3D printer perimeter
What are perimeters good for?
What are perimeters good for?
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November 10. 2015
Estimated reading time: 2 minutes
Although the perimeters setting is easy, many people still struggle with it. Even some of them do not know why they should use it. So what about you? Are you familiar with PERIMETERS?
Perimeters setting is located in Slic3r program under Print setting tab in section Vertical shells.
Slic3r
The given number basically indicates how many threads will form the printed wall. The higher number the thicker wall. For the thicker wall you need more material and printing spends more time. So why would anyone wanted to use higher perimeters number?
Slic3r / Plater / Print preview – PERIMETERS: 2; 3; 5; 7
Imagine you need to print very slanting surface rising at a slight angle and you do not want you use any infill or support because the final product is supposed to be hollow. In this case an error usually occurs. The defect consists in horizontal contours that are elapsing by a larger distance than the layers are printed in vertical direction (thread diameter / slice thinness). Because of that the nozzle is forced to lay single fibres into the void and inaccuracies will happen. But the thicker wall the bigger chance to catch the fibres to the previous layer.
PERIMETERS: 2 vs. PERIMETERS:5
Rising angle: 13°; Layer height: 0.2 mm
It is important to do several printing tests of critical spots to develop optimal setting. The image below shows comparison between PERIMETERS: 2 and PERIMETERS: 5 using the same set of inclined surfaces. In this case (Material: PLA-D 1,75mm; Layer height: 0.20 mm; Model size: 30 x 30 mm) is shown that PERIMETERS: 2 work fine from angle 35° and PERIMETERS: 5 can be happily used even from angle 20°. Keep in mind this model has straight applying way, for curved surfaced the PERIMETERS setting would work differently.
PERIMETERS: 2
PERIMETERS: 5
Printing defects shown on curved surfaces.
WHAT WE USE
In our Prusa3D driver package we have preconfigured Slic3r to use 2 perimeters for 0.2mm layer height and more for smaller layer heights. It provides great speed to quality ratio for most parts. We set the Slic3r to print from inside out to have invisible seam from layer change, but with increasing the perimeter count, the accuracy errors can stack up with each added perimeter.
OTHER PROGRAMS
This manual shows only perimeters setting in program Slic3r. Every single program exporitng .gcode files is solving perimeters setting differently. Following printscreen shows perimeters setting in program Simplify, which computes thicker wall in critical spots. Same applies to Cura from Ultimaker. Unfortunately Cura lacks a lot of features and has really bad user interface compared to our preferred Slic3r.
Simplify
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Layer height
Height of the individual slices/thickness of each layer. Layer height is the main factor affecting both:
- print time
- vertical resolution
By choosing taller layer heights you can significantly shorten the print time at the cost of more visible layers. On the other hand, choosing a small layer height (e.g. 0.10 mm) will result in extra detail at the cost of longer print times.
Generally, we do not suggest going lower than 0.10 mm as the improvement in print quality with 0.07 or 0.05 mm layers is relatively minor with significantly longer print times.
Keep in mind, that layer height changes only the vertical resolution. For example, an embossed text parallel with the print bed will look the same regardless of the layer height. If you’re looking for increased resolution in the XY plane, check nozzles with a different diameter.
Maximum layer height for your nozzle
The layer height should be below 80% of the nozzle diameter (e.g. the maximum layer height with a 0.4 mm nozzle is about 0.32 mm). The layer height cannot be higher than the nozzle diameter, PrusaSlicer will display an error message if you try to input such a value.
First layer height
When printing with very low layer heights you might still want to print a thicker first layer to increase adhesion to the print bed. Original Prusa print profiles always use 0.20 mm as the first layer height.
You can express this as an absolute value (e.g. 0.20 mm) or as a percentage of the default layer height (e.g. 150%).
Changing the first layer height will most likely require adjusting the calibration of the first layer on your printer.
Perimeters
Defines the minimum number of outlines that form the wall of a model. Original Prusa profiles always use a minimum of two perimeters.
Increasing model strength
The strength of a model is mostly defined by the number of perimeters (not the infill). If you want to have a stronger print, increase the number of perimeters.
Spiral vase
Creates a continuous single outline container, gradually increasing the Z height.
When printing anything with a single-perimeter wall, there is always a small flaw where the printer advances to the next layer. This spot, where the printer stops and finishes the perimeter, raises the Z height by the layer height and starts a new perimeter, creates an unsightly ‘scar’ running up the side of the model. This scar is also a weak point of the print.
Spiral vase does not have any such point where the layer changes, with the exception of the first N bottom solid layers. Instead, the height is increasing gradually all the time, until the top of the print is reached.
When the vase mode is activated, PrusaSlicer automatically sets related settings accordingly:
- one perimeter
- 0% infill
- disabled top solid layers
- disabled supports
- disabled "ensure vertical shell thickness"
Keep in mind that simply changing these settings and not enabling the vase mode is not the same as true vase mode, as the object won’t be printed continuously.
You can still adjust the number of bottom solid layers. Furthermore, you can adjust the External perimeters Extrusion width in the Advanced menu to get a thicker/stronger/watertight vase (e.g. from 0.45 to 0.6).
The model should be defined as a solid. Otherwise, PrusaSlicer will try (and fail) to create both inside and outside surfaces, so model the outside dimensions only.
Only one object at a time can be printed in the vase mode. If you had multiple objects on the print bed, it would be impossible to print them continuously. You can get around this limitation by enabling Sequential printing.
Recommended thin wall thickness
For a selected number of perimeters and layer height, PrusaSlicer calculates the optimal thin wall thickness. If you go back to your CAD drawing and change the wall thickness to this exact value, you will eliminate unnecessary perimeter overlap and your print will have a perfect wall surface finish.
Normally you get recommendations for an even number of perimeters (2,4,6…). If you enable Detect thin walls, you will also get a recommendation for an odd number of perimeters (1,3…).
You may think, that when the extrusion width for a perimeter is 0.45 mm, two perimeters will be 0.90 mm wide (2x0,45). However, if you look at the recommendation for a 0.2 mm layer height, you will find that this is not true and the suggested value is 0.86 mm.
In order to understand how this number is calculated, we need to take a look at the perimeter cross-section. PrusaSlicer assumes that the cross-section of an extrusion is a rectangle with semicircular ends. Note that the extrusion width includes the two semicircular ends.
(This image is a re-draw of the original source: https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math)
Now let’s add a second extrusion/perimeter. If we suppose no overlap (tangent paths), there would be empty space (yellow). In order to fill the empty space and bond the perimeters together, PrusaSlicer slightly overlaps the perimeters. This is essentially why you can’t just multiply the number of perimeters by the width of a single perimeter to get the ideal wall thickness.
(This image was heavily inspired by the original source: https://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math)
Note that the layer height (h) is used in the calculation and the implication this has - if you change the layer height, your ideal wall thickness will change as well!
For more information, check the Slic3r Flow math page (parts of this text are sourced from the same page).
Solid layers - top/bottom
The bottom and top part of each model is usually filled with solid layers (100% infill).
You can set how many top and bottom layers you wish to print. You can also set a minimum wall thickness, which is especially useful when using the variable layer height function. The tooltip below these settings will update with every change you make, giving you a better idea of the resulting top/bottom wall thickness.
Setting the top or bottom solid layers to 0 overrides the minimum wall thickness. So you don't have to set the minimum wall thickness to 0 as well in order to get top or bottom layers.
The top solid infill is essentially bridging over the infill pattern. Because of that, you’ll almost always see a little bit of sag of the first few solid infill lines. The lower the infill, the longer the bridging distance, and as a result the bigger the sag. This can be counteracted by simply increasing the number of solid layers - we suggest at least 3 top layers. You can further reduce this behavior with a modifier mesh, which increases the infill for the last few layers before the solid infill.
From left to right, 1, 2, 3, and 5 top layers, printed at 0.1 mm layer height.
Keep in mind that when you’re printing at low layer heights, you will need more solid layers to achieve the same top/bottom wall thickness (e. g. with 0.3 mm layer height use 3 top layers, with 0.1 mm layer height use 9 top layers).
The default solid infill pattern is rectilinear, however, there are several other patterns to choose from.
A legacy option that as far as we know, doesn't really do anything anymore. Let us know if you find a case where this changes anything.
Ensure vertical shell thickness
This function solves one of the biggest issues of older slicers, and that is having holes between the perimeters on a slanted surface. This was typical when printing busts and other organic-looking models. Such objects typically had a few holes on top of the head. With this function enabled, PrusaSlicer makes sure it lays down the needed (internal) supports for perimeters in an upcoming layer.
This feature is currently still affecting the G-code generation even when off and can produce unexpected G-code. This is a known issue and we are working on a fix.
Avoid crossing perimeters
Avoid crossing perimeters is an algorithm to minimize crossings of external perimeters during travel moves, which reduces stringing (especially with Bowden extruders) and improves overall print quality.
Enabling this feature slows down the G-code generation and increases print time somewhat (time increase varies between models).
This feature was significantly improved in PrusaSlicer 2.3. The new algorithm tries to route a travel path inside object islands with the shortest path while avoiding holes and concavities, while it takes the shortest path when traveling between islands.
If the detour is longer than the Max detour length, avoid crossing perimeters will not be applied for this travel move. You can use absolute values in millimeters, a percentage of the travel move, or set it to 0 to disable Max detour length check.
Detect thin walls
By default, every wall consists of outside and inside perimeters (a minimum of two perimeters for thin walls). If there is enough space for it, an infill pattern is used to fill the void between these inside/outside perimeters.
Enabling Detect thin walls lets PrusaSlicer generate just a single perimeter that works as both inside & outside shell. This will help to capture tiny details. However, walls thinner than a single perimeter extrusion width will likely still be ignored.
This feature is automatically disables, if the Arachne perimeter generator is active, as it already automatically adjusts for thin walls.
Thick bridges
For historic reasons, PrusaSlicer used to print bridges with extremely thick lines. This makes bridging very reliable and lets you bridge longer distances, but they didn’t look very good. The new default behavior uses your current layer height for bridging, making bridging reliable for shorter distances, but looking significantly better. This is the strategy that most modern slicers use. You can switch to the old behavior by enabling the Thick bridges option. Since the first solid layer above supports uses the bridging settings, this change also has a big impact on how supported overhangs look.
Left: Thick bridges enabled, Right: Thick bridges disabled
Detect bridging perimeters
Enables bridging flow for overhangs and turns on the fan.
Seam position
Determines the start point of each perimeter loop, and thus the position of the potentially visible vertical seam on the side of the object. Unless you're printing in the Spiral vase mode.
The seam looks like a tiny zit on the model surface. PrusaSlicer can attempt to hide the seam into model edges (using the “Nearest” setting) or on the rear side (“Rear”), spread them randomly on the surface (“Random”), or arranged into lines (“Aligned”).
You'll find more information and pictures in the Seam position article.
External perimeters first
Perimeters will be printed from the outermost to the innermost ones instead of in the inverse order.
This parameter may help with dimensional accuracy since the outer perimeter is laid down first and any extra filament extruded when printing following perimeters is pressed back away from the outer wall. On the other hand, the surface may be slightly less smooth.
Fill gaps
Enables filling of gaps between individual perimeters and between the innermost perimeter and infill.
Perimeter generator
Allow you to switch between the Arachne (default) and the Classic perimeter generator. The Arachne perimeter generator automatically adjusts the extrusion width of perimeters as needed. For most prints the Arachne perimeter generator is superior, but for some functional prints where the accuracy of concave corners is important, the classic perimeter generator may be better.
3D printer speed: how to set it up correctly?
3DPrintStory     3D printing process     3D printer speed: how to set it up correctly?
3D printing is often referred to as "rapid prototyping". The irony is that the creation of individual models can take up to several hours. Fortunately, 3D printing speed can be adjusted to reduce production time, but setting the speed incorrectly can also lead to defects and 3D printing failures.
In this article, we will introduce you to the general speed settings of a 3D printer. By the end of this guide, you'll know how to find the perfect balance between print speed and quality. Please be aware that different 3D printers, slicing software and materials may behave differently and retesting may be required.
Well, run the slicing software and let's get started!
3D Print Speed
3D Print Speed is the main setting that affects the printing of your 3D model. As the name suggests, print speed determines how fast your printer's motors move. This includes the motors that control the X and Y axes, as well as the motor(s) of the extruder.
To test your 3D printing speed, download the test model to determine the optimal print speed above. The description of this 3D model also contains recommendations for speed settings. In essence, the experiment is that the same model will be printed, but at a gradually increasing speed, which will allow you to visually determine the optimal speed setting.
Too low a 3D print speed can cause deformation due to the nozzle being on the plastic for too long. If too fast, other overheating artifacts may appear, caused by insufficient cooling, as well as extrusion and poor adhesion of the layers. The optimal speed should be as fast as possible for your 3D printer without compromising print quality too much. This 3D model will help you determine what speed will be optimal for your particular case.
To optimize print speed, this parameter is usually divided into several sub-parameters:
- Outer Wall/Shell 3D Print Speed : This parameter controls the print speed of the outer perimeter of the model. Usually it is slightly reduced to improve the surface quality.
- Inner Wall/Shell 3D Print Speed : This parameter controls the print speed of the inner perimeter(s) of the model. It is usually the same as the overall print speed to reduce print time while maintaining durability.
- Infill 3D Print Speed : This parameter controls the infill print speed of the model. This is usually the same as the overall print speed to reduce 3D printing time while maintaining strength.
- Top/Bottom 3D Print Speed : This setting adjusts the print speed of the top and bottom of the model. Usually it is slightly reduced to improve the surface quality.
Travel speed (idle)
Travel speed controls how fast the print head moves when it is not extruding plastic. Increasing the movement speed can save a lot of 3D printing time, but increasing it too much can lead to many defects, including misaligned layers (and therefore 3D printing failure).
To determine the optimal idle travel speed for your printer, print this test pattern at various travel speeds, starting at 100 mm/s and working up in increments of 5 mm/s. Continue to increase the speed if the surface quality is acceptable, and decrease if the 3D print quality is deteriorating. Pay attention to defects such as mismatched layers.
Retract Speed
Retract Speed controls how fast the 3D printer pulls material back before moving. This setting is critical for reducing material waste and improving 3D print quality. Too slow and you may be left with unsightly threads and blemishes on your models. Too fast and you can get excessive material wear on the extruder drive gear, resulting in voids.
To determine the optimal retract speed for your 3D printer, print this test model at various retract speeds, starting at 25mm/s and adjusting in 5mm/s increments. Pay attention to the remnants of plastic in the form of a web, stretched between the spikes of the model. The ideal retract speed should be the maximum value that minimizes these artifacts without deforming the material in the feed mechanism.
To better tune the retract speed, this parameter is usually divided into two additional parameters:
Retraction Retract Speed : This parameter controls how fast the retraction (actually pulling the thread back) occurs. This is usually the same as your overall retract speed and is set the same way.
Retraction Prime Speed: This setting controls how fast the filament is re-feeded after the initial retraction in preparation for further printing. Increasing this speed will result in shorter 3D printing times and fewer defects due to prolonged exposure to heat on the plastic. However, increasing it too much can also cause the newly fed media to not heat up enough before printing resumes. For most cases, this setting should be left the same as Retraction Retract Speed.
To learn more about reducing retract speed defects, see our separate retract speed tuning guide.
Walls, infill and layer height
The speed of your 3D printer is not only affected by "speed". It is also significantly affected by how much and how thick plastic is extruded onto each layer of the 3D model. These settings are incredibly detailed, so we'll only cover general information about how each of them affects 3D print speed.
- Walls : The wall setting specifies how many perimeters of plastic are extruded to form the outline of your part. Increasing the number of layers increases the strength of the part, but also increases the 3D printing time.
- Infill : Infill is an internal structure designed to save material when 3D printing the interior of 3D models. The infill pattern will slightly affect the speed of 3D printing, while the density of the infill will significantly change the print time. Higher infill density increases part strength, but also increases print time.
- Layer Height : The layer height greatly affects the speed at which your parts print. The higher the layer height, the thicker each layer of your 3D models and therefore the faster they will be completed. Adjust this depending on what print resolution you need.
FDM technology. How it works.
Hello everyone, 3DTool is with you!
In this article on 3D printing, we will look at the basic principles of FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) technology. Let's deal with the basic mechanics of this process. Its advantages and limitations.
FDM technology
Overlay printing (FDM) is an additive manufacturing process that is realized through the extrusion of materials. In FDM, an object is built by applying molten material according to a predetermined algorithm, layer by layer. The materials used are thermoplastic polymers and are filament-shaped.
FDM is the most widely used 3D printing technology. FDM printers are on the market in a wide variety. It's basically the first technology people come across when they start working with 3D. The following will introduce the basic principles and key aspects of this printing method.
An engineer who designs a 3D model should take into account the possibilities of technology when manufacturing a part with FDM, this knowledge will help him achieve the best result.
Process FDM printing
Here is how the FDM process works:
A spool of thermoplastic filament is loaded into the printer. Once the nozzle reaches the required temperature, the filament is fed into the extruder and into the nozzle where it is melted.
The extruder is attached to a 3-axis system that allows it to move in the X, Y and Z directions. The molten material is extruded in thin filaments and melted in layers at predetermined locations where it then cools and solidifies. Sometimes the cooling of the material is accelerated by the use of fans attached to the extruder.
The extruder requires several passes to fill the printable area. When the layer is finished, the platform moves down (or, as in some printer models, the extruder moves up), and a new layer is welded onto the already set one. This process is repeated until the entire model is printed.
FDM printer specifications
Most FDM systems allow you to adjust several parameters of the printing process. Such as nozzle temperature, platforms, print speed, layer height and cooling fan speed. These are usually set by the printer operator and do not bother the modeler.
What is important from a modeling standpoint is to consider the size of the table and the layer height of the part itself:
The standard printable area of a desktop 3D printer is usually 200 x 200 x 200 mm, while for industrial machines it can be up to 1000 x 1000 x 1000 mm. If a desktop 3D printer is preferable (e.g. for cost reasons), the large model can be broken down into smaller pieces and then reassembled/glued together.
The typical layer height used in FDM varies from 50 to 400 microns and can be determined during the software slicing step. A lower layer height will provide a smoother detail and more accurately represent complex geometry, while a higher layer height will print the part faster and at a lower cost. The layer height of 150-200 microns is optimal in terms of the ratio of printing time and its quality.
Part deformation
Warp is one of the most common defects in the FDM printing process. Some plastics shrink during cooling after extrusion. Since different regions cool at different rates, their dimensions can also change at different rates. Differential cooling causes an accumulation of internal stresses that pull the layer, the one from the bottom - up, deforming it, as shown in the figure below. From a technical point of view, deformation can be prevented by more careful control of the temperature of the platform and the chamber as a whole. By increasing the adhesion between the part and the platform.
The modeler can also reduce the chance of peeling and other warp-related defects:
Large flat areas (such as a rectangular box) are more prone to deformation and should be avoided if possible.
Thin protruding elements (for example, battlements, spiers) are also prone to deformation. In this case, it can be avoided by adding some support material around the edge of the thin element (for example, a 200 micron thick rectangle) to increase the contact area.
Sharp corners deform more often than rounded shapes, so smoothing the corners slightly can achieve a good result.
Different plastics are more susceptible to deformation: ABS is generally more sensitive to this factor than PLA or PETG due to its higher glass transition temperature and relatively high coefficient of thermal expansion.
Adhesion between layers
Good adhesion between layers is very important for an FDM printed part. As the molten plastic is extruded through the nozzle, it is pressed against the previous layer. High temperature and pressure remelt the surface of the previous layer and allow the new layer to bond with the old one.
The strength of the bond between different layers is always lower than the basic strength of the material.
This means that FDM parts are inherently anisotropic: their Z strength is always less than their X/Y strength. For this reason, it is important to keep the orientation of parts in mind when designing.
For example, tensile test specimens printed horizontally with ABS at 50% infill were compared with test specimens printed vertically and found to have nearly 4 times higher tensile strength in the X, Y axis compared to the Z axis ( 17.0 MPa compared to 4.4 MPa). Such a part is stretched to failure, almost 10 times more (4.8% compared to 0.5%).
Moreover, since the molten material is pressed against the previous layer, its shape is deformed to an oval. This means that parts will always have a wavy surface, even at low layer heights, and that small features, such as small holes, may need post-printing post-processing.
Supports
The support structure is essential for creating tab geometries. Because plastic cannot be applied to air, some geometries require a support structure.
Surfaces printed with supports are usually of lower quality than the rest of the part. For this reason, it is recommended that the part be modeled in such a way as to minimize the need for support.
Supports are usually printed from the same material as the part. There are also special materials that dissolve in a liquid, but they are mostly used in high-end desktop or industrial 3D printers. Printing on soluble supports greatly improves the surface quality of the part, but increases the overall cost of printing because a special printer with two print heads is required and because the cost of soluble material is relatively high.
Filling and shell thickness
FDM parts are usually not printed full in order to reduce printing time and save material. Instead, the outer perimeter is made with several passes, it is called a shell, and the inner part is filled with a low density structure called infill.
The filling and thickness of the body greatly affect the strength of the part. For desktop FDM printers, 25% infill density and 1mm body thickness are mostly suitable. Usually, these are the standard settings for fast printing and a good compromise between strength and speed.
Above you see the internal geometry of parts with different degrees of filling
FDM Essential Consumables
One of the strengths of FDM printing is the wide range of materials available. They can range from conventional plastics (such as PLA and ABS) to engineering plastics (such as TPU and PETG) and high strength materials (such as PEEK).
Below is a pyramid of materials most available in FDM printing.
The material used directly affects the mechanical properties and accuracy of printing, as well as its price. The most common FDM printing materials are listed below. We will also consider the pros and cons of certain plastics. An overview of the main differences between PLA and ABS, and a detailed comparison of all common types of filament is a very extensive topic and can be found in special articles on the Internet and on thematic forums.
ABS
pros
· Durability
Good temperature resistance
Minuses
Shrinks when printed
PLA
pros
Excellent visual quality
Easy to print
· Unharmful. May come into contact with food
Minuses
· Low impact strength
· Longevity
Nylon
pros
· Very high strength
Excellent wear and chemical resistance
Minuses
· Actively absorbs water
PET-G
pros
· Unharmful. May come into contact with food
Sufficiently strong
Minuses
Capable of precise temperature print settings
TPU
pros
· Very flexible
Minuses
Printing accuracy is very difficult to achieve
PE EK
pros
· Extremely durable and lightweight
Excellent flame retardant and chemical resistance
Minus
· High price
Need a specialized 3D printer whose extruder is capable of reaching temperatures above 300C
Postprocessing
FDM parts can be processed to high standards. When using various methods such as: sanding, polishing, priming, painting, cold welding, acetone bath (to smooth the surface and create a glossy surface), epoxy coating and plating.
Advantages and disadvantages of FDM printing
+
· FDM printing is the most economical way to produce custom thermoplastic parts and prototypes.
· FDM printing lead time is acceptable. The technology is quite affordable these days.
Wide range of materials suitable for both prototyping and some non-commercial functional applications.
-
FDM printing has the lowest dimensional accuracy and resolution compared to other 3D printing technologies, so it is not suitable for models with complex geometry and fine details
The final product will have visible layer lines, so post-processing is required for a better look
Layer adhesion mechanism makes FDM printed parts anisotropic
Highlights
· With FDM printing, prototypes and functional parts can be produced quickly and at a low cost.