)
Best Buy	$449.95	$449.95	Check Stock (Opens in a new window)

Read Our XYZprinting da Vinci Jr. 1.0 A Pro Review

Monoprice Voxel 3D Printer

Best Budget 3D Printer for Cheap Filament

3. 0 Average

Bottom Line:

The Monoprice Voxel is an under-$400 3D printer that's easy to set up and use. It exhibits generally good print quality, but it was unable to print two of our test objects.

PROS

Easy to set up and use.
Budget price for printer and filament spools.
Supports PLA, ABS, and several composite filament types.
Versatile software.
Prints over Ethernet or Wi-Fi, or from a USB thumb drive.

CONS

Frequent misprints on certain test objects.
Slightly balky touch screen.

Sold By	List Price	Price
Amazon	$449.99	$369.26	See It (Opens in a new window)
Walmart	$429.99	$369.26	See It (Opens in a new window)

Read Our Monoprice Voxel 3D Printer Review

Buying Guide: The Best Cheap 3D Printers for 2022

How to Buy a Cheap 3D Printer

The biggest changes to 3D printers over the last few years have come to the cheaper models. Nowadays, many of those classic, ornery 3D-printing issues have been resolved (most of the time, anyway), even for consumer and bargain-priced 3D printers. Automatic print-bed leveling is the norm, and you can usually remove 3D-printed objects from heated and/or flexible build plates with a minimum of coaxing. And most 3D printer manufacturers have either developed and refined their own software, or have adapted an open-source printing platform such as Cura(Opens in a new window).

(Credit: Zlata Ivleva)

What separates more expensive 3D printers from cheap ones ("cheap" defined as $500 or less, for the purposes of this article) is often a select group of features. These include the build volume, the type of frame, the varieties of supported filament, the software, and the connectivity mix. Let's run through those in turn.

What's the Right Build Volume for a 3D Printer?

A 3D printer’s build volume is the maximum dimensions (HWD) of a part that it can print. (We say “a part” because a 3D-printed object can consist of multiple parts that are printed, then glued or otherwise pieced together.) While the smallest build volume of any 3D printer we have tested is 3.9 by 3.9 by 4.9 inches, we consider any build volume smaller than 6 by 6 by 6 inches to be small, any between that and 10 by 10 by 10 inches as medium, and any printer with at least one build dimension of more than 10 inches as having a large build volume.

(Credit: Molly Flores)

As a general rule, inexpensive 3D printers have small build volumes, while more expensive ones have larger build volumes. This depends in part on the type of printer. Closed-frame 3D printers—and most semi-open models, which have a rigid top, base, and sides but are open in front and, often, back—tend to have small build volumes, while open-frame printers, lacking as rigid a physical structure, often have relatively large build volumes for the price. You'll want to weigh the build volume against the kinds of objects you will print.

Should I Get an Open-Frame or Closed-Frame 3D Printer?

Which brings us to the frame "form factor" question: open-frame versus closed-frame. Closed-frame 3D printers are boxlike devices, with a rigid base, walls (with a see-through door in front), and top. Among their advantages? They muffle the operating noise, as well as reduce the odor from melted filament (which is potentially an issue with ABS plastic), and they provide some protection for people or pets who might inadvertently touch the hot extruder. A downside: They tend to have smaller build volumes than open-frame 3D printers, which have fewer (often, no) walls to constrict them.

(Credit: Zlata Ivleva)

Low-cost 3D printers include both open-frame and closed-frame models, as well as a few stereolithography printers. If a relatively large build volume is a priority, you’re likely to get more bang for the buck with an open-frame model. Open-frames do have some clear downsides by definition: They tend to be noisy, emit odors when certain plastics are melted, and provide little protection for someone who might touch the hot extruder.

(Credit: Molly Flores)

Also, recognize some potential negatives of open frames, depending on the model. Some require assembly, being essentially kits, and most require more setup care than a closed-frame printer, plus more maintenance to keep them running smoothly. Still, these very traits should not deter—and may even appeal to—hobbyists and DIY folks.

What Should I Look for in 3D Printer Software and Connectivity?

Gone are the days when tinkerers had to cobble together several different programs to get a 3D printer to run. Manufacturers either include their own 3D printing program or modify an existing platform such as the open-source Cura.

3D printing software performs three main functions: processing an object file (resizing, moving, rotating, and in some cases duplicating it), slicing it (into virtual layers, based on your chosen resolution), and printing it. These are almost universally combined into a seamless process. Some high-end printers have software that supports a wider range of settings you can tweak, but even the basic suites work at least reasonably well.

More likely to vary among the cheaper set is the array of connection options from model to model. Nearly all have a USB Type-A port to fit a thumb drive for printing from document files. Most also have a USB Type-B port for connecting directly to a computer, and some offer Wi-Fi, too (or as an alternative), while a handful let you connect via Ethernet to share the printer across a local network.

Some printers support storing 3D files on an SD or microSD card (which may also contain the printer’s system files). Most 3D printer manufacturers (even the discount ones) have a mobile app to launch and monitor print jobs, and a few provide access to cloud services from which you can print.

While high-end 3D printers tend to have an abundance of connection choices, discount models vary widely in their choices. Some are generous and some are basic, so it pays to assess what a given model offers.

What Should I Look for in Filament Support?

Filament support tends to be a key area that separates the cheaper models from the higher-end ones. (See our guide to understanding 3D printing filaments for more particulars.) Inexpensive 3D printers tend to support a limited number of plastic filament types, some of them only PLA and/or ABS.

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3D Printing: What You Need to Know

3D Printer Filaments Explained

(Credit: Molly Flores)

PLA (polylactic acid) is a biodegradable, plant-based polymer, while ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) is the same tough plastic that Legos are made from. Objects printed from ABS are durable and nontoxic, though the material can be tricky to work with. ABS can emit an acrid, unpleasant odor during printing, and the bottom corners of objects being printed with it have a tendency to curl upward a bit, especially if you are using a non-heated print bed. This can lead to unsightly prints, and/or prints prematurely pulling off the build plate, ruining them.

Many entry-level and low-price 3D printers stick exclusively to PLA. If you want to experiment with a larger variety of filaments—which include water-soluble filament, wood- and metal-laced composites, and both tough and flexible varieties—you may have to pay more, although a few discount models support a wide range of materials.

Should I Consider a 3D Printing Pen Instead?

Although they aren’t printers per se, inexpensive 3D pens are close kin to 3D printers—using the same filament types and a similar extrusion system—and we include them in the 3D printing category. Rather than tracing out a programmed pattern, you use the 3D pen much like a normal pen, except that you draw with molten plastic. You can trace a pattern or draw freehand, and even draw in three dimensions as the plastic quickly solidifies and hardens once extruded.

(Credit: 3Doodler)

Most 3D pens cost less than $100, and some cost $50 or less. At a glance, 3D pens may appear to be toys, but some artists and craftspeople have taken to them, as it is possible to make quite complicated and beautiful objects with them. If your aim in 3D printing is something closer to freehand design and free expression than computer-centric, structured, and repeatable output, you might give one a try.

So, What Is the Best Cheap 3D Printer to Buy?

Buying a budget 3D printer needn’t mean a world of sacrifice. Plenty of capable and reliable models sell at less than $500, and while they may not be as feature-rich as their more expensive cousins, there's no sense in paying for things you don’t need.

Many casual 3D-printing experimenters will be fine with printing over a USB cable or from a thumb drive, and sticking to PLA may be the best choice for a starter 3D printer. If you focus just on the features you want, you may be pleasantly surprised at what you find. Below, check out a spec breakdown of the best under-$500 3D printers we have reviewed, paralleling our picks above. Also, for a look at the broader market, see our guide to our favorite 3D printers overall.

Prusa MK3S+ 3D Printer Review: The Heavyweight Champ Continues to Dominate

Tom's Hardware Verdict

The Prusa MK3S+ continues to hold its own in a market saturated with low-cost competitors.

Pros

+
+ PrusaSlicer provides best-in-class model slicing
+
+ Flexible build platform sets the standard
+
+ Automatic bed leveling
+
+ Stealth Mode enables a nearly silent printing experience

Why you can trust Tom's Hardware Our expert reviewers spend hours testing and comparing products and services so you can choose the best for you. Find out more about how we test.

There are few 3D printers with as many industry accolades as the Prusa i3 MK3S+, and after spending some time with this printer, it’s easy to see why it’s one of the best 3D printers currently on the market. With a price tag of $999 for an assembled machine or $750 for a DIY kit, the price point of the MK3S+ is towards the high end for an open format consumer 3D printer, but the features of this machine and the ecosystem created by Prusa (they make their own hardware, software, filament, and more) have made the MK3S+ a formidable machine for anyone interested in taking their 3D printing game to the next level.

The features of the MK3S+ (silent stepper drivers, power-panic, etc.), noteworthy when originally launched, have largely become standard on lower-cost machines and may not seem particularly impressive on a spec sheet. However, clever software implementation and well-written documentation have created a machine that provides a best-in-class printing experience. For instance, the auto-leveling SuperPINDA probe of the MK3S+ maps the build platform for surface distortions, but the printer firmware is capable of storing multiple Z-offsets so you can switch build platforms without having to recalibrate every time.

The MK3S+ is a visually distinct machine; and the Prusa team has kept their black and orange color scheme for their smaller printer, the Prusa Mini+. The bright orange printed parts on the MK3S+ have created instant brand-recognition for the Prusa line of printers, and Prusa has doubled down on this by reinforcing their branding across their machine. In fact, you can find the word ‘Prusa’ printed, engraved, or etched into the MK3S+ in 25 places, 29 if you’re using a spool of their Prusa Polymers Prusament PLA material.

Specifications

Swipe to scroll horizontally

Machine Footprint	16.5 x 16.5 x 15 inches (42.0cm x 42.0cm x 38.0cm)
Build Volume	9.84 x 8.3 x 8.3 inches (250mm x 210mm x 210mm)
Material	1.75mm PLA, ABS, ASA, PETG
Extruder Type	Direct Drive
Nozzle	.4mm
Build Platform	Magnetic Heatbed with removable PEI spring steel sheets
Power Supply	240 Watts
Connectivity	USB, SD Card
Interface	3.4-inch Mono LCD and click wheel
Filament Run-Out Sensor	Yes

Included with Prusa MK3S+

The fully assembled Prusa MK3S+ ships with all of the accessories required to make your first print, and also includes enough spare parts to replace almost every fastener on the machine. The fully assembled MK3S+ also includes a bag of Haribo Goldbears, a signature addition from the Prusa team.

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(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The Prusa MK3S+ includes a full spool of silver PLA material, screwdriver, a metal part scraper, a glue stick (for adhesion), an isopropyl alcohol wipe, lubricant for the linear rails, power and USB cables, a sheet of stickers, a printed handbook, and a diagnostic printout that confirms the functionality of the mechanical and electrical systems.

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(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The usefulness of the handbook is hard to overstate. When you’re starting out with your first 3D printer, it can be difficult to pinpoint the cause of problems such as loss-of-extrusion, poor layer adhesion, or a clogged extruder. The included handbook is full of detailed photographs, troubleshooting workflows, and solutions to common problems. This is an invaluable resource for beginners, amateurs, and experts alike, and it’s clear to me that Prusa has set the standard for technical documentation.

Setting up the Prusa MK3S+

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The Prusa MK3S+ ships with a completed print attached to the build platform. This print features a serpentine line with 90 degree angles, curves, and a solid block in the center with the Prusa logo facing upwards. This print serves to confirm that the printer is functional and has been properly assembled and calibrated. I was able to easily remove the print from the build platform by bending the steel sheet and carefully removing it.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

After powering on, the printer automatically runs through an initial setup process. This process involves calibrating the Z axis by running it all the way to the top of the printer, running the mesh bed leveling process to set the Z offsets, and loading the filament. This entire process only took me a few minutes, and the high level of automation involved means that the only thing I needed to do was insert the filament into the extruder after it had heated up.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

You might be surprised to find that the Prusa MK3S+ is based on the RepRap i3 (third iteration) frame, originally released in September of 2012. Despite this nearly decade-old release date, the MK3S+ is full of modern advancements and enough innovative features to still be a top contender in the prosumer 3D printer market.

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(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The bright orange color makes the 3D printed parts on the MK3S+ easy to spot. The brackets mounted to the printer are printed in-house by Prusa using their own Prusament PETG filament. These brackets are robust and sturdy, and the uniform appearance between the printed parts give the printer a professional appearance. This version of the MK3S+ shipped with orange printed brackets, but the printer is also available in an all-black variant. A large selling point of the MK3S+ is the open-source nature of the machine, which means the printed parts are all available to download if you want to download, modify, or print them out yourself.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The monochrome LCD interface and click-wheel on the MK3S+ is one of the few less-than-impressive features on this machine; it feels dated and the UI navigation can be a little clunky. This stands in contrast with printers like the Anycubic Vyper, a sub-$400 machine that features a bright and responsive color touchscreen that shows detailed print statistics during printing. This monochrome display was industry standard when the original 8-bit i3-style of printers was introduced, but it feels outdated when compared to recent printers with color touchscreens.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The MK3S+ uses a filament spool holder that mounts directly to the frame of the printer. The T-shaped holder is able to hold two spools simultaneously, which is ideal if you plan on swapping between multiple colors to produce a multicolor 3D print. The direct-drive extruder on the MK3S+ feeds filament straight down into the hot end, so mounting the filament directly above the extruder gives the filament a straight path between the spool and the extruder.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

At the heart of the MK3S+ is the 8-bit Einsy RAMBo board, housed in a 3D printed enclosure mounted to the frame of the machine. This board is equipped with Trinamic 2130 silent stepper drivers, user-replaceable fuses, and the cable management is clean and professional.

The features made possible by this board (power-panic, live-Z adjust, silent steppers) were all major leaps when originally introduced, but many of these features have made their way down to less expensive FDM 3D printers like the Elegoo Neptune 2. The interface feels sorely in need of an update, and the addition of a color touchscreen and a 32-bit board (such as the one equipped on the Prusa Mini+) would refresh this platform.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The attention to detail on the Prusa MK3S+ is clear, and a perfect example of this is the wire management across the machine. Current-carrying wires are attached to the extruder module with zip ties that act as a strain-relief to prevent the wires from fatiguing and separating. The wires from the power supply are tucked neatly under the frame of the machine, out of sight and reach from users to prevent accidentally unplugging them during printing.

What Makes the Prusa MK3S+ Different?

It can be hard to understand why the Prusa MK3S+ costs so much more than a printer like the Creality Ender 3 Pro, which seems to have similar specs on paper. To understand why this machine is so much more expensive, we need to take a closer look at the individual components of the MK3S+.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

Critical to the success of the MK3S+ is its custom-made Delta 240 Watt power supply, mounted to the frame of the machine. This unit supplies 24V power to the bed with a max current of 10 Amps, which provides fast and reliable heating for printing high temperature materials like PETG and ASA. Less expensive machines typically use lower wattage power supplies, such as the 150W power supply used by the Flashforge Adventurer 3 Lite, which take longer to heat and can have difficulty maintaining a higher temperature.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The 24V heated bed is able to reliably hit 100C, which is more than enough to allow high temperature materials like PETG and ASA to adhere to the build platform without delaminating. The magnetic build platform is firmly held in place without any clips or latches and can easily be removed once it cools to room temperature. PETG in particular is easy to remove from the textured surface of the textured spring steel sheet, and the MK3S+ build platform is best-in-class for high-temperature adhesion.

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(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The MK3S+ is equipped with a genuine E3D hot end, and it has the holographic sticker to prove it (seriously). E3D manufactures every component in the hot end from the nozzle to the heatbreak which means you are very unlikely to run into the type of manufacturing defects that occasionally pop up on less expensive printers (incorrectly drilled nozzles, degraded PTFE tube liner, etc. ) In addition, this nozzle is rated for a max temperature of 300C (572F), which is easily hot enough to extrude most common thermoplastics and even some higher-temperature engineering-grade materials like Nylon and Polycarbonate.

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(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The printed parts on the MK3S+ are a perfect example of a company applying its in-depth knowledge of a subject to its product. The printed brackets found on the MK3S+ have been printed in PETG, and the outward-facing textured surface shows the level of quality you can expect from using a textured sheet.

In addition, I appreciate that Prusa has applied DFAM (Design for Additive Manufacturing) principles to these parts. These DFAM principles include concepts like printing hexagons instead of circles for relief holes, which print without requiring support material, and printing brackets perpendicular to their intended load to create mechanically tough parts.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The Prusa MK3S+ comes equipped with a SuperPINDA probe which is used for hands-free leveling of the build platform. The SuperPINDA (which stands for Super Prusa INDuction Autoleveling sensor) operates by detecting the proximity of the probe to the build platform and storing that information in firmware. The MK3S+ isn’t the first printer to use a probe for bed leveling, but the software implementation in PrusaSlicer means that after the printer has been set up, you can print without spending much time thinking about calibration.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

Compared to the manual bed leveling process of a printer like the Creality Ender 3 Pro, the MK3S+ is faster, easier to use, and requires less trial and error. PrusaSlicer includes a “G80” command in the start G-code (the instructions the printer reads when making a part), and this command performs a ‘Mesh Bed Leveling’ which probes the bed in a 3x3 grid to create a mesh surface that is used for calibration. This mesh surface causes the Z-axis motors to undulate over uneven areas while the print head remains perpendicular in the X/Y axis. During my testing, I didn’t need to run a single non-print calibration on the printer after the initial mesh bed leveling.

Build Platforms on Prusa MK3S+

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

Removing a printed part from the build platform of a 3D printer can be a challenging experience if the printer isn’t calibrated correctly. The Prusa MK3S+ attempts to solve this problem by using a removable build platform that is held in place magnetically and can be flexed to remove parts after the platform has cooled. I’ve tried many different types of build surfaces, and the smooth PEI sheet used by Prusa is by far one of the easiest to print on, remove parts from, and clean.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

Prusa also offers a textured steel build platform for the MK3S+ that has a gritty surface which can give printed parts a more uniform appearance. In fact, the signature textured look of the printed parts on the MK3S+ come from this build platform.

Parts printed on a smooth build platform will have a smooth bottom surface, which looks visually distinct from the striations on the sides of the part. By using a textured sheet, I was able to make prints that have a textured appearance on the bottom as well as the sides. This sheet is ideal for printing with PETG; the high print temperature of the material requires a textured surface to stick to, but also needs a surface that it can easily detach from.

Printing on the Prusa MK3S+

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The sample prints on the included SD card with the Prusa MK3S+ are a refreshing change from the sample parts that are typically included with low-cost 3D printers. The MK3S+ includes 16 pre-sliced parts that have been prepared for PLA with the total print time included in the file name. The sample prints vary in time from 23 minutes (a simple block with the word PRUSA on it) to almost 14 hours (a castle printed at .1mm layer height), and have all been prepared using sensible settings for the machine and highlight various features (variable layer height, multicolor printing, and fine .1mm layer resolution).

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(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

One of my favorite sample parts is the planetary gear bearing that prints in a single print. I printed this model using the Prusament Jet Black PLA material, and after removing it from the build platform I was able to easily spin the gear freely. This part really highlights the ability of the MK3S+ to produce parts with functional strength and purpose in addition to parts designed with aesthetics in mind.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

Another stand-out sample print included with the MK3S+ is the dragon model titled Adalinda the Singing Serpent by Loubie3D. This model takes a little longer to print (about 8 hours), but the final print is another favorite of mine. Because this model was sliced by Prusa for the MK3S+ printer, the sample print comes out with a high level of detail and no unexpected settings that can cause problems (too many exterior shells, no retraction, etc. ) like the sample prints included with other FDM 3D printers.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

Printing with PrusaSlicer on the Prusa MK3S+

(Image credit: Prusa)

Prusa has developed its own in-house slicer for the Prusa MK3S+, called PrusaSlicer. PrusaSlicer is a fork of the confusing-to-pronounce Slic3r app, which is also a free and open-source app. Prusa has invested a considerable amount of time and effort in PrusaSlicer, and this has translated into one of the most powerful 3D printing slicer apps available for desktop 3D printers on the market.

(Image credit: Prusa)

The current version of PrusaSlicer (2.3.3) includes profiles for printers by Prusa, Creality, Lulzbot, and more, and also includes a library of material profiles. In addition to these profiles, PrusaSlicer also includes multiple print setting profiles, which range from ultra-high detail at 0.05mm layer height to a draft mode which offers .3mm layers fast print speed at the expense of reduced quality.

Slicing Models in PrusaSlicer for the Prusa MK3S+

(Image credit: Prusa)

PrusaSlicer is a feature-rich program with a simplified interface that is accessible to beginners, experts, and everyone in between. I’ve spent a lot of time in the PrusaSlicer settings, and I appreciate how much work Prusa has put into making almost every parameter of the printing process addressable without creating an overwhelming interface.

The settings are broken down into three primary categories: Print Settings, Filament Settings, and Printer Settings. Print Settings generally focuses on the speed / quality of the print, Filament Settings is used to determine temperature and extrusion parameters, and Printer Settings is used for global parameters and determining start / stop instructions.

(Image credit: Prusa)

The primary interface offers three settings: Simple, Advanced, and Expert. Simple offers a stripped-down experience with only a few parameters able to be adjusted, while Advanced and Expert allow you to adjust the print on a more granular level.

PrusaSlicer Quality Settings for the Prusa MK3S+ / PLA

(Image credit: Prusa)

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Material	Prusa Basic PLA, Silver
Layer Height	0.20 mm
Infill Percentage	15%, Gyroid
Print Speed	45mm/second
Extruder Temperature	215 degrees Celsius (419 degrees Fahrenheit)
Heated Bed Temp	60 degrees Celsius (140 degrees Fahrenheit)
Print Time	1 Hour, 34 Minutes

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

There are few prints that are better at testing out a printer than the 3DBenchy, so I used the included spool of silver Prusa PLA to print this model out using the default . 2mm Quality PrusaSlicer settings. I was impressed with the overall quality of the Benchy, and even with a highly-reflective material like a silver PLA which can highlight defects from uneven layers, the layers looked even and consistent throughout.

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(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The Benchy boat model is designed to highlight various features of a printer (such as the ability to print steep overhangs, small features, etc.), and a quick examination of the model shows that the MK3S+ performed very well and didn’t have any of the common defects typically seen on this model.

PrusaSlicer Spiral Vase Settings for the Prusa MK3S+ / PLA

(Image credit: Prusa)

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Material	Prusament PLA, Galaxy Purple
Layer Height	0.20mm
Infill Percentage	0%
Print Speed	60mm/second
Extruder Temperature	215 degrees Celsius (419 degrees Fahrenheit)
Heated Bed Temp	60 degrees Celsius (140 degrees Fahrenheit)
Print Time	3 Hours, 9 Minutes

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

Slicing a model using the ‘Spiral Vase’ mode in PrusaSlicer will automatically create a model that is composed of a single continuously rising helical contour, which allows models to be printed a fraction of the time it would normally take to print using multiple layers. This mode is ideal for printing objects like vases or enclosures that only require a single contour as opposed to multiple contours and an infill structure. I printed the Curved Honeycomb Vase by eggnot to highlight this printing mode.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

The Prusament Galaxy Purple is a favorite color of mine due to the glitter additive in the filament. This additive creates layer lines that are evenly blended and have a textured appearance. Combining this material with the Spiral Vase mode produces parts that look almost conventionally manufactured, with layer lines that are difficult to see. This model printed in just over 3 hours in Spiral Vase mode, as opposed to over 13 hours if it had been printed using conventional settings.

PrusaSlicer Speed Settings for the Prusa MK3S+ / PETG

(Image credit: Prusa)

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Material	Prusament PETG, Chalky Blue
Layer Height	0. 2mm
Infill Percentage	15%, Grid
Print Speed	60mm/second
Extruder Temperature	250 degrees Celsius (482 degrees Fahrenheit)
Heated Bed Temp	90 degrees Celsius (194 degrees Fahrenheit)
Print Time	4 Hours, 5 Minutes

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(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

PETG is a material that offers increased mechanical toughness, heat resistance, and flexibility when compared with parts printed with PLA. Prusa has taken advantage of these material properties by printing many of the components on the MK3S+ with PETG, which creates a rigid part that is able to withstand mechanical stress. PETG is also notoriously difficult to print with due to the high level of stringing that can occur when printing multiple parts simultaneously, but I didn’t have any issues when printing with the Prusament PETG material on the MK3S+.

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(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

I used the default settings in PrusaSlicer to print the clamp model provided by Prusa that was designed specifically for PETG. This model features a functional thread, a flexible ball-and-socket joint, and can be tensioned without snapping the body of the clamp. The part printed in multiple pieces without stringing, and I was able to easily assemble it and verify functionality without damaging the clamp. If printed in a more brittle material (like PLA), I would expect the clamp to crack at a transition point on the body, but the PETG was able to hold tension without deforming or breaking.

PrusaSlicer 3MF Import for the Prusa MK3S+ / PLA

(Image credit: Prusa)

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Material	Prusa Basic PLA, Silver
Layer Height	0. 20mm
Infill Percentage	15%, Grid
Print Speed	60mm/second
Extruder Temperature	215 degrees Celsius (419 degrees Fahrenheit)
Heated Bed Temp	60 degrees Celsius (140 degrees Fahrenheit)
Print Time	2 Hours, 17 Minutes

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

PrusaPrinters (the online file repository created and maintained by Prusa) offers the unique ability to share 3D printable files that have been pre-sliced and prepared for the MK3S+ with detailed print statistics available from the site. A perfect example of this is the Bag Clip by Andrei; a cam-driven bag clip that highlights the type of design freedom offered by a 3D printer.

This model has been uploaded as a .3MF file that contains all of the information required to print, such as slicer settings, nozzle and bed temperature, and custom support structures (visibile in the screenshot above. ) 3MF is an increasingly popular alternative to the STL file, which doesn’t contain much information aside from the raw geometry of a model.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

This part printed flawlessly on the first try, and the provided .3MF (or .gcode) allows a user to send this file to anyone else with the same printer and material and feel confident that the part will be indistinguishable in appearance and performance. I’ve always thought of a 3D printer as the replicator from the Michael Crichton novel Timeline, which is able to produce identical objects at various locations by converting them into digital information. However, the success of a part is frequently beholden to the settings selected by a user for fabrication, so the ability to share the fabrication plans is one step closer to being able to send a physical product as a form of digital data.

(Image credit: Tom's Hardware)

At a price-point of $999 for an assembled printer (or $749 for a kit), the Prusa MK3S+ is a machine that doesn’t compromise on user experience and is absolutely one of the best 3D printers currently on the market. The MK3S+ has a professional and neat appearance, but the 8-bit monochrome LCD user interface might be a challenge for some users to get past, given the steep price. Interface aside, the prosumer features of the MK3S+ make it a stand-out machine for anyone who is looking for a reliable machine to produce functional parts without worrying about spending a lot of time tinkering.

If you are looking for a less expensive machine outside of the Prusa ecosystem, the Elegoo Neptune 2 (currently on Amazon for $180) offers similar printing size and features (with the notable exception of automatic bed leveling) at a fraction of the price but without the same level of robust support and documentation provided by the MK3S+ or any of the name-brand components like the E3D hotend. If you want the Prusa experience but are looking to spend a little less money, the Prusa Mini+ (available from Prusa for $399 assembled, $349 for a kit) is an excellent place to start.

Andrew Sink first used a 3D printer in 2012, and has been enthusiastically involved in the 3D printing industry ever since. Having printed everything from a scan of his own brain to a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, he continues to dive ever more deeply into the endless applications of additive technology. He is always working on new experiments, designs, and reviews and sharing his results on Tom's Hardware, YouTube, and more.

Comparison of 3D printing technologies: FDM, SLA and SLS

Additive manufacturing or 3D printing reduces costs, saves time and expands the technological possibilities in product development. 3D printing technologies offer versatile solutions for applications ranging from rapid concept and functional prototypes in the field of prototyping to fixtures and clamps or even final parts in manufacturing.

Over the past few years, high resolution 3D printers have become more affordable, more reliable and easier to use. As a result, more companies have been able to use 3D printing technology, but choosing between different competing 3D printing solutions can be difficult.

Which technology is right for your needs? What materials are available for her? What equipment and training is needed to get started? What are the costs and payback?

In this article, we take a closer look at three of today's most well-known plastic 3D printing technologies: Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), and Selective Laser Sintering (SLS).

Choosing between FDM and SLA 3D printer? Check out our detailed comparison of FDM and SLA technologies.

Download this high resolution infographic here.

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Can't find the 3D printing technology that best suits your needs? In this video tutorial, we compare Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), and Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) technologies in terms of the top factors to consider when purchasing.

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Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), also known as Fused Filament Manufacturing (FFF), is the most widely used form of 3D printing at the consumer level, fueled by the rise of consumer 3D printers. On FDM printers, models are made by melting and extruding a thermoplastic filament, which the printer's nozzle applies layer by layer to the model being built.

The FDM method uses a range of standard plastics such as ABS, PLA and their various blends. It is well suited for making basic experimental models, as well as for quickly and inexpensively prototyping simple parts, such as parts that are usually machined.

FDM models often show layer lines and may have inaccuracies around complex features. This sample was printed on a Stratasys uPrint FDM industrial 3D printer with soluble support structures (printer price starting at $15,900).

FDM printers have the lowest resolution and accuracy of SLA or SLS and are not the best option for printing complex designs or parts with complex features. Surface quality can be improved by chemical and mechanical polishing processes. To address these issues, industrial FDM 3D printers use soluble support structures and offer a wider range of engineering thermoplastics, but they are also expensive.

FDM printers do not handle complex designs or parts with complex features well (left) compared to SLA printers (right).

Invented in the 1980s, stereolithography is the world's first 3D printing technology and is still one of the most popular technologies among professionals today. SLA printers use a process called photopolymerization, which is the conversion of liquid polymers into hardened plastic using a laser.

See stereolithography in action.

Models printed on SLA printers have the highest resolution and accuracy, the sharpest detail and the smoothest surface of all plastic 3D printing technologies, but the main advantage of the SLA method is its versatility. Materials manufacturers have developed innovative formulas for SLA polymers with a wide range of optical, mechanical and thermal properties that match those of standard, engineering and industrial thermoplastics.

Models created using SLA technology have sharp edges, a smooth surface and almost invisible layer lines. This sample was printed on a Formlabs Form 3 Desktop Stereolithographic 3D Printer (price starting at $3499).

SLA is an excellent option for making highly detailed prototypes that require tight tolerances and smooth surfaces such as molds, templates and functional parts. SLA technology is widely used in industries ranging from engineering and design to manufacturing, dentistry, jewelry, modeling, and education.

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Selective laser sintering is the most common additive manufacturing technology used in industry.

Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) 3D printers use a high power laser to sinter fine polymer powder particles. The unsprayed powder supports the model during printing and eliminates the need for special support structures. This makes SLS ideal for complex geometries, including internal features, grooves, thin walls, and negative taper. Models produced using SLS printing have excellent mechanical characteristics: their strength can be compared with the strength of injection molded parts.

Models created with SLS technology have a slightly rough surface, but almost no visible layer lines. This sample was printed on the Formlabs Fuse 1 SLS workshop 3D printer (price starting at $18,500).

The most common selective laser sintering material is nylon, a popular engineering thermoplastic with excellent mechanical properties. Nylon is light, strong and flexible, resistant to impact, heat, chemicals, UV radiation, water and dirt.

The combination of low part cost, high productivity, and widely used materials makes SLS a popular method for engineering functional prototyping and a cost-effective alternative to injection molding in cases where production runs are limited.

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Each 3D printing technology has its strengths, weaknesses, limitations and applications. The following table summarizes the key characteristics and factors.

	Modeling method (FDM)	Stereolithography (SLA)	Selective laser sintering (SLS)
★★★★☆
accuracy	★cle ★cle \ ★★★★★
Easy to use	★★★★★	★★★★★	★★★★★★★★★★★★★0104
Benefits	Speed Inexpensive custom machines and materials	High cost efficiency High accuracy Smooth surface Wide range of functional applications	Robust functional parts Design flexibility No need for supporting structures
Disadvantages	Poor accuracy low detail Limited Compliance with Design Design	Susceptibility to prolonged UV exposure	Uneven surface Material Limitations
Applications	Inexpensive Rapid Prototyping Basic experimental models	Functional prototyping Templates, forms and tools Dental products Prototyping jewelry and molds Model building	Functional prototyping Small-scale and custom manufacturing
Print volume	Up to ~300 x 300 x 600 mm (desktop 3D printers)	Up to ~300 x 335 x 200 mm (Desktop and Workshop 3D printers)	Up to 165 x 165 x 300 mm (Workshop 3D printers)
Materials	ABS plastic, PLA and their various mixtures.	Various polymers (thermosets). Standard, engineering (with properties of ABS plastic, polypropylene, flexible, heat-resistant), molding, dental and medical (biocompatible).	Engineering thermoplastics. Nylon 11, Nylon 12 and their composites.
Training	Minimum training in equipment setup, machine operation and surface treatment; short maintenance training.	Plug and play concept. Minimal training in equipment setup, maintenance, machine operation and surface treatment.	Short training in equipment setup, maintenance, machine operation and surface treatment.
Room requirements	Air-conditioned environment or preferably individual ventilation for desktop machines.	Desktop machines suitable for office use.	Workshop systems have moderate space requirements and can be installed in a production environment.
Accessories	Support removal system for machines with soluble support structures (optionally automated), finishing tools.	Finishing station, washing station (optionally automated), finishing tools.	Post-processing station for cleaning models and restoring materials.

Either way, you should choose the technology that best suits your business. Prices have dropped significantly in recent years, and today all three technologies are offered in compact and affordable systems.

3D printing costing doesn't end with initial equipment costs. Material and labor costs have a significant impact on the cost of each part, depending on the application and production needs.

Below is a detailed breakdown by technology.

	Modeling method (FDM)	Stereolithography (SLA)	Selective laser sintering (SLS)
Equipment costs and sets for 3D-dimensions for 3Ds and sets several hundred dollars. Offering higher quality, mid-range desktop printers start at $2,000, while industrial systems start at $15,000.	Professional desktop printers start at $3,500, large-format workshop printers start at $10,000, industrial systems for large-scale production start at $80,000.
Material cost	$50-$150/kg for most standard and engineering yarns and $100-$200/kg for auxiliary materials.	$50-$150/L for most standard and engineering polymers.	$100/kg for nylon. SLS does not require supporting structures and unused powder can be reused, reducing material costs.
Labor	Manual removal of support structures (may be automated for industrial systems with dissolvable supports). Long post-processing is required to obtain a high quality surface.	Washing and final polymerization (both can be automated). Simple post-processing to remove supporting structures.	Easy cleaning to remove excess powder.

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FDM, SLA and SLS ski goggle frame prototypes (left to right).

We hope this article has helped you narrow down your search for the 3D printing technology best suited to your needs.

Take advantage of our additional resources to learn the ins and outs of 3D printing, learn more about each technology and learn more about specific 3D printing systems.

Learn more about 3D printing technologies

Clarity, accuracy and tolerance in 3D printing

Just because your 3D printer says it has "high resolution" doesn't mean it's be precise or clear.

Understanding the meaning of terms precision, clarity, and tolerance are a must for quality 3D printing results, regardless of industry. In this article, we will analyze what these terms mean in the context of 3D printing.

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Let's start with some definitions: what is the difference between precision, clarity and tolerance? For each term, we will use a target - a common example for understanding these concepts, helping to visualize them.

Precision determines how close the measured value is to the true value. In the target example, the true value is the bullseye. The closer you are to the bullseye, the more accurate your throw. In the world of 3D printing, the true value is the dimensions of your CAD model. To what extent does a product made on a 3D printer correspond to a digital model?

The clarity of the corresponds to the reproducibility of measurements - how consistent are your hits on the target? Clarity only measures this reproducibility. You can always hit the same spot, but it doesn't have to be the bullseye. In 3D printing, this ultimately leads to reliability. Are you sure that you will get the expected results for each model produced by your printer?

In engineering terms, "clarity" is used to measure the reproducibility of results. Applied to materials for 3D printing, “clear” can mean the ability to manufacture complex geometries. For example, Formlabs Gray Pro Resin and Rigid Resin resins have a high "green modulus", or modulus of elasticity, that can successfully print thin and intricate details.

What accuracy is required in this case? This is defined by tolerances that you define. How much wiggle room do you have based on the purpose of the model? What is the allowable variability in the closeness of the measurements to the exact ones? It depends on the specifics of your project. For example, a component with a dynamic mechanical assembly needs tighter tolerances than a conventional plastic housing.

If you're specifying tolerance, you'll probably need precision as well, so let's assume we're measuring bullseye accuracy. Earlier we called the shots in the picture with the target on the right fuzzy.

But if you have wide tolerances, this may not be a problem. The shots are not as close to each other as they are on the target on the left, but if the acceptable range of sharpness is ±2. 5 hoops, then you are not out of range.

As a rule, achieving and maintaining tighter tolerances entails higher production and quality control costs.

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There are many factors to consider when thinking about precision and clarity in 3D printing, but it's also important to get your needs right.

For example, a sharp but inaccurate 3D printer may be optimal for some applications. An inexpensive Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) machine will produce less accurate parts, but for a teacher teaching students 3D printing for the first time, the exact fit of the student's CAD model doesn't matter as much.

But if the printer performs to specifications and delivers the quality expected of it within the tolerances the user is accustomed to, this may be sufficient for successful operation.

Check out our detailed guide comparing FDM vs. SLA 3D printers to see how they differ in terms of print quality, materials, application, workflow, speed, cost, and more.

There are four main factors that affect the accuracy and clarity of a 3D printer:

3D printing is a type of additive manufacturing where models are made layer by layer. Violations can potentially occur in every layer. The layering process affects the level of clarity (or reproducibility) of each layer's accuracy. For example, when printing on an FDM printer, layers are formed using a nozzle, which cannot provide the same accuracy for obtaining complex parts as other 3D printing technologies.

Because the layers are extruded, FDM models often show layer lines and inaccuracies around complex features. (Left is an FDM printed part, right is an SLA printed part.)

In stereolithography (SLA) 3D printing, each layer is formed by curing a liquid polymer with a high-precision laser, resulting in more detailed models and achieve high quality on a consistent basis.

Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) also uses a laser to accurately convert nylon powder into lightweight, durable parts.

The specifications of a 3D printer alone do not give an idea of the accuracy of the models produced. One of the common misconceptions about the accuracy of various 3D printing technologies is describing XY resolution as dimensional accuracy.

For digital light processing (DLP) printers, the XY resolution corresponds to the projected pixel size. Many 3D printer systems use this projected pixel size, or XY resolution, as a general measure of accuracy, such as stating that with a projected pixel size of 75 µm, the accuracy of the device is ±75 µm.

Check out our guide to SLA and DLP 3D printing, where we talk about the features of the two processes and how they differ.

But this data does not affect the accuracy of the printed model. There are many other sources of error that affect accuracy, from components and calibration to materials and post-processing. We will consider the last two factors in more detail.

The best way to appreciate a 3D printer is to study the models printed on it.

Accuracy may also vary depending on the media you are printing on and the mechanical properties of those media, which can also affect the likelihood of model warping.

Formlabs Rigid Resin has a high green modulus, or modulus of elasticity prior to final polymerization, which allows you to print very thin models with high definition and reliability.

But, again, it all depends on your goals. For example, in dentistry, the accuracy of 3D printed models is critical. But if you're printing a concept model, chances are you just want to get a general idea of the physical product, and accuracy won't be that important.

Margins, mold surfaces, and contact surfaces printed with Formlabs Model Resin are accurate to within ±35 µm of the digital model at over 80% of surface points when printed at 25 µm settings. The overall accuracy across the entire arc is within ±100 µm on 80% of surfaces when printed with settings of 25 or 50 µm.

3D printed models often need to be cured, which in turn often leads to shrinkage. This is normal for any part made using SLA or DLP 3D printing. Depending on the printer, this phenomenon may need to be considered in the design. PreForm, Formlabs' free file preparation software, automatically compensates for this shrinkage, ensuring that the final cured models are the same dimensions as the original CAD model.

How does the final polymerization work? Learn more about the theory behind the process and see efficient ways to successfully finish curing models made with stereolithographic 3D printers.

Producing quality models on a 3D printer requires attention not only to the printer itself, but to the entire production process.

The final result may be affected by the print preparation software, post-processing materials and tools used. In general, integrated systems designed to work together produce more reliable results.

Unlike machining, where parts are progressively improved to tighter tolerances, 3D printing has only one automated manufacturing step. While complex coating adds cost to processes such as CNC milling, creating complex features with 3D printing is essentially free, although the tolerances of a 3D printed model cannot be automatically improved beyond the capabilities of the printer. without resorting to subtractive methods.

3D printing is a great option if you have rough, complex features such as undercuts and complex surfaces, and don't necessarily need surface accuracy better than ±0.125mm (standard machining). Tolerances beyond standard machining must be achieved using subtractive methods, either through manual or machine processing, for both 3D printed and CNC models.