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3D printed tool drawer organizer
Toolbox best 3D printing files・Cults
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Gridfinity: 3D Printed Super Quick Tool Storage And Retrieval
- by: Dave Rowntree
Our favourite cyborg [Zack Freedman] has been stumbling over a common problem many of us will be all too familiar with — that of tool storage and the optimal retrieval thereof. His solution is the Gridfinity: A modular workshop organisation system.
Never chase your pen around on the desk againIn [Zack]’s words, the perfect workshop has tools and materials arranged in the following way: (a) every item has a dedicated home within reach of where you’ll use it. (b) items are exposed and in position for instant grabification. (c) the storage system shields you from accidents like spills and injuries.
(d) it is effortless to setup and easy to put back and rearrange. An instant-access storage solution such as the Gridfinity is designed not to help you store more stuff, but finish more projects. The idea is very simple — display your stuff so that you can quickly find what you need and get back to the project as quickly as possible. We think these aims are pretty spot on!
From an implementation perspective, the system consists of a 3D printed base plate with a grid structure. It is angled internally so storage bins drop in, but are not easy to knock out. Storage units drop into the grid in various sizes and orientations, such that everything is contained within the grid’s outer boundary, so the whole assembly will fit inside a drawer with ease. Small part storage bins have a curved inner surface enabling one to easily scoop out a part when required. A partial lid on the top allows them to be stacked vertically if required.
Super-quick access to fully sorted stock – no more searchingWhilst the system is work in progress, there are still about a hundred different storage units, for anything from 3D printer nozzles to racks for tweezers.
Implemented as parameterised models in Fusion360, it is easy to tweak existing models for your stuff, or create totally new ones, from the supplied templates.
No discussion of tool organisation would be complete without first considering the king of tool organisation [Adam Savage], the principle of first order retrieval is a strong one. For a more in-your-face solution, you could go down the pegboard-on-wheels route, or perhaps if you’re less mobile and in a tight squeeze, then get comfortable with the French cleat and build something full custom right into the walls. Whatever solution you come up with, do share it with us!
STL file Drawer organizer・Download and 3D printing model・Cults
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3D Model Description
Hello friend, today I wanted to bring on my profile, drawer organizer, with many different modes, you can use it for small tools such as inserts, diodes, resistors, hex keys, screws, bolts, pins, and more.
The organizer is very large, has an impressive size, and can also be printed by printers with a compact 220x220. nine0007
The housing dimensions are 200 x 200 x 160 mm.
Handles are printed separately so as not to use a lot of media on the box, as for the box, to apply good supports, stable, but above all very easy to remove, enter well the parameters that will leave you on the images and you will get really good results.
On the organizer I made 4 legs to keep it on the ground, of course you can also not print them, but I recommend printing them in TPU instead, so the organizer will not move. nine0007
Each drawer has a compartment where a sheet of paper can be inserted to return the contents of the drawer, compartment dimensions 55 x 2.5 mm.
I also want to remind you that all my designs are bonded together and have a tolerance of 0.50 mm "standard tolerance for all printers", if you, like many others, do not know what tolerance your printer has, I suggest you download my admission test, it is in my profile.
As always I want to thank you for taking your time to review my project and if you found it interesting I suggest you take a look at my cults profile because you will find many interesting projects and I am sure that you will find something for you and I also remind you to leave me like if you appreciate my work. nineOl000 60 mm/s
3D Printer File Information
- 3D Design Format : STL Folder details close nine0010
- Drawer Organizer Case v1.stl
- Drawer Organizer Eight v1.stl
- Drawer Organizer Five v1.stl
- Drawer Organizer Four v1.stl
- Drawer Organizer Maniglia x8 v1.stl
- Drawer Organizer Nein v1.
stl nine0012 - Drawer Organizer One v1.stl
- Drawer Organizer Piede x4 v1.stl
- Drawer Organizer Seven v1.stl
- Drawer Organizer Six v1.stl
- Drawer Organizer Ten v1.stl
- Drawer Organizer Three v1.stl nine0012
- Drawer Organizer Two v1.stl
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Design 193
Downloads 659
Liked designs eighteen Subscribers 37 nine0007
Contact
Hello my name is Luigi, stage name Upcrid, I am a 3D designer, I use Fusion 360 and other related software, I have been doing this work for 3 years, in addition to this I am also a repairing technician of 3D printers, as well as the creator of my printer.
I hope my works you like, a hug and a good press friend.
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another cassette for small parts plus a couple of small items
Hi all!
I’ll immediately explain why “different”: this review was written in hot pursuit of another review from another author - mysku.club/blog/diy/64151.html
In the comments, I posted a model of such a box there and I was advised to create my own topic so that more people could see and download the model. Well, here is this topic :)
In addition to the cassette holder, I offer everyone a couple of little things for the household. All models are my own. All of them are available for download at the end of the review. Let's go :)
Let's start with the main thing - with the cassette player.
I must admit right away that I borrowed the main design from the author whose review I referred to at the beginning.
However, it’s still difficult to come up with something original here, and there’s no need, the thing is exclusively functional, not designer :) Why did I repeat this, and even write a new review - because the author of that review did not want to upload his model. nine0302 I threw in the main base of cells and boxing while participating in the comments on that review. And over the next few days I finished it a little.
Here's what I got back then, from the very beginning:
Above are intermediate trials :)
Everything here is similar to the design of the author of that review, but in addition, limiters are added at the top of each compartment that prevent the cell from falling out of the open state - in order to completely remove the cell, you need to lift its front side. And most importantly, all parameters could be set in a text file and then simply click the "Rebuild" button in Solidworks. Wall thickness, internal cell dimensions, number of cells per box, and even print gaps are all configurable in a simple text file.
nine0302 But there in the comments they wrote that it would be nice to be able to dock such boxes with each other. At the time, I replied that small fasteners in 3D printing presented certain difficulties, but later I decided to give it a try. And it turned out, in general, even not bad :)
This is what the latches look like (one-cell box in section, top view):
And this is how the boxes are linked (in section, top view):
The latches hold very well, to insert or remove one box from another, you need to apply normal force. The latches themselves are quite sufficient in terms of strength, they are unlikely to break even if the assembly of boxes crashes to the floor from a height of two meters :)
All parameters in the text file have been saved and a protrusion and a gap in the interbox latches have been added to them. But I had to suffer a little with these latches, trying different options and choosing the optimal gaps. Here is a bunch of intermediate samples:
In addition, I slightly changed the latches that hold the cells in the closed state - lowered them by a millimeter both inside the box and on the cells.
This improved the movement of the cell inside the box - the features, or rather the imperfection of 3D printing, make it necessary to use tricks when modeling. nine0302 At the moment, I have printed four cassettes - two with 12 cells and two with 24 cells.
I don’t see the point in making them anymore, given that now they can be combined into blocks of any size. I’ll start small boxes for various small things, and from large ones I’ll assemble the entire series of E24 resistors (up to ten megaohms, I don’t need more) :)
Well, this test pile of plastic for disposal:
By the way, it is better to print boxes with PLA plastic if you do not have a printer with a thermal camera. But the boxes are quite normally printed with ABS, so it makes sense to save a little on them :)
The second useful thing is a furniture leg made of chipboard 16 mm
So it turns out that from time to time I am forced to make something furniture at home.
Either a shelf for shoes in the hallway, then shelving, then a locker. I have long been aware that now in building supermarkets there is almost everything for everything, including for the independent manufacture of furniture - chipboard panels with a variety of laminate patterns, fittings, fasteners. They will even cut the sheets quite accurately if there is nothing to cut neatly and evenly at home. But here’s what I didn’t find when I needed it - these are small height-adjustable legs for furniture. Such to screw them to the end of the chipboard. And I had to invent them myself :)
Meet:
Fastened with two screws to a wall thickness of 16 mm:
From the outside it is hardly noticeable, especially if it is printed from plastic to match the color of the furniture (obviously not the right option in the photo :)):
The height from the floor to the end of the wall is adjustable from 11 mm:
up to 30 mm:
Durability, of course, depends on the type of plastic and printing parameters.
I printed in ABS with 50% infill and 4 (I think) perimeters with a 0.4mm nozzle. I tried to break the screw itself with my hands - I could not with quite a decent effort. But if suddenly someone needs absolutely, absolutely strength, then inside the legs almost to the entire depth, you can screw the M6 bolt with some effort:
Of course, it is useless to screw it in like that - its hat will not allow the leg to screw into its place. Therefore, you need to cut off the cap of the bolt (or cut off a piece of the M6 stud that is suitable in length) and saw through a slot for a flat screwdriver in its end:
And then everything becomes imperceptible and very solid:
Four of these legs have been holding a cupboard with dishes in the kitchen for the second year already :)
By the way, if you print from hard plastic such as PLA, then forget about screwing in the bolt. Well, or you need to change the model, making the inner hole a little larger so that the edges of the bolt threads only lightly touch the walls of the hole.
nine0007
The third thing is about furniture again
Well, everything is simple here, but it makes it very easy to assemble furniture from 16 mm chipboard boards. This is a guide for drilling holes in the end of a chipboard sheet.
Did you know that in our time, making simple furniture yourself is a piece of cake? Shelving for several shelves - one trip to the store and three hours of work :) At the same time, it is not even necessary to have some kind of super tool, a screwdriver or drill is quite enough. Fasteners and laminated chipboard - in a wide variety, there is nothing to saw off evenly - they will saw off in the store. Only one moment can overshadow this cloudless present - the need to connect chipboard sheets in the corners. Here you need to measure and drill holes very accurately so that it does not happen that one sheet climbs out after another by 0.5-1 mm :) And this is exactly what the guide is designed for. nine0302 To connect the side of one sheet with the end of the other, many fasteners have been invented.
For home use, the best option, in my opinion, is special screws - confirmations:
Picture from the Internet how it is applied:
Suppose we need to connect the lid and the wall of a homemade nightstand. We will connect with two chopsticks as guides (well, for more strength):
And two confirmations.
For confirmations, it is necessary to drill a through hole in the wall in one sheet, and a blind hole in the rib in the other. At the same time, in the second sheet, you need to drill the ribs in the middle (16 mm is not so much for screws so that you can move them to the side), and in the first sheet, 8 mm from the edge, that is, half the thickness of the first sheet. For chopsticks, both holes must be blind. The diameters of the drills, of course, must correspond to the chopsticks and confirmations :)
We outline and drill holes in the rib for confirmations:
We firmly press the guide and it ensures that the hole is exactly in the middle of the rib.
The ruler is not shown, but of course, you need to carefully measure the distance from the edge. The guide has ribs that lift it above the drilling site, this allows the chips to exit the holes. By the way, in the photo there is a special drill for confirmations.
One pair of holes is:
We also outline and drill holes for the chopsticks, only for drilling we put a limiter on the drill so that it doesn’t turn out that the chopik completely fell into this hole :)
Now we mark and drill the corresponding holes in the second plate:
Also, do not forget about the limiter when drilling holes for chopsticks.
Insert chopsticks, try on:
Putting the second plate on chopsticks:
And now you can pull off confirmations:
Such connections are quite strong, by the way.
Here is from the last one, when this guide came in handy again (just two or three weeks ago):
Initial models
I post all models in SolidWorks 2014 format and in STL.
Link to a folder in Google drive - drive.google.com/open?id=14ExIFRq1nGjWfqZP-RFCaS4IIeGyxJNq
In this folder:
- SW directory - source codes of all models in SolidWorks 2014, each in its own folder. Attention, the "equations.txt" file contains model parameters and is required for box and cell models!
- dsp_drilling.STL - drilling guide
- leg_base.STL - fixing furniture legs
- leg_leg.STL - the leg itself
- cell_30x65.STL - cell with an internal compartment size of 30x65 mm
- box_30x65_3x4.STL - box for 12 such cells (3 horizontally, 4 vertically)
- box_30x65_4x6.STL - box for 24 such cells (4 horizontally, 6 vertically)
The cells have a wall and bottom thickness of 0.8 mm (two perimeters with a 0.4 mm nozzle)
The thickness of the side and inner walls of the box is 0.8 mm, the back wall is 0.5 mm.
All models print easily without supports. nine0007
If someone needs STL-models in other sizes or with other parameters - write, I'll do it.
