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A Quick Guide To 3D Printing Without Getting Layer Lines
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3D printing can be a great way to get a product made. It is also costly and time-consuming, making it challenging to get started.
This post will guide you on properly using your 3D printer to avoid layer lines and give you tips on getting the best print quality. It is important to note that all 3D printers have limitations.
Each design will require materials and settings specific to your printer. The most common ones are:
PLA – comes in opaque or transparent, is easy to print with but has limited strength and flexibility, and is a poor thermal conductor, meaning it can’t transfer heat well.
ABS – comes in opaque or translucent, is easy to print with, and has good strength and flexibility but can be challenging to print with.
Read More About:
- How to fix layer shifting ender 3 v2? (7 min read)
- 3D Printer Belt Tension: How to Properly Tension a 3D Printer Belt? (7 min read)
- 7 Simple Steps to Fix 3D Printer Layer Shifting.
(5 min read)
- PLA Smoothing: All You Need To Know (5 min read)
- Why Are There So Many Uneven Lines on 3D Prints (Causes)?
- 7 Ways To Preventing Layer Lines on 3D Prints
- 1. Reducing Layer Height
- 2. Nozzle Diameter Adjustment
- 3. Slack issue fixing
- 4. Printing Temperature Optimization
- 5. The Filament of High Quality
- 6. High Model Orientation
- 7. The Temperature of The Printing Zone
- Conclusion
Why Are There So Many Uneven Lines on 3D Prints (Causes)?
Layer lines in 3D printing occur when the printer deposits material one layer at a time. And the result is an object with rows of lines running perpendicular to the print head’s travel direction, usually from bottom to top.
Most commercial 3D printers produce layer lines because they move the print head in a Cartesian coordinate system. This systematic movement leaves visible striations on the printed part. Objects with intricate geometries are more likely to show layer lines than those with simpler designs.
There are a few potential culprits for layer lines in 3D printing.
The causes of layer lines are:
- Uses of large size layer height
- Uses of large size nozzle diameter
- 3D printer parts with slack
- Incorrect temperature of the printing
- The filament of low quality
- Poor model orientation
- Printing zone in a cold place
7 Ways To Preventing Layer Lines on 3D Prints
Layer lines are a common problem for those who print their 3D models. Layer lines can be an eyesore, but fortunately, there are easy ways to get rid of them.
There are ways to prevent layer lines on 3D prints if you take the time to understand how they form in the first place. The printer head’s speed or the print bed’s temperature generally causes the layer lines on a 3D print.
Suppose you can adjust one or both of these settings. In that case, you can significantly reduce the appearance of layer lines on your final print.
Another way to prevent layer lines is to adjust the printing speed.
If the temperature is too low, the layers will be less well-defined and may cause a rough surface. Suppose the temperature is too high, the plastic may melt, causing blobs and other defects. The layers will be more clearly visible if the speed is too slow.
If the speed is too fast, the printer may not have enough time to lay down all the plastic, causing deficiencies in some areas.
To get rid of the problems with layer lines some methods can help effectively.
Mentioned problems can be solved with the following methods-
1. Reducing Layer Height
When you print an object with 3D Printer, you always try to get a smoother view and feel but you are facing troubles with it because you are not getting it instead you are getting the rougher feel and seeing several layers of lines on your printing surface.
To solve this you should fix the layer height of your printer down. It helps you to get a smoother surface on your 3D printing objects.
If the layer height is big then you won’t get the best smoother printing surface.
If your layer height is minimum then you will get a smoother printing surface and you won’t see the layer lines on your surface.
So, reduce the layer height as much as you can to get the best printing surface without showing any layer lines.
For this, you can use the magic of numbers that are in default in Cura, and the number is0.04-millimeter increments for the Ender 3.
You can also try to run more test prints to figure out which layer height makes the minimum visible layer lines.
These are the ways you can try to reduce the layer height in terms of getting the best smooth least visible layer lines printing surface when you print 3D objects.
2. Nozzle Diameter Adjustment
If you want to get the best print quality with your 3D printer then you have to adjust your nozzle diameter according to your layer height.
Most of the cases it’s becoming a thing that your layer height should not be more than 80% of your nozzle diameter.
In another way, your height should be a minimum of 25% of your nozzle diameter.
From my personal experience, I’m used to it that I’m using a 0.4mm nozzle and getting the exciting premium quality of print with 0.12 mm layer height. The print quality is amazing, smoother to touch. When you print smaller objects which have a lot of details then you going to try a smaller nozzle of 0.1mm.
In this case, you going to have the amazing print quality from your 3D printer and also having without any layer lines on your printing.
You should try many more nozzle diameters to figure out which one is working best for your 3D printer with your best printing requirements. Try to follow the adjustment of your nozzle diameter according to the layer height of your printer.
3. Slack issue fixing
When you are done with your layer height and nozzle diameter adjustments then there is a huge possibility you not going to have the best print quality you want. Because there are other things you should also keep in your head to be fixed.
Here, I’m talking about the mechanical issues of your 3D printer that are related to the physical part of your printer. There is a big thing to solve it because of Slack issue fixing of your printing surface. It helps you to get a printing surface without showing layer lines. For this you have to follow this kind of thing, actually, you have to fix this,
Make sure that your printer is in a sturdy place. If your printer isn’t there, then you have to place it in a sturdy place. Because, you will have a lot of imperfections and defects in your print quality if there is any slack on moving parts of your printing surface, It’s may be created from the vibrations of your printer.
So, better you should place your printer in a sturdy place to fix this. Like you need an anti-vibrant setup for your 3D printer to get removed from this slack issue problem. You can use anti-vibrant mounts and pads to get rid of the movements of your printer.
Also, don’t forget to check that there aren’t any loose screws, nuts, or bolts in your 3D printer.
Make sure of it. Because of this, you can have vibrations from your printer and that leads to a problem. Always try to use a light oil to keep your lead screw lubricated, for this you can try sewing machine oil in your printer screws to get better results.
Make sure your filaments are okay without any obstructions and it is being fed through the extruder smoothly.
4. Printing Temperature Optimization
If you want premium-quality printing from your 3D printer then you will always try to avoid printing imperfections, whether it is too small or not.
Who doesn’t want it?
Obviously, everyone will follow what needs to be done to avoid any kind of printing imperfections. Because it may lead to huge printing imperfections with print quality having layer lines on the prints.
To avoid this kind of imperfection you should keep in mind the temperature issue of your printer. I think now you just got, what I was trying to say. Yes, it’s the temperature issue and you have to find out the optimal temperature for your printer filament.
If you don’t have the perfect temperature then you will have the wrong printing quality with showing layer lines.
So, it’s very important to check out. If your temperature is high then it’ll melt your printer filament quickly and then it’s not gonna run properly which may lead you to imperfections in your print quality. For this, you can download and 3D print a temperature tower to figure out the optimal printing temperature for your printer filament.
When you change the filament of your printer then you should mark the temperature that is the best suit for your filament. And this is how you will find the optimal temperature for your filament. Hey, I just remember the other thing regarding the temperature issue and you just have to follow it.
It is the issue of your surrounding environment temperature that shouldn’t be cold because if you print 3D quality printing in a cold surrounding environment then you have printing imperfections that may cause your printer filament.
So, follow everything that is mentioned above to reduce printing imperfections from temperature issues.
5. The Filament of High Quality
To get the smoother and best quality feel prints from your 3D printer you should use high-quality filament. You will see the difference in how a good quality filament can change the whole print quality of your 3D printer.
I have already talked with many users who have been using high-quality, top branded filament for a long time and they told me that it is one of the best things in any 3D printer to have.
They told me that the filaments that are not good in quality and cheaper in price always give huge imperfections in printing quality. So, they all started to try high-quality based of filament for their printer to have the best printing difference.
For this, you need to purchase high-quality based of filament from the market. For this, you need to spend more money than you spend for any normal filament.
Go to the market and order a bunch of filaments and then try in your printer and then check which one works best for your printer.
This is how you can get high-quality filament for your printer.
When you purchase a filament always try to have a filament that has a rough texture most likely marble or wood-based. Trust me this kind of filament works best for your projects.
What do you actually want with your 3D printer?
The answer is you always have the best quality of printing with less amount of printing imperfections and in your printing, there will be no layer lines.
Exactly, this is what you want with your printer. For having the best quality of printing you should buy a smooth filament that can make your printing surface smoother. So, the choice is yours, make it wisely.
6. High Model Orientation
Sometimes, you may think why are not satisfied with your 3D printer after doing so many steps to have the best quality of 3D printing. This can happen like a tinny factor too. You then might forget to fix your printer model orientation.
Yes, this factor can make a huge difference in your printing quality showing more visible layer lines.
So, the right model orientation of your printer can give you extra benefits to your printing quality.
For this thing, you should keep in your head that according to directions whether it is X, Y or Z, the best resolution you will have on the Z-axis is proved. Because, on the Z-axis you can look at each layer or layer height that can go down as far as 0.07 mm, which can give you the best orientation. Here, the resolution is far better than the XY surface.
Make your orientation in such a way that if you print any facial features that can give you the most level and view to work.
If you create your orientation with fewer angles then you gonna have minimum layer lines.
So, the thing is you must have to orient your model in such a way where you have the most level of planes with fewer angles to show up minimum printing layer lines, that’s it.
7. The Temperature of The Printing Zone
To avoid showing up layer lines on your printing surface you must have to avoid temperature fluctuations.
You should avoid a cold environment setup with your 3D printer.
You should make sure that your PID controller is working right that controls your temperature issue.
Try to have an optimal temperature to get the best printing quality and the most conscious thing is your filament going to be affected and melted mostly by the reason of temperature fluctuations. So, better fix it.
Conclusion
A few things could cause the layer lines in 3D printing: improper calibration of the printer, incorrect filament diameter, or incorrect extrusion speed. Another possibility is that the print bed is unleveled, which can also cause uneven layers.
Furthermore, suppose your printer nozzle is too close to the print bed. It will deposit too much plastic in a single spot and cause warping or blistering. It includes the speed and direction of the print head, the temperature of the build platform and material, and vibration.
When these factors are not adequately aligned, it can cause inconsistencies in the layers that make up the printed object, resulting in visible lines or ridges on the surface.
Finally, there are several ways to troubleshoot and minimize layer lines in 3D printing, but understanding their causes is key to addressing them.
To solve this problem of showing up layer lines on the printing surface one must follow the mentioned methods to get the best result of printing with 3D printers.
It’s not that easy to maintain all the methods but once you are learned all the materials and things then you will be satisfied more with the result when you gonna see the smoother, no-layer lines on the surface of this kind of printing quality. You will be satisfied then fewer printing imperfections by your 3D printer.
So, better follow all the methods that are possible for you to make a huge change in your printing quality with fewer imperfections. That’s all you have to make.
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8 Ways How to 3D Print Without Getting Layer Lines – 3D Printerly
3D print quality is one of the most important aspects of 3D printing, especially when creating objects for aesthetic looks. Learning how to 3D print without getting layer lines is an important skill to have in your 3D printing journey.
To 3D print without getting layer lines, you should reduce your layer height to around the 0.1mm mark. You can really smooth surfaces with layer heights of 0.1mm or below. You should calibrate your temperature, speed, and e-steps to make sure your 3D printer is optimized for 3D print quality.
Unfortunately, it can be pretty difficult to get 3D prints that don’t show layer lines. I decided to do some research to 3D print without layer lines for the highest quality prints.
Keep on reading through this article for some great tips, tricks, and pointers to achieving this useful ability.
Why Do 3D Prints Get Layer Lines?
Some of the many reasons which can cause layer lines are listed below. I will be explaining all these reasons in the next section of the articles so, keep on reading.
- Using a large layer height
- Using a large nozzle diameter
- Looseness or slack in 3D printer parts
- Incorrect printing temperature
- Low quality filament
- Bad model orientation
- Printing in a cold room
- Over-extrusion
How to 3D Print Without Getting Layer Lines?
1.
One of the best things that you can do to 3D print without getting layer lines comes down to your layer height. There aren’t really many ways around this in terms of improving your print quality to the point where you are getting a smooth exterior surface.
When you are 3D printing an object, you see that they are built up of several layers. The larger the layer, the rougher the feel and more visual the layer lines become.
You can think of it as a staircase. If you have very large steps, that’s a rough surface in terms of 3D printing.
If you have tiny steps, it’s going to be a smooth surface. The smaller the ‘steps’ or layer height in your objects the smoother it will be, up to the point where you can’t see the layer lines.
What you should do is:
- Reduce the layer height in your slicer
- Use the ‘Magic Numbers‘ which are now default in Cura (e.g. 0.04mm increments for the Ender 3)
- Run several test prints and see which layer height produces the least visible layer lines
- You may have to adjust your nozzle diameter and temperature to account for the reduction in layer height
I’ve written a detailed post about the ‘Best Layer Height for 3D Printing‘ which goes into how reducing your layer height makes the most significant difference in 3D printing without layer lines.
2. Adjust Nozzle Diameter
Following on from the previous method, if you want to reduce your layer height small enough, you may need to change your nozzle diameter to account for that change.
The general rule for nozzle diameter and layer height is that your layer height should be no larger than 80% of your nozzle diameter. It also works the other way where your layer height should, at minimum be 25% of your nozzle diameter.
I’ve been able to 3D print with my 0.4mm nozzle and get some great Benchy prints at a 0.12mm layer height, which presented a print which barely had any layer lines showing and was very smooth to the touch.
You’ll want to use a smaller nozzle if you are printing miniatures or just small objects in general which have a lot of detail. You can do an amazing job of 3D printing without layer lines with a small nozzle, which I’ve seen go down to 0.1mm.
- Adjust your nozzle diameter relative to your layer height
- Try out many nozzle diameters and see which one works best for your projects
- You can purchase a set of nozzles which range from 0.1mm to 1mm in nozzle diameter
3. Fix Mechanical Issues
Even after reducing your layer height there are other factors which may hold you back from creating 3D prints without layer lines, one of these factors is mechanical issues which relates to the physical parts of your 3D printer.
Mechanical issues also include the surface in which you are printing on, any slack within the moving parts and so on. Many imperfects and defects in 3D prints arise from this factor, especially with vibrations from the movements of your printer.
I actually wrote an article about How to Fix Ghosting/Ringing in 3D Prints, which are wavy lines throughout your print exterior.
- First, I would put my 3D printer on a sturdy surface
- Implement anti-vibration mounts and pads to reduce these movements
- Make sure there aren’t any loose screws, bolts or nuts throughout your 3D printer
- Keep your lead screw lubricated with a light oil such as sewing machine oil
- Make sure your lead screw isn’t bent, by removing it and rolling it on a flat surface
- Ensure your filament is being fed through the extruder smoothly, and without obstructions
- Use Capricorn PTFE Tubing which gives a smooth, tight grip on extruded filament
4. Find Your Optimal Printing Temperature
If you’ve ever printed a temperature tower, you can see how small differences in temperature makes a significant difference. Having the wrong temperature can easily contribute to creating 3D prints that show layer lines.
Higher temperatures melt your filament quicker and make it less viscous (more runny) which can give you print imperfections. You want to avoid these imperfections if you are after some good print quality.
- Download and 3D print a temperature tower to find the optimal printing temperature for your filament.
- Each time you change filament, you should calibrate the optimal temperature
- Keep your surrounding environment in mind in terms of temperature, as you don’t want to 3D print in a cold room.
5. Use High Quality Filament
You’d be surprised how much the quality of your filament can make a difference in your final print quality. There are many users who have changed filament to a reliable, trusted brand, and seen their 3D printing experience really turn positive.
- Purchase some high quality filament, don’t be afraid to spend a little extra
- Order a number of highly rated filament and find the one which works best for your projects
- Get filament which has a rough texture like marble, or wood which hides layer lines better
The smooth filament will actually make the surface smooth, which will reduce the appearance of lines.
6. Adjust Model Orientation
Model orientation is another key factor that can help you in reducing the layer line in 3D printing. If you don’t know the optimal orientation for your models, this can result in layer lines showing up a lot more visibly.
It’s not as effective as reducing your layer height or nozzle diameter, but once you have implemented the previous factors, this one can give you that extra push for 3D prints without layer lines.
Another thing to keep in mind is the best resolution we can get in certain directions, whether it is the XY plane or the Z axis. The resolution in the XY plane is determined by your nozzle diameter because material is extruded in lines from that opening.
On the Z-axis, we are looking at each layer, or the layer height, which can go down as far as 0.07mm in most home-owned 3D printers, so that resolution is a lot finer than in the XY plane.
This means that if you want to reduce layer lines as best as you can, you want to orient your model in a way where the finer details are going to print along the vertical (Z) axis.
- You want to try to use an orientation which creates the most level planes rather than arching shapes
- The less angles in your model orientation, the less layer lines should show up
- It can be quite difficult to balance optimal orientation factors since there are conflicting orientations
An example would be a model of a sculpture, with facial features. You would want to print this vertically because the facial features require serious detail.
If you 3D printed this diagonally or horizontally, you would find it hard to get that same level of detail.
7. Avoid Temperature Fluctuations
Avoiding temperature fluctuations is another important factor, especially when printing materials like ABS.
Filament reacts to heat by expanding and shrinking, so if you have wide enough temperature fluctuations, you can reduce your print quality, where layer lines may be more visible.
As they would not be getting the right temperature to cool down, and the surface would stay rough with visible lines.
- As mentioned previously, ensure your printing environment has a steady running temperature that isn’t too cold.
- Check that your PID controller is working, which controls temperature fluctuations (shown in the video below)
If the temperature fluctuation problem gets solved, you will start to see more smooth prints with less visible line patterns.
8. Correct Over-Extrusion
This can happen when the temperature is too high and the filament is melting more than usual. Another cause is from your extrusion multiplier or flow rate being changed, at a higher value than normal.
Anything that can cause your filament to be pushed faster, or more liquid can lead to over-extrusion which doesn’t fare too well for your 3D print quality, and especially 3D printing with no layer lines.
This over-extrusion will start depositing more filament on the print surface.
You can start to see more visible layers as your layers won’t have enough time to cool down before the next layer is extruded.
What you need to do is follow the following steps:
- Reduce your extruder temperature gradually until you have the optimal printing temperature
- You can implement a temperature tower to test different temperatures with your filament
- Make sure your cooling fans are working properly
- Speed & temperature are closely related, so if your temperature is high, you can also increase the speed
Other Methods to Remove Layer Lines
Post-processing is a great method of removing layer lines from your 3D prints. When you see those seriously smooth 3D print models on YouTube or just around the internet, they are usually smoothed other using various techniques.
Those techniques usually boil down to:
- Sanding Your Prints: This does an amazing job at getting rid of layer lines and just making your parts very smooth.
There are many different levels of sanding paper to give you a finer finish. You can also use a wet sanding method for extra shine.
- Covering it Polish: You can polish the 3D print to make it look smooth. One of the most widely used polish sprays is Rustoleum, which you can get from any hardware stores.
Just to bring the article together, the best method to reduce your layer lines is to decrease your layer height and use a smaller nozzle diameter.
After that you want to dial in your temperature settings, control your overall temperature settings in the room, and use some high quality filament.
Make sure your 3D printer is well-tuned and maintained so mechanical issues don’t contribute to bad print quality. For that extra push, you can implement post-processing methods to really smooth your prints over.
Once you follow the action points in this article, you should be well on your way to 3D printing without layers.
The 20 Most Common 3D Printing Problems (Part 1)
Good afternoon dear 3D Today community! I would like to present you a translation of the article Troubleshooting Guide to 20 Common 3D Printing Problems, which will be divided into 2 parts.
Everyone has problems with printing. We had enough of them to analyze and find solutions for the 20 most common 3D printing problems. In this article, we share our experience and hope that now you do not have to spend extra time diagnosing and solving problems that have arisen.
If you cannot determine what the problem is, compare it with the description.
3D Printing Issue #1: Warp - First Layer Peeling
Issue Description
The print is lifting up on the base of the model and does not stick to the platform. This problem can also cause horizontal cracks in the top sections of the printout.
Why did the problem occur?
Deformation of the print base is due to the nature of the plastic. ABS and PLA plastic cools very quickly and this is what can cause the first layer to come off.
Solve 3D printing problem: Printout warped
1. Use heated bed. The easiest solution to this problem is to use a heatbed and set the temperature just below the melting temperature of the plastic. If you set the temperature correctly, the first layer will not come off the platform. The printer bed temperature is often set automatically by the slicer. The recommended temperature for your plastic is listed on the side of the package or reel.
2. Use adhesive . If your printout is lifting around the edges, apply a thin layer of glue (or hairspray) to the platform to increase adhesion.
3. Try another platform. Change the platform to a platform with more adhesion. Manufacturers like Lulzbot use a PEI (Polyetherimide) coating that provides a good grip even without the use of glue. XYZPrinting Some printers include a few pieces of thermal tape for the liner. This is a good solution for cool platforms. Zortrax 3D choose a different solution - a perforated backing to which the printout adheres, thereby relieving the user of the problem of deformation at the base.
4. Calibrate the platform. Improper platform calibration can also affect the print quality of the first layer. Check the level of the platform and correct the height if necessary.
5. Increase contact between printout and platform. Often this problem also occurs due to insufficient contact between the model and the substrate. It can be easily corrected using the printer software by adding a skirt or backing.
6. Optimize temperature settings. If none of the methods worked, check the advanced settings of the printer software and the printer itself. Try increasing the platform temperature by 5 degrees.
7. Pay attention to the fan settings. As a general rule, the fans should switch to full power as soon as the print reaches a height of 0.5 millimeters, but you can increase the height to 0.75 millimeters to allow the layers to cool naturally.
8. Even if your printer has a heated bed, it is recommended that you use glue (or varnish) and constantly adjust the bed level.
3D Print Warping: Checklist to Avoid Problems
- Use Heated Platform
- Use Glue (Varnish) for More Adhesion
- Instead of Glass Platform, Use Kapton/Heat Tape/Adhesive/Varnish
- Calibrate Platform or substrate
- Adjust temperature and fan settings
3D printing issue #2: First layer misalignment (Elephant foot)
Problem description
The base of the model is slightly off.
Why did the problem occur?
Typically, the base of the model shifts due to the weight of the print, which puts pressure on the first layer when the lower layers have not yet had time to cool. Often happens with heated bed printers.
3D Printing Solution: First Layer Offset
1. Correct balance. To get rid of the problem of first layer displacement, the printed models must be cooled enough to support the weight of the entire structure. Here you should be careful: excessive hypothermia can lead to deformation of the first layer. Finding a balance is hard enough. Start by lowering the platform temperature 5 degrees (but no more than 20 degrees below the recommended temperature). If Bottom / Top Thickness is set to 0.6 millimeters, turn on the fan immediately at a height slightly lower.
2. Platform level. Most 3D printing problems are related to the wrong platform level. For each printer, there is a specific approach for platform level calibration. Check the manufacturer's recommendations to determine what you need. Print out a calibration cube and look at the quality of the plastic feed. The calibration cube will help you determine if the plastic has been laid flat, and if the nozzle is too close to the platform and scrapes the melted plastic, or too high causing the plastic to bubble.
3. Raise the nozzle. Raising the nozzle a little can often help. The main thing is not to raise it too high.
4. Smoothen the corners of the model. If all else fails, try chamfering the corners of the model base. Of course, this is only possible if you created the model yourself or if you have access to the source file. Start with 5mm and 45º bevel and experiment to get the best result.
3D Printing First Layer Offset: A Checklist to Avoid Problems
- Balance Platform Temperature and Fan Speed
- Raise Printer Platform
- Check Floor Height
- Make model corners smoother : Other problems with the first layer
- Check the level of platform
- Check the height of the nozzle
- Clean the platform
- Use the glue
- Problem 4: Offset layers in model
Problem Description
Layers shift in the middle of the printout.
The printer straps are not tight enough. The top plate is not attached and moves independently of the bottom plate. One of the rods in the Z axis is not perfectly aligned
3D Printing Solution: Layers misaligned in the model
1. Check the belts. First of all, check how tight the straps are: they shouldn't hang loose, but they shouldn't be too tight either.
If you pull on the straps, you should feel a slight resistance. If you feel that the top strap is tighter than the bottom strap, this is a sure sign that they are not tight enough.
2. Check the cover. Check the cover, rods and other parts on top of the printer (if you have coreXY). Make sure all parts are properly fastened.
3. Check the z-axis screws. Many printer manufacturers use threaded studs more often than trapezoid screws, and while both do the job, the studs tend to bend over time. No need to disassemble the printer to check if the rods are straight. Simply use software such as Printrun to move the print head up and down. If one of the Z axis bars is bent, you will definitely notice it. Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to straighten a bent stud, but on the other hand, this is a great reason to replace old threaded rods with trapezoidal screws.
Supreme displacement: Checklist
- Check belts tension
- Check if the upper cover is moving
- Enterly, make the studs on the zeri
description description problems
Gaps in the model appear due to the fact that some layers are missing (partially or completely).
The printer was unable to produce the required amount of plastic to print the missing layers. In 3D printing, this problem is also known as under-extruding. The essence of the problem may lie in the plastic itself (for example, a different diameter of the material), in the coil, in the feed mechanism (extruder) or in a clogged nozzle.
Friction can cause plastic to get stuck. It could also be that the z-axis screws (studs) are not properly aligned with the linear bearings.
There may also be a problem with the screws (studs) in the Z axis and with the bearings themselves.
3D Printing Solution: Missing Layers
1. Mechanical Check . If suddenly you find missing layers in the print - it's time to take a little care of your printer. Start by checking the screws (studs) and make sure they are firmly attached to the bearings or clamps.
2. Check rod alignment. Check that all screws (studs) are aligned and not misaligned.
Turn off the power and gently move the print head along the X and Y axes. If there is any resistance, then there is some problem. It is easy enough to understand what exactly the problem lies in - a slightly bent rod or bearings.
3. Worn bearings. Worn bearings make noise. You may also feel the rattle of the print head, while the printer vibrates slightly. In this case, turn off the power and move the print head along the X and Y axes to find out where the worn bearing is.
4. Check the oil. Remember to regularly lubricate the moving parts of the printer. Sewing machine oil is ideal for lubrication - you can buy it at any hardware store at an affordable price. Before applying oil, make sure the studs (screws) are clean. If the studs(screws) have dirt or print material residue, clean them.
Then connect to the printer via a program (eg Pronterface) to move the printhead in X and Y and check that the studs are evenly lubricated. If you apply a little more oil, just wipe off the excess.
5. Underextruded . The last cause of the problem may be insufficient extrusion. There can be many solutions to this problem, and all of them are described in Section 9.
Checklist
- Check the printer mechanism to make sure the moving parts are tight.
- Recheck printer design and alignment
- Check for worn bearings and bent pins
- Use some oil to lubricate parts
3D printing issue #6: Cracks in tall objects
Problem description
Cracks on the sides of the model, most commonly in tall models.
The problem can occur unexpectedly, and most often occurs in large printers, especially if you do not monitor their work.
The material cools faster on the upper layers, because the heat from the platform does not reach the required height. Because of this, the adhesion of the upper layers is lower.
3D Printing Solution: Cracks in Tall Objects
1.
Extruder Temperature . Start by increasing the extruder temperature - 5-10ºC is best. On the side of the plastic box you will find the highest temperature for plastic, try not to raise the temperature to this value.
2. Fan direction and speed . Double check your fans and make sure they are pointed at the model. If the direction is correct, reduce their speed.
Checklist
- Check the maximum possible temperature of the extruder and increase the current temperature by 10ºC in one attempt.
- Check the direction and speed of the cooling fans.
3D Printing Issue #7: Holes in the top layer
Description of the issue
Holes and gaps in the top surface of the printout.
The two most common causes of this problem are improper top coat cooling and top coat not thick enough.
Solution to 3D printing problem: Holes on the top layer
1.
Thread (filament) diameter . Often the problem happens with plastic with a diameter of 1.75 mm. Holes in the top layer are a problem with all 3D printers, but they happen more often with printers that use 1.75mm filament than with printers that print with filament larger than 2.85mm.
2. Check the location of the fan . Cooling can cause this problem, so check the fans first. When the printer starts printing, the fans are at their lowest speed or off. After printing the first layer, the fans start to work. Check if they start working and also check if they continue working when printing is finished. If all is well, double-check if the direction of the fan is set correctly - they should blow over the model.
3. Set fan speed in G-Code. Another cooling issue is related to excessive plastic in the top layer. It must cool quickly so as not to fall between the already printed supporting elements. The fan speed can be adjusted with G-Code ( is usually G-Code for Fan On is M106 and M107 Fan Off ).
Also set the fan speed to maximum for the upper layers.
For example, for a 1cm x 1cm cube, the height of the top layer would be 0.1mm. In this case, when generating a G-code through CURA for Prusa i3, the G-code indicates that the number of layers for the cube is 100. Considering that we specified heights of 0.6 mm for the top and bottom layers, it is worth editing the value to LAYER: 94
4. Increase the thickness of the top layer . One of the simplest solutions to the problem is to increase the thickness of the top layer. In most applications, you will be able to adjust the thickness using the ‘Bottom / Top Thickness setting’ advanced settings. You need to increase the thickness of the top and bottom layers up to 6 times the other layers and up to 8 times for smaller nozzles and plastics. If the layer height is 0.1mm, then the height of the top and bottom layers should be 0.6mm. If there are still holes and bald spots in the top layer, increase the thickness to 0.
8mm.
Cheklist:
- Use a larger diameter
- Mrive that the direction and speed of the fans are correct
- manually set the speed of the fans
- increase the thickness of the upper layer
Description of the problem
Cobwebs or hairs appear between model elements when printing.
When the printer head moves across an open surface (without extrusion), i.e. from one object to another, the plastic flows out of the nozzle.
3D printing solution: Hairs, webs
1. Turn on retract . Retraction is an important factor for the quality of the finished model and can be enabled in the slicer. It functions quite simply and works by pulling the filament back into the nozzle before the head starts to move. The bottom line is that it prevents plastic from flowing out of the nozzle, which creates a "spider web" between objects.
2. Retraction activation in settings . Most apps like Cura offer pull activation in settings and this is set by default. However, if you want more options, you can customize them further. For example, you can set the minimum head path before activating retraction.
3. Minimum distance (mm) . If retraction is not working correctly, the easiest way to fix this is to reduce the minimum distance. Reduce it by 0.5mm until hairiness disappears. Activate retraction (retract) to increase the speed of printing.
4. Just cut them off. Not the most sophisticated solution, but it has the right to life. Carefully cut the web.
Cheklist:
- Turn on pulling
- Set up the minimum distance before pulling
- Cut the spider with a scalpel
Problem with 3D seal #9: insufficient extruding
000 000 000 9000 the extruder cannot extrude enough material (or cannot do it fast enough).
This leads to the fact that the layers are too thin, unwanted bald spots appear in the layers or the layers are completely absent).
This problem has several causes. First of all, the thread diameter may not match the diameter set in the slicer. Also, the amount of extruded material may be lower due to incorrectly configured firmware. Another problem is that the nozzle can become clogged and this will cause under extrusion.
3D Printing Solution: Underextruding
1. Check filament diameter . Start with the simplest solution - check the filament diameter settings in your slicer. If you are not sure about the filament diameter and the recommended temperature, check the information on the packaging.
2. Measure thread . If you still can't get the desired result and filament separation remains a problem, use a caliper to check the filament diameter. After measurement, adjust the settings of the slicing software. ( author's note - if you have a bowden hotend, then you need to unscrew the fitting from the hotend, enter the command (for example, in Pronterface) M302 : Allow cold extrudes and extrude a meter of plastic.
If more or less is extruded, then you have an incorrect number steps per mm for the extruder If you have a direct hotend, then you need to unscrew the nozzle ( the nozzle can only be unscrewed when it is hot! ). It is also worth noting that even with the correctly set steps per mm value, when retracting, the distance traveled will be less than when extruding. This is because more resistance is experienced when retracting )
3. Check print head . After starting printing, most printers lift the print head off the model base. Check if the nozzle is clean.
4. Set the extrusion factor to . If there is no difference between the actual extrusion diameter and the software settings, check the extrusion multiplier settings (or flow rate or flow compensation), they may be too low. Each slicing application solves the problem differently, but try increasing the ratio by 5% and restarting the print process.
5. Open the Edit Process Settings window in Simplify3D and go to the Extruder tab - the extrusion factor should be set to 1.
0 which corresponds to 100%. Open the Material tab in Cura and increase the Flow settings (you may need to enable Flow in the Preferences window).
Cheklist:
- Check the diameter of the Philament
- Use the caliper to double -check the diameter of the Philament
- Check whether
- increase the extruding coefficient by 5%
Description of the problem
Excessive extrusion means that the printer is supplying more material than needed. This affects the fact that the printout has excess filament.
Solution to 3D printing problem: Overextruding
This problem is usually caused by the slicer's extrusion or flow ratio being too high.
1. Extrusion ratio . Open the slicer and check that you have selected the correct extrusion ratio.
2. Flow settings. If everything is correct with the extrusion ratio, reduce the Flow parameter in your printer software settings.
Checklist :
- Check if the extrusion factor is set correctly
- Reduce the flow settings of the filament
We are waiting for your comments on the translation.
Happy New Year everyone!
Problems, defects, 3D printing errors and solutions
Often during the operation of a 3D printer, problems may arise due to which defects appear on the finished model. Or instead of a neat product, plastic noodles suddenly appear on the table.
In fact, the causes of defects can be conditionally divided into 2 types - these are physical and software.
Physical ones are those that arise due to problems with the mechanics or any other causes that can be eliminated physically. These include problems with printer mechanisms (belt tension, backlash), clogged or deformed nozzle, incorrect table geometry, etc.
Software - these are defects that occur due to incorrect slicer settings or, less often, errors in the printer firmware.
For example, incorrectly selected print speed, retract settings, incorrectly selected temperature for plastic, etc.
Very rarely, the problem may lie in the wrong or “flying” printer firmware (although usually the printer simply will not start then), overheating of some boards during printing, etc. These are rather special cases, so we will not consider them.
Model peels off or does not stick to platen
This is the most common 3D printing problem. Every 3D printer has had a case when the first layer treacherously rolls, clinging to the extruder, or the most offensive - when it tears off a partially printed model from the table. The first layer must stick tightly otherwise nothing will be printed.
Gap between table and nozzle too large
This is the most common reason. You just need to set the correct gap between the table and the nozzle.
Modern printers often use an auto-calibration (auto-leveling) table system or an auxiliary table leveling program.
To calibrate such printers, use the instructions. If there is no manual, it can be downloaded from the manufacturer's website.
If you have a simple printer without auto-calibration, a self-assembly or KIT kit, use a probe or a piece of paper folded in half to calibrate. The probe should be slightly pressed against the table by the nozzle. Before calibration, the table and extruder must be heated. Align the table surface over each adjustment screw (there may be 3 or 4) in turn, and only then check the center point.
If you're having trouble getting your table surface perfectly level, try raft printing. Raft is a thick substrate in several layers that is printed under the model. It will help smooth out the slight curvature of the table.
A small cheat sheet to determine the correct gap on the first layer
Plastic with poor adhesion
Some types of plastic, due to various reasons, such as large shrinkage, do not adhere well to the surface of the printing platform.
In this case, try using stickers or special 3D adhesives to improve adhesion between the table and the first layer of plastic.
In the early days of 3D printing, there were experiments with different homemade 3D adhesive recipes. ABS diluted in acetone, BF glue, sugar syrup and even beer. Some experiments have been successful. Until now, some enthusiasts use some types of hairspray or glue sticks as 3D glue. But still they are inferior in their properties to industrial 3D adhesives.
Some types of high temperature plastics with a high percentage of shrinkage (ABS, Nylon, etc.) may peel off the table during printing. This is due to uneven cooling and “compression” of the model (the lower layers have already cooled down, but the upper ones have not yet). For such plastics, it is imperative to use a 3D printer with a heated table and a closed case.
Plastic temperature too low
The hotter the plastic is when it exits the nozzle, the better it will adhere to the print bed.
It is better to print the first 5-10 layers at a higher temperature (+ 5-10 degrees) and turn off the blower fan.
Wrong first layer settings (speed and thickness)
A thicker layer sticks easier, so the standard first layer is 0.3mm thick. With an increase in print speed, the heating block may simply not have time to heat the plastic to the desired temperature and it will stick to the table worse. Before printing, check the speed and thickness settings of the first layer in the slicer.
A lot depends on how the 3D printer prints the first layer. Try to control the printing of the first layer and only then leave the printer to work alone.
Plastic does not choke from nozzle
The printer has already begun to print, but the print table remains empty. Or part of the model did not print.
Clogged nozzle
In 3D printing, a nozzle is a consumable.
The nozzles are clogged or worn out (frequency depends on the type of plastic). The simplest thing is to replace the nozzle. But if there was no spare at hand, you can try to clean the old one. To do this, there is a whole set of thin needles. Or you can heat a clogged nozzle above the melting point of the plastic and “burn out” the blockage. But later it is still better to replace the nozzle.
Low temperature nozzle
You need to increase the temperature of the extruder in the slicer settings or check the thermistor and heating block. Sometimes the thermistor may not read the temperature correctly due to a malfunction or incorrect 3D printer firmware settings.
If the problem occurs after replacing the thermistor - contact the manufacturer or read articles about PID tuning.
Empty extruder
As the extruder heats up, plastic begins to ooze out of the nozzle. Because of this, the extruder may start printing half empty.
Because of this, part of the first layer is not printed. You can push the plastic manually by simply pushing the bar into the nozzle. Or solve this problem programmatically - in the slicer, add a contour print around the model (one line).
Some manufacturers and 3D enthusiasts add a line print on the edge of the table at the beginning of each GCode. This is done so that there is plastic in the nozzle by the time the model is printed.
Feed mechanism does not push through plastic
The plastic pushes the feed mechanism to the extruder - a motor with a special pulley put on the shaft. If for some reason the plastic is not pushed through (nozzle clogged, extruder temperature low, etc.), then the pulley “gnaws” through the bar. You need to push the plastic bar with your hands or cut off the damaged piece.
Elephant foot
The first layers of the model are wider and protrude beyond the boundaries of the model. This is due to the fact that the upper layers put pressure on the first ones that have not yet cooled down and flatten them.
High table temperature
Due to the too high temperature of the table, the lower layers remain soft for a long time. Try lowering the table temperature. It is better to reduce gradually (in increments of 5 degrees). You can try to turn on the blower when printing the first layers.
Small gap between nozzle and platen
If, when printing the first layer, the nozzle is too close to the table, then excess plastic will be forced out. After a few coats, this will not be as noticeable, but can lead to the effect of an “elephant's foot”.
Plastic re-extrusion
When too much material is squeezed out of the nozzle, the walls of the model are not smooth, but bumpy, with sagging.
The solution is software - in the settings of the slicer, you need to set the material feed rate (fluidity) to a lower value. The average value is 95-98%.
It is worth checking the diameter of the rod.
If its size is greater than 1.75, then the plastic will be squeezed out more than necessary.
Plastic underextrusion
The plastic is squeezed out too little, because of this, gaps may appear between the layer. The finished model will be fragile and fragile.
Wrong thread diameter
Check the filament diameter in the slicer settings. Sometimes, instead of the popular 1.75, the default is 2.85.
Incorrect feed rate settings
Check the fluidity settings in the slicer. The average should be 95-98%.
Clogged nozzle
Something could get into the nozzle and partially block the exit of the plastic. Visually, the plastic will choke from the nozzle, but in a smaller amount than necessary for printing.
Hairiness or cobwebs on finished model
Thin threads of plastic protrude from the outer wall of the model (most often on one side).
The defect appears due to the flow of plastic from the nozzle during idle movement.
Insufficient retract
A retract is a slight pull of a plastic filament from an extruder. Due to the retract when the extruder is idle (from layer to layer or from model to model), heated plastic does not drip from the nozzle. For some flowable plastics (eg PETG) the speed and amount of retraction must be increased.
"Hairiness" can be easily removed by grinding or cutting off the threads with a sharp scalpel.
High temperature extruder
The higher the extruder temperature, the more fluid the plastic becomes. It is important to find a balance so that the plastic is not too liquid and sticks well in layers.
In the selection of the optimal extruder temperature, a test model - a tower - helps a lot. It clearly shows how plastic behaves when printed at different temperatures.
.
Temperature test
Top "perforated" or uneven
The top of the model is bumpy or with holes.
The problem may arise if the top of the model is flat. For example, like a cube.
Insufficient airflow
When printing the top plane (cover), the plastic does not have time to cool down and remains too liquid. Because of this, the threads are torn and holes are formed. Increase the fan speed on the last layers.
Few top layers
The top of the print may be too thin and deform as a result. Check slicer settings. The number of upper layers is not recommended to be set less than 6.
Fill percentage low
If the infill percentage is too low, then the top layer will simply have nothing to rely on. Increase the fill percentage in the slicer settings.
Model deformation
Some parts of the model seem to have melted in some places or on one side. The problem most often occurs when printing with PLA plastic. The defect appears due to the fact that the plastic does not have time to cool and deforms.
Insufficient airflow model
Turn the fans on to maximum. If their power is not enough (in some printers, the fan is located only on one side), you can put a regular desktop fan and direct it to the 3D printer table.
Small model
Small models are difficult to blow well. Try to print small items alongside larger ones, or place several identical models in different corners of the table. So the plastic will have more time to cool.
Layer offset
Layers shift along the x or y axis during printing.
Print head jam
Turn off the printer and try to move the extruder along the x and y axes with your hands. The extruder must move freely. If there are jams, check the mechanics of the printer. Bearing wear or the curvature of the shafts may be to blame.
Electronics overheating
Sometimes electronics problems can be to blame for misaligned layers.
The most common cause is overheating of the drivers or too low current exposed to them.
Table top is loose
This is most often seen in 3D printers with glass. During printing, the nozzle may hit the model and move the glass slightly. Before printing, check if the glass or other printing surface is well fixed on the heating table.
Skip layers
Small holes are visible on the print, or the shell of the model is not continuous.
Teflon tube deformed
There are 2 types of thermal barriers - all-metal and with a Teflon tube. If overheated, the Teflon tube may deform. Plastic will pass through it, but in a smaller amount.
Low extruder temperature or high print speed
If the extruder is not heated enough, then the plastic will not be liquid enough and simply will not have time to be forced through the nozzle. The higher the print speed, the higher the extruder temperature should be.
Sometimes the outer walls print well, but the infill is “torn”. In this case, slow down the infill print speed in the slicer.
Model bundle
Cracks form on the surface of the printout during or after printing. Cracks can be large or very small. Most often, this problem occurs with plastics with a high percentage of shrinkage - ABS or Nylon.
Sudden temperature difference (if model delaminates during printing)
With a sharp temperature difference (for example, a draft), part of the model cools down faster. This leads to uneven shrinkage and incorrect distribution of internal stress. For plastics with low shrinkage, this is not critical. But if the shrinkage percentage is more than a few percent, the model may burst in layers.
For printing with such plastics, it is recommended to use a printer with a closed housing. If this is not possible, try to avoid drafts and sudden temperature changes in the room where the 3D printer prints as much as possible.
Print temperature
Due to too low printing temperatures, the layers may not “stick” well to each other. Raise the print temperature in the slicer settings.
Hardening (if the model cracks after printing)
Sometimes cracks appear on the model a few days after printing. This is due to uneven distribution of internal stress after cooling. You can try to “harden” the finished product.
For hardening, the model is placed, for example, in an oven, and heated to the softening temperature of the plastic. After that, the heating is turned off and the oven is left to cool slowly with the model inside. Due to this, the stress inside the print is distributed more evenly. But accuracy is very important in this method - if you make a little mistake with the temperature, the finished product can “float”.
Ringing
In places where the extruder changed direction, ripples are visible. Most often it looks like a shadow around the “sharp” protruding elements of the model.
Mechanical problems
Sometimes the problem occurs due to extruder play. Check if the extruder mount to the rails is loose. Be sure to check the tension of all belts.
High print speed or high accelerations
Moving the extruder too fast can cause vibrations that cause ripples on the wall of the model. The lighter the weight of the extruder, the less noticeable the ripples will be. To get rid of ringing, simply reduce the print speed in the slicer settings.
Slots for thin-walled models (not solid shell)
The thin wall of the model is not solid, but consists of two thin walls with a narrow gap between them. This problem is often faced by fans of printing "cutting" for baking.
Left model with wall defect, right without
Wall thickness and nozzle diameter mismatch
If the wall thickness is 1 mm, and the nozzle diameter is 0.4, it turns out that for a solid wall, 2 nozzle passes are few, and 3 are already many.
The result will depend on the slicer algorithm, but most often you will get 2 walls with a thin slot in the middle (the slicer cannot change the wall thickness). The solution to the problem may be a slight refinement of the 3D model or the use of a different slicer.
Algorithms for calculating 3D models are constantly being improved and refined, and now this problem is less common.
When modeling, take into account not only the thickness of the nozzle, but also the percentage of “overlapping” of lines on each other. If you have a nozzle with a diameter of 0.4 - make the wall in your model not 0.8, but 0.7 - 0.75.
Wrong model geometry
When instead of a circle an oval is obtained, and instead of a square, a semblance of a rhombus is obtained.
The main reason is malfunctions in the mechanics of the printer. Be sure to check:
Belts
Check belt tension in x and y.
Over time, belts stretch and may need to be tightened or replaced. Each 3D printer has its own way of tightening the belt. If the belts are slightly stretched, you can tighten them with the help of a "spring".
Loose pulleys, etc.
Check if all bolts and nuts are tight. Are there backlashes. Pay special attention to tightening the pulleys located on the motors along the x and y axes.
Sagging of some parts of the model
Some parts are not printed, broken, or instead of a neat surface, a swollen plastic snot is obtained.
No support for overhangs
A 3D printer cannot print in the air, so if there are overhanging elements in the model, you need to set supports - supports. The slicer can set the necessary support itself, you need to check the appropriate box in the settings.
When printing with soluble support, you can set the gap between the model and support - 0.
This will make the surface smoother. If the support material and the model are the same, you need to add a small gap. Otherwise, it will be difficult to separate the support from the model.
Divide model
Sometimes the supports can take more plastic than the model. In this case, to save material and time, it will be more convenient to cut the model. If you have more than one 3D printer, then the model will print several times faster.
When cutting the model, you can leave grooves or mortgages so that the pieces of the model are connected without displacement.
Totals
In this article, we talked about the most popular 3D printing defects and how to solve them. Don't be intimidated by such a long list. Some problems are rare and you are unlikely to encounter them.
There is a list of problems that arise due to the design features of a 3D printer, so try to choose a printer that suits your needs. To do this, you need to understand what products and what material you need.
Learn more
Description of the problem
The first layer does not look right, some fragments are missing. There are unnecessary lines at the bottom.
Why did the problem occur?
Such 3D printing problems usually indicate that the platform level has not been set correctly. If the nozzle is too far from the platform, unnecessary lines often appear at the bottom of the printout or the first layer does not stick. If the nozzle is too close to the platform, this can cause formation bubbling.
Also note that the platform must be clean. Fingerprints on the platform may cause the first layer to not adhere to the platform.
3D printing problem solution: Other first layer problems
1. Set the platform level. Each printer has its own platform level configuration process. For example, the latest Lulzbots use auto-calibration, while Ultimaker offers step-by-step manual calibration. But to set up the Prusa i3 platform level, you will need to spend a lot of time studying the issue.
2. Set nozzle height. If the nozzle is too high, the plastic will not stick to the platform, if too low, the nozzle will scrape the printout.
3. Clean the platform. Be sure to clean the printer platform regularly, especially if you are using adhesive. Fingerprints, dust and adhesive residue affect how well the model sticks to the platform.
4. Use glue (varnish). Apply a thin layer of adhesive to the platform to increase the adhesion of the model to the platform. Remember to clean the platform regularly as excess glue can cause the opposite effect.
5. Use textured underlay for non-heated printer platforms.
Other problems with 3D seal: Cheklist to avoid problems
