3D circuit printing


3D-printed circuit boards: How they're made and why they matter

Once confined mainly to home-brew tinkering, circuit boards created via 3D printing are now practical for some manufactured products.

J.F. Brandon, BotFactory Inc.

In the past ten years, 3D Printing has gone from a niche prototyping tool to a process acceptable for mass production. Most of the recent hubbub has been about monolithic plastic and metals.  But new materials and processes have appeared to help create 3D-printed PCBs that meet long-standing engineering problems.

If the history of electronics manufacturing could be summarized in one phase, it would be, “Shrinking everything to nothing to squeeze out something faster.” The push towards miniaturization has been driven by the inviolable laws of nature – faster devices that consume less power require shorter electrical paths.

However, the printed circuit board is an outlier in the electronics world. PCBs still use basic drilling and plating processes perfected 50 years ago. That is not to say that PCB manufacturing is trivial or antiquated. But the investment in new PCB manufacturing methods is a pittance compared to the hundreds of billions put into chip fabs by IC makers such as TMSC and AMD.

It is worth looking at the details of PCBs and their construction. The word ‘printed’ in printed-circuit board only describes half of the process – the silkscreen masks are the only part that is printed. A PCB is originally copper foil on a rigid fiberglass laminate which is selectively etched, drilled, and plated using a set of silkscreens and chemical baths to produce the final product.

Examples of inkjet-printed circuitry made with a BotFactory SV2 PCB printer.

The sole purpose of the PCB is to reliably connect passive and active components and provide a reliable platform for integration or interactions with the rest of a product. For example, the PCB in the average computer keyboard connects electronic elements together, but it also must manage human interactions and provide a sound mechanical connection to the body of the product. In addition, PCBs must be designed so they can easily be stenciled with reflow solder paste and integrated into industrial surface-mount pick-and-place lines. Optical inspection and flying-probe systems require PCBs that can be easily analyzed and binned for repair or discard automatically. All in all, modern PCBs can play a variety of roles within the end products in which they are found. So it is worth considering new manufacturing processes that can expand the capabilities of PCBs.

PCBs have thermal, electrical, geometric and mechanical requirements that go beyond what most materials for 3D printing can offer. For example, the average $500 3D printer that uses Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) uses PLA, ABS and PETG which melt under the harsh gaze of any standard soldering station. Metal 3D printing techniques are designed to handle one material at one time. Yet PCBs require, at a bare minimum, a dense and conductive metal for conductors.

Three technical paths have appeared for PCB printing: inkjets, extrusion, and additive manufacturing (AM)-electroless plating. First consider ink-jetting. New nanoparticle and particle-free inks have allowed inkjet printing to go beyond CMYK inks and graphics. Inkjets can now lay down metal (overwhelmingly silver) inks in fine patterns on flexible materials. In combination with a polymer ink, it is possible to create PCBs with complex multilayer circuitry (blind and buried vias are trivial items) in only a few steps on a single machine.

The inherent advantage of creating PCBs layer-by-layer this way is that each layer can be tested and validated. The minimal level of processing simplifies the dispensing solder paste, part assembly, and testing for every layer. The disadvantages are that material dispensing via inkjet printing is slow relative to all other additive manufacturing processes– deposition speeds can be in the millimeters-per-hour range. It’s possible to create precise traces with inkjet printing (metal traces with 100-micron widths are commonly attainable). But the smaller droplets limit deposition speeds.

And there are problems with metal inks: Applying too much can cause bleeding and cracking during drying, thus limiting PCB fabrication speeds. Solderability is a particular blind spot – silver can wilt under standard pastes like SAC305, suffering from tin ‘scavenging’ silver during reflow. In addition, inkjet polymers melt at temperatures that standard PCBs easily manage. Fortunately, industry-accepted low-temperature tin-bismuth and indium-based solder pastes are compatible with inkjet-printed PCBs.

Today there are two PCB printers that use ink jetting – the BotFactory SV2 and the Nano Dimension DragonFly. Each printer uses the same process to create multilayer circuitry, although the BotFactory SV2 utilizes inexpensive thermal inkjet heads instead of the piezo heads found in the DragonFly. Nano Dimension has focused on printing for production, whereas BotFactory has emphasized integration of pasting and PCB assembly into a small unit, working on projects with the USAF to automate the entire process. In this regard, BotFactory is unique in the electronics industry and is the only commercial product below $20,000.

Single nozzle jetting

Inkjetting isn’t the only way that nanoparticles can be deposited to create circuitry. An alternative method extrudes lines onto flat surfaces and uses fused-deposition modeling to provide a polymer structure for the traces to inhabit. Pastes are notoriously difficult to control when creating fine traces and spaces, requiring precise control and extremely close contact with the substrate surface.

Here the target surface must be covered twice – first for mapping, then for pasting. The two-step procedure handicaps the scalability of the process for production. Pastes must be devoid of air pockets lest each bubble act as a kind of ‘spring’ and impede the extrusion process. The flip side of using viscous pastes is that metal-loading is higher and it’s possible to deposit metal in thicker layers, boosting conductivity and solderability right off the bat. However, at this time, silver is the overwhelming favorite material and thus suffers from the same constraints as inkjet-printed PCBs in regards to silver scavenging.

The first example of 3D printed electronics was demonstrated by Voxel8 in 2015. The printer used FDM and paste extrusion to create basic circuit traces. After delivering early beta systems, Voxel8 switched to industrial-scale fabrication with a broader focus on multi-material printing rather than just electronics. nScrypt has taken a similar tack, creating a more general tool that includes pasting as well as polymer extrusion to create three-dimensional objects with traces within the object.

Example of an nScrypt system extruding conductive traces on an FDM-printed substrate.

AM + electroless plating (also abbreviated as AMEP, or 3D-Print-and-Plate) is a completely new category of AM that combines existing additive manufacturing processes and well-understood electroless plating techniques. An object is printed via stereolithography (SLA) or fused-deposition modeling (FDM) using a distinct metal-loaded material that can be electroless-plated afterward. AMEP continues to be a topic of academic research. Last year, researchers at UCLA published results on using SLA to create multi-material prints that could be selectively plated. Using two vats of pure and metal-loaded polymers, the process enhances the existing premise of AM with no extra constraint on fabrication speed.

Palladium, a metal that is traditionally extremely expensive, normally serves as a seed material in this process. But on the other side of the world, UK researchers devised a way of printing less expensive metal on a new polyimide material. Polyimide (also known as Kapton) is highly prized by electrical engineers in flexible and printed electronics for its low thermal expansion and dielectric constant. UK researchers found UV energy can be used to chemically bond silver particles and the polymer chains, providing seeds for plating afterward.

The technology described above has not been commercialized, but the overall concept has been utilized for creating unique antennae at firms like Swissto12. There a high-resolution SLA print is made, coated, and then electro-plated (not electroless plated). Electroplating requires a current to initiate and control the plating process, whereas a PCB often has unconnected traces and vias that require plating.

Overall, the greatest challenge to AMEP is that it cannot create conductors within an object unless there are exposed holes or the PCB undergoes multiple dips into the plating baths. As it stands, the technology has the ability to meet all the technical requirements for high-performance PCBs, including ease-of-solderability and high-thermal tolerances.

What it’s not

There is some confusion about what is and isn’t ‘AM electronics,’ and certain lines have been drawn. In the AM industry overall, any process that uses subtractive processes is not additive manufacturing. So it is fair to argue that any process that builds circuitry on pre-existing substrates or augments AM with subtractive processes is not 3D-printed electronics. Consider the traditional PCB: UV-curable polymers mask copper foils, utilizing a process and materials seen in AM technologies like inkjet printing and stereolithography. By conveniently ignoring the drilling process for vias and shaping, one could argue that PCBs are made with AM when they clearly are not.

When an entire model is fabricated using AM, it typically has characteristics and form factors that go beyond what would be possible if subtractive fabrication is included. In other words, use of subtractive processes detracts from the entire point of adopting AM.

An example of a semi-additive process that is commonly cited as 3D-printed electronics is Laser Directed Structuring, a technique developed by LPKF. Essentially, an object consists of an injection-molded plastic that has been filled or coated by an organometallic compound. When a laser applies a circuit pattern to the surface, metallic seeds form and create an electroless nickel or copper plating. The technology is limited by the reach of the laser, inhibiting the possibility of allowing conductors to pass thru the object. Thus LDS parts are not true 3D PCBs by any means.

The same limitation also applies to aerosol jetting, a concept commercialized by Optomec. Here a carrier gas (nitrogen typically) jets out of a fine nozzle at high speed and carries a fine suspension of materials such as nanoparticle metal inks. The wide variety of viscosity, metal-loading and material choice makes aerosol jetting a candidate for creating sensors on objects, overcoming the limited choice of materials for LDS. As both processes utilize non-AM elements, they arguably do not create 3D-printed electronic devices.

Credible advances in materials, metals and polymers have made it possible to 3D-print PCBs that are useful in many applications today. However, the 3D-printed circuit board made in a few hours which is a perfect replica of a traditional PCB is the Mount Everest of AM. The most mature technique is inkjet printing; it comes closest to reaching the necessary geometric and electric properties, with materials advancing quickly to meet the thermal and mechanical needs. Extrusion is well-understood but hard to scale, and its fundamental capabilities are uneven. AM-EP is the dark horse in the race, combining old and new techniques to provide another path to the 3D PCB.

Example of how AM and Plating can be combined, courtesy of University of Leeds and Heriot-Watt University.

Ultimately, all technologies can be viable paths to reducing PCB size and shortening traces, yielding lighter devices in forms that would have been unthinkable just ten years ago.

BotFactory Inc.
www.botfactory.co/

A New Way To Produce PCBs With Your 3D Printer

  • by:
  • Tom Nardi

With the low-cost PCB fabrication services available to hackers and makers these days, we’ll admit that making your own boards at home doesn’t hold quite the appeal that it did in the past. But even if getting your boards professionally made is cheaper and easier than it ever has been before, at-home production still can’t be beat when you absolutely must have a usable board before the end of the day.

If you find yourself in such a situation, this new method of DIY PCB production detailed by [Adalbert] might be just what you need. This unique approach uses a desktop fused deposition modeling (FDM) 3D printer throughout all of its phases, from creating a stencil based on the exported board design, to warming the UV soldermask to accelerate the curing process. It may not be an ideal choice for densely packed boards with fine-pitch components, but could definitely see it being useful for many prototypes.

Small “bridges” need to be manually added to hold the stencil together.

[Adalbert] has done an excellent job of documenting the process through a step-by-step guide posted on Hackaday.io, and has also put together a video you can see after the break.

But if you’re looking for the short version, the process involves taking a 2D DXF from your PCB design software, converting it into three dimensions, and printing it out. This is then placed over a copper clad board that has been coated with soldermask, and a UV light source is used to expose it. Afterwards, isopropyl alcohol can be used to wash away the unexposed mask, leaving behind your PCB design.

You’ll still need to chemically etch the board, and if you’re using through-hole components, manually drill your holes. But compared to some of the old school methods of making your own boards, it’s relatively straightforward. This technique looks like it could also hold promise for small scale production, as the stencil can be reused indefinitely.

If your 3D printer is of the resin variety, don’t worry, you can make PCBs with those as well. We’ve also seen impressive boards produced with cheap laser engravers, as well as budget CNC routers.

Posted in 3d Printer hacks, PartsTagged pcb fabrication, stencil, UV soldermask

🔩 Best useful 3D objects you can make with a 3D printer・Cults

🔩 Best useful 3D objects you can make with a 3D printer

Download useful, practical and functional 3D models

Discover for our TOP of the best useful items for 3D printing in everyday life. Whether you want to make your life easier in the bathroom, in the kitchen, at home or at work, this list of 3D printer models has everything you need. Start life hacking right now with your 3D printer! nine0007

Pen and pencil holder

Free

GROVIE MONSTER

Free

Mechanical quick release phone stand

Free

Filament clip / Universal filament clip

Free

nine0008 Mobile phone holder in socket

Free of charge

Universal phone holder _ Samsung galaxy / Xiaomi Redmi

Free

Refrigerator Storage Box Fresh Spacer

Free

FLEXI BEETLE

Free

Egg separator (kitchen)

Free

Tripod smartphone

Free

MONEY CLIPS

Free

Bag Clips

Free

Bag stopper

1 €

Switcherang: Nintendo Switch 9 Joy-Con Grip0009

Free

Headset Holder

Free

PASTE PUSHER

Free

Cable Gland for Desktop Sit-Up

Free

Clamp with hand screw

Free

Cable clip

Free

Adjustable rugged waterproof box

Free

1.

75 mm "DAS FILAMENT" Filament Clip

Free

v2 sound amplifier

Free

Cool Squeeze - fan grip

Free

nine0008 Egg tray

Free

Walnut cracker [my grandmother's design].

Free

Bag Clip with Screw Cap (Modified Version2)

Free

Makeup organizer box

Free

GuitarPicks

Free

nine0008 Monster Cookie Cutter

Free

3DMX / Crocmark (Bookmark)

Free

Pistachio Opener

Free

Mini Vise

Free

Tape dispenser

Free

nine0008 Optimized G-clamp

Free

Salt and Pepper Text Shakers

Free

Phone Amplifier Hex

Free

Self-aligning Gimballed drink holder

Free

Solo Finger Pen

Free

Tools tray

Free

Print in Place Allen Key Holder Inspired by Wiha

Free

Cable management Hive

Free

Phone Stand with Cable Routing

Free

Turbine Faucet Watersaver

Free

Geometric phone holder

Free

DIRECT SQUEEZER

Free

Joycon & Knuckles

Free

Miyuka Beads Sorting Box

Free

Bird lemon squeezer/MAJ

Free

PILULER - weekly distributor

Quick Adjust G-Clamp With Universal Mount

Mini MicroSD Card Case

Gyro Motor Factory / Clock Factory


Here is a list of best STL files of useful and functional objects for 3D printing , all of these 3D creations are from the 3D file site Cults and are perfectly 3D printable .

This collection contains useful free or premium 3D models of to make your life easier. Designers from all over the world are facing the same challenges as you and have put their design skills to the service of with innovative, practical and above all 3D printable solutions!

There are 9 useful 3D prints in this TOP0219 has everything you need to make your daily life more efficient and practical . You'll find everything you need to amplify your phone's sound, clean things up, save toothpaste, repair... One of the criticisms often made about 3D printing is that creators only make useless things, this collection is - perfect example to prove otherwise. As evidence, the 3D printer and 3D file sharing platform allow 3D designers from all over the world to put their skills and design ideas to the service of all.

If you print the file for home, don't forget to show us how you use it by posting a photo of the result! This will help designers better understand the impact their ideas have on the daily lives of 3D printer owners.

3D printing for the newest ones. From A to Z. Kinematics.

In this article, we will understand what 3D printing is and what the kinematics of 3D printers are. nine0007

1. 3D printing. What does she taste like?

There are a lot of printing technologies, from FDM (FFF), which is used by more than 90% of printers on this portal, to SLA / DLP / LCD (with photopolymers) and SLS / SLM (powder sintering using powerful lasers)

At the initial stage, we are interested in FDM - layer-by-layer deposition of a molten rod. The picture below shows the hot end (Hot end) - that part of the 3D printer extruder where the rod is melted. nine0007

The plastic rod is fed through the Teflon tube and radiator into the thermal barrier, and through it into the heating block. It melts there and exits through the nozzle. The nozzle has a certain diameter, which is marked on it.

It is often made of brass, as the material is inexpensive and easy to process. The accuracy of printing depends on the nozzle. The smaller the nozzle, the more threads fit into one mm.

Heater and thermistor provide feedback for temperature control and regulation. That is, the voltage supply to the heater depends on what temperature the thermistor shows, and the processor compares it with the set one. nine0007

Next we see the heating block. A nozzle is screwed into it on one side, and a thermal barrier on the other.

The thermal barrier is used to minimize the heating of the plastic above the thermoblock.

[IMG]http://3d-makers.nethouse.ru/static/img/0000/0002/6151/26151635.2ofdbr37y8.W665.jpg[/IMG]

Most often made of stainless steel. It has a lower thermal conductivity than conventional, unalloyed steel. To prevent the rod from melting above the thermal block, a radiator is screwed on top of the thermal barrier and blown by a cooler. Everything is quite simple. nine0007

It is very common for melted plastic to leak through threads.

This means that the nozzle has not pressed the thermal barrier in the heater block. Therefore, when disassembling and assembling the hot end, we first screw the thermal barrier into the heating block, and then press it with a nozzle. If, when you twist the nozzle, there is a gap between the end of the nozzle and the heating block, then this is normal, the gap in order to press the thermal barrier with the nozzle.

In order to feed the bar at the right time and in the right place, a feeder is needed, that is, a bar feeder. nine0007

Sometimes it is performed combined with a hot end, and then this type of extruder (this is all together a hot end + feeder) is called a direct, that is, a direct feed, without tubes.

The same feeder is made separately, and the bar is fed through a fluoroplastic tube. Such a system is called bowden.

This is to lighten the moving part. As for the positive aspects and disadvantages - each design undoubtedly has them.

Direct extruder:

1. Advantages:

a) More reliable due to fewer plastic feed connections;

b) Less picky about the materials it prints on, in particular rubber based rubber is problematic to print on bowden extruders;

2. Disadvantages:

b) Dimensions. They greatly affect the plot area. Let's say, like in the picture above, a direct with 4 colors would be very huge. And for Bowden, this is just right. nine0007

Bowden extruder:

1. Advantages:

b) The coil does not twitch after the model, otherwise when the coil turns with the direct are tangled, we will get skipped steps, since the carriage will pull the coil along with it.

2. Disadvantages:

a) Retract settings (pulling the rod back during idle movements so that the molten plastic does not ooze out of the nozzle expanding) is more difficult, since the rod is smaller than the inner diameter of the tube, it tends to stretch; nine0007

b) It is more difficult than on direct to select all gaps in order to print with various flexible plastics. Everyone who says that printing on Bowden is impossible with flexible plastics is blatantly lying. I am typing. And quite successfully.

Now let's go directly to mechanics and its calibration.

Part 2. Mechanics. What, how and what pulls?

There is a very limited number of kinematic schemes for which the firmware is written, and which work out movements quite tolerably. nine0007

Consider everything, from the most common:

1. Design and kinematics from Joseph Pryusha (no need to read Prus, Prasha and so on, this is the name of a person, after all).

Movement along each of the axes is provided by its own independent motor. Movement along the Z axis (up and down) is provided with the help of 2 motors and with the help of a kinematic screw-nut pair. M5 studs are often used; recently, screws with trapezoidal threads have been increasingly installed. nine0007

Here is a trapezoidal screw. How studs with metric threads look I will not apply.

The only thing I will explain about moving along the studs and trapeziums is that for the production of trapeziums they take a calibrated rod and roll it between rollers at an angle. Get helical grooves. This method, a priori, gives better quality and step accuracy than building studs of far from the highest quality.

To connect 2 motors to one axle (and 1 connector) at the same time, the following scheme is used. nine0007

Series connection, 2 wires soldered and the rest crimped. You can ignore the colors, the main thing is that the windings ring. A and B are windings, and 1 and 2 are terminals.

Advantages of this kinematics:

1) Independent movement of each axis. It is easy to catch to understand which axis skips steps. Kinematics migrated to printers from CNC milling, so many manufacturers make desktop milling machines on it, instead of an extruder they offer to install a laser for engraving or cutting, a spindle for milling boards, an extruder for chocolate or even dough to bake pancakes. nine0007

Pictured above is a ZMorph printer. It can be used as a printer (with one or two extruders), as an engraver (Dremel machine), as an engraving laser, and so on. A small presentation video.

Milling machine with this kinematics. I note that for milling it is necessary to use a screw-nut pair to move, and not belts, they are not designed for such loads.

Chocolate and pancake printers according to your design. It is worth noting that it is not recommended to use chocolates like Alenka or Babaevsky, since they already contain cocoa butter and during processing (melting and hardening) the result is unpredictable. It is necessary to use chocolate in galettes, such as the Belgian Callebaut, as it does not contain cocoa butter, and must be added for the final filling. For this type of chocolate, each pack has a graph of its crystallization. It is desirable to take the oil in powder form. For more information, I recommend Google about tempering chocolate. nine0007

2) The kinematics are as easy as two fingers. Its very easy to assemble. Many even collect on old DVD drives.

3) Easily changed to suit your needs, the size of the extruder is also of little importance, as it protrudes forward and does not interfere with the movement of other parts. Many people put a second extruder, or make the nozzles swing so that the nozzles of one extruder do not remain on the part when printing with the second nozzle.

Therefore, for this kinematics, there are a huge number of extruder variations, for every taste, on a very famous site. nine0007

Disadvantages of this kinematics:

1) Complicated calibration. Yes, since the table 'jumps', it is difficult to print with high quality, because the part + table, with a sharp change in the direction of movement by inertia, tend to go further. Ugly print artifacts are obtained. And for high-quality printing, you need a small speed. In general, it all depends on the frame. My first printer was a Chinese pryusha. With acrylic frame.

Acrylic is not very hard. And as you know, the rigidity of the printer, like the CNC, is the most important thing. And it was possible to print more or less qualitatively at speeds of 40-50 mm / s. Then I transplanted it to a steel frame from MZTO. nine0007

And after that, without loss of print quality, I was able to print at speeds up to 100 mm / s.

2) Delamination. Due to the open case and the constantly moving platform, hot air, one might say, is constantly blown away, and by cooling the part excessively with drafts, we increase the already large shrinkage of nylons, abs and other capricious plastics. Someone sews a fur coat for a fabric printer, and someone is content with boxes.

But the goal, as always, is the same - to reduce the effect of drafts on the shrinkage of the part. nine0007

Key points for correct calibration of printers with this kinematics:

1) Place the printer on a level surface. Preferably horizontal. This requires a bubble level. Next, set the level of the position of the X axis.

2) Transfer to the home position. It is done either in the printer menu with the Home / Home command, if you are printing from a computer, then either with the G28 command in the command line, or with special buttons with the house icon.

Next, tighten the table screw so that the nozzle touches the glass. It did not press on the glass, but touched. We look at the light and twist. After that, move the extruder to another corner with the arrows in + X, + Y from the PC, or through menu

Turn the screw in the same way until it touches the nozzle. And repeat the operation for the remaining points.

I will try to save you from mistakes. In the photo of the printer above, the glass on the table is fastened with as many as 8 clamps. And it is quite possible that there will be a hump in the center. To avoid such problems, the glass should be fixed with 3 clamps. The plane is built, as is known from descriptive geometry, by 3 points. And calibration will be easier in this case. Just tighten the screw above the limit switch in Z.

For the nozzle to touch the glass in the middle of the side with 1 clip. Then we distill the hot end into the corner where there is another clamp, tighten the table screw, and repeat the operation with another angle.

Regarding wobble.

Any anti-wobbling systems such as installing a bearing in the upper support do not work.

Just because putting 4 far from ideally even cylinders in perfect parallel and in the same plane is an unrealistic task. Especially on a flimsy acrylic frame with printed details. Therefore, if we take the straightness of the shafts as a constant, and set them parallel on the frame (purely hypothetically), and release the screws (from below the coupling for attaching to the motor) and nuts for attaching the X axis. Due to their curvature, the screws will spin like a mixer, but on printing will not be affected. nine0007

Otherwise, the design will work on who will be stronger in bending resistance. And it will turn out far from a flat wall. Do you need it?

2. Kinematic design of Felix printers.

There are many such printers, such ones are made by MZTO (mz3d.ru), already mentioned by Felix. In fact, the kinematics are the same as those of the Prusa. axes independent of each other. Only now the table does not travel along one axis, but along two at once. Along the Z axis, and along the Y axis.

The design of the table is something like this.

A platform rides on the Z shafts. The engine hangs at the back. The table moves along the rails with the help of a belt. The hotend moves only along one axis. The design is very funny, since the table weighs much more than the hotend, and they try to move it along 2 axes at once.

Advantages of this kinematics:

1) There is no second motor along the Z axis. There is no notorious wobble simply because there are 2 shafts and 1 propeller. The screw should also not be fixed from above. If it's not a ball screw. nine0007

Ball screw is a separate issue. If we take a high-quality ball screw, say, from the same Hiwin, then it is manufactured according to at least the 7th accuracy class (if rolled, and if polished, then the class is even higher) and must be installed in bearing supports. On the drive side there are 2 back-to-back angular contact bearings, and on the other end a radial bearing with a loose fit to compensate for thermal expansion.

The purpose of installing a ball screw is to ensure movement accuracy. If it is installed incorrectly, money is wasted, and the accuracy will not be higher than a screw-nut pair with a trapezoidal thread. For FDM, trapezoidal accuracy is more than enough. nine0007

2) Plenty of space for a direct extruder. As in the previous kinematics, there is room for creativity, to select the one and only extruder that you like.

3) Rigid frame. It is possible to make a normal frame. Rigid, durable. Yes, even cast iron. The guys from Felix decided not to bother their heads and sculpt from an aluminum profile. MZTO went further, bent the steel sheet. And the shelf for the installation of the table was milled from a sheet of aluminum.

4) If we take the design of Felix on the profile, then by replacing a pair of pieces of the profile and the Z screw, you can increase the print area. nine0007

Just be sure to add stiffness. And it will turn out like a miracle of design thought. Big, meaningless and merciless.

Kinematic disadvantages:

1) Undoubtedly large twitching masses. The table back and forth, and if you turn on the movement along Z during idle movements (Z-hope), then there will be a disco.

2) There is no way to make him a normal heat chamber. The table moves back and forth and the temperature gradient simply blows away. Hence the problems when printing with nylons or ABS. Small drafts in the room will easily show you where the crayfish hibernate, how the material shrinks. nine0007

The table calibration of this printer is similar to the Prusa table calibration, only a little easier. It is easier due to the fact that you do not need to level the X-axis, it is automatically set when assembling the frame. We bring the nozzle to the table and twist the lambs.

3. Ultimaker kinematics.

One of the most common variations of Cartesian kinematics.

There are not very many such printers, but they do exist. Variation from Zortrax deserves attention. A variant of the same Raise is closer to the classics. nine0007

Zortrax has twin shafts, the reason is simple - they have a direct extruder with a full size Nema 17 motor. The Raise Dual has a double direct extruder, so the classic 6 mm shafts are replaced by 8 mm. And the total weight of the 'head' is almost 900 grams.

Kinematics built entirely on shafts. They act both as guides and as pulleys. Kinematics also refers to Cartesian kinematics with independent movement along each axis by its own motor. Very picky about the straightness of the shafts. If you use curved shafts, you can get very funny artifacts on the walls of models. And they will be on all 3 coordinates. Most often it looks like a different thickness of the first layer and small waves along the walls. Therefore, all the salt and the high price of the original Ultimaker is only in high-quality components. Namely, in straight shafts. The belts are often used as ring belts, which simplifies their tensioning system, since it is important that all 4 belts are equally tensioned. nine0007

Advantages of this kinematics:

1) The table only moves along one axis. vertical. And the temperature gradient in no way suffers from this. The table is cantilever, so it is desirable to provide stiffeners or take this into account with the thickness of the table.

The metal fold on the table acts as a stiffener.

Many Chinese clones are equipped with such stiffening ribs for the table.

2) Despite the seeming complexity of the kinematic scheme, it is simple and each axis moves with its own motor. nine0007

3) The body is closed, which protects against drafts, and therefore delamination. Some put an acrylic door to heighten the effect.

Disadvantages of kinematics:

1) For good printing, it is not enough to buy a pack of even rollers. Collecting all these shafts correctly together is another task. At the same time and buy good bearings. Not that, Chinese junk, which is often sold on Ali, but normal bearings. If the bearings that are placed in the housing rotate poorly, the print will be jerky and with a shift in the layers. The consequences can be asked from Vanya (Plastmaska). Also, when buying leopard bushings, brass bearings with graphite inserts, be prepared for the fact that they will play. And if there is a backlash, the whole structure will knock. nine0007

And also, the Chinese like to push brass instead of bronze. And with even wear of brass and graphite, there will be an oily sticky black film on the shafts, which will make the movements harder. Ilya (tiger) offers good bushings. He also wrote about these difficulties.

2) All shaft parallels must be set correctly. I suggest using this device.

4 shafts that go along the walls of the body automatically stand up correctly, but it is important to set the crosspiece correctly in order to get angles 90 degrees in the XY plane.

3) The design does not provide for an increase in the printable area with a couple of profile pieces, so the size of the hotend matters. Direct is difficult to put, but you can if you want.

Calibrating the table couldn't be easier. The table is often on 3 attachment points. Move the hot end by 3 points and turn the thumbs.

4. Kinematics used by Makerbot.

Also very widespread. In particular, printers from Makerbot, BQ, BCN3D, Magnum, magnum clone Zenit and quite tolerable makerbot replicas Flashforge and Hori work on this kinematic scheme. nine0007

In this case we have independent movement of each of the axes, with a Z table and all the resulting sides.

The main disadvantage is that the engine hangs on one side of the rolling beam, creating a kind of imbalance. This shortcoming was compensated in a two-extruder version - BCN3D Sigma. There, each bowden head has its own engine to move along the beam. And they are installed at the edges of the beam and balance each other. For uniform movement of each of the edges of the beam, 2 shafts, pulleys and belts are used. Belts must be tensioned equally. nine0007

Advantages of kinematics:

1) Independent movement of each axis.

2) Z-moving table. The temperature gradient does not suffer from 'blowing'.

3) Enclosed housing. If not closed, then there is a quite normal chance from the point of view of aesthetics to close it.

4) Scalable kinematics possible. Various BigREPs and others with 1m print areas use exactly this kinematics, as various H-bot/CoreXYs will ring like hell due to the presence of 4-5m belts and their stretching during accelerations. nine0007

Disadvantages of kinematics:

1) Unbalanced masses on the moving beam, hence the maximum print speed, with acceptable quality no more than 60-80 mm/s. Some manage to balance them and it is not so noticeable.

2) Bulky structures on the shafts to avoid unbalance during movements.

3) Make sure that the belt tensions on the right and left are the same.

4. H-bot/CoreXY kinematics.

Next in distribution. Also Cartesian. Two motors are stationary, but move the carriage along the rails with one long piece of belt, or with two, but shorter. The math is more complicated than the previous ones, as it is necessary to synchronize the rotation of both motor rotors. That is, to move along each axis, you need to rotate both motors, and to move diagonally, only 1.

[IMG]http://www.doublejumpelectric.com/projects/core_xy/pics/hbot.svg[/IMG]

In fact, the mathematics for rotating motors is the same, but the implementation in mechanics is different. One of the biggest disadvantages of the H-bot over the CoreXY is that the belt tends to rotate the beam as it moves.

In the picture on the left, this is noticeable, the forces on the right and the forces on the left create a torque. Therefore, to implement this kinematics, the rigidity of the kinematic scheme is necessary. Most often it is implemented in rails. nine0007

With rigid beam. Some do, of course, on the shafts, but in the end - this is not a fountain.

And then they realize this and move to the rails.

For they are both easier to assemble and set up, and it is not necessary to invent carriages so that the shafts do not need to be fixed well.

CoreXY, unlike the H-bot, is driven by two belts.

And so, for ease of understanding, I will describe the positive and negative aspects of each variation of this kinematics. nine0007

H-bot.

Advantages:

1) Only one belt is needed, and the scheme provides for its operation without twisting.

2) It is more convenient to tension one belt than 2, so only one normal tensioner is needed in this scheme.

It's even possible.

Disadvantages:

1) The belt tends to stretch over time, and since the amount of stretching directly depends on the length, it is necessary to monitor its tension. Otherwise, you will get ugly waves on the surface before the stops. nine0007

With a loose belt tension, the bottom bracket will have this play.

2) It is necessary to set the rollers strictly perpendicular to the XY plane, since if the roller is slightly skewed, the belt will be eaten against the roller shoulders. And we will get such a bullshit.

Tested in the skin and ZAV printer. Therefore, I always recommend that the rollers be fixed normally, and not cantilevered, in order to avoid bending the roller axis from belt tension.

3) Complicated mathematics, due to which, at speeds above 100 mm/s, there may be problems with the lack of resources of 8 bit boards. nine0007

CoreXY.

Pros:

1) Two short pieces of strap. They are easier to find than one long one.

2) The forces balance the beam, rather than tending to rotate it, so these kinematics can also be assembled on shafts.

Disadvantages:

1) There are schemes with belt twisting and belt transition from one level to another - this is not very pleasant for a belt. Especially when one belt rubs against another. This moment is on video. nine0007

:{}

2) The difficulty of tightening the belts. They must be tensioned equally, otherwise the tension forces will tend to turn the carriage.

3) Complexity of assembly and development. It is necessary to maintain the verticality of the rollers, relative to the horizontality of the platform for installing motors and rails. A slight misalignment of the rollers will cause the belt to tend to slide down the roller, and if it rests against the shoulder of the roller, it will creak, if the shoulder is large, and if it is small, it will try to drive into it, as in the photo from the h-bot description . nine0007

The general disadvantage of kinematics is poor scalability. That is, it is very problematic to set such a kinematics for a print area larger than 300 * 300 simply because of the elongation of the belt during printing. For small printers with high print speeds - one of the best kinematics.

5. Delta kinematics.

The kinematics are based on the movements of the delta robot.

Only the hot end is installed instead of grippers. It has its own set-up problems, but it can take a very long time to print. It is rare when direct extruders are installed, since the effector (a platform for installing a hot end) is often mounted on magnets and it is necessary to unload it as much as possible. But in order to reduce the length of the tube (more specifically, the effect of the length of the tube on the print quality due to the correct adjustment of the retracts (pulling the plastic rod back to reduce its leakage from the expansion)) on the print quality, the extruder is hung on the same carriages, but on separate hangers. This reduces the length of the bowden tube and increases print quality. nine0007

Advantages:

1) Easy to customize. To increase the height, it is enough to buy 3 pieces of a longer profile, and increase the maximum height in the settings.

2) Takes up little space. It is more often high than bulky in length and width, due to this compactness.

3) If you make a light effector (carriage on which the hot end is installed), then you can achieve high speeds without losing print quality.

4) Vertical movement is the same as XY movement. Thus, there is no sticking of linear bearings on the table crossings, as in Cartesian printers, no extra motors rolling on the beam...

5) The absence of protrusions makes it possible to close the housing and stiffen the frame.

6) The aesthetic part - it's more interesting to stick to the work of the delta.

Disadvantages:

1) Complicated math of movements, it is recommended to install 32-bit boards at once.

2) Complicated setting. A common problem in tuning is to remove the so-called 'lens', because each rod rotates with a radius, and if the tuning is incorrect, your printed plane will be either a convex or concave lens. nine0007

3) It is difficult and expensive to make a rigid frame, so that it would not dangle from the constant jerking of the carriages.

4) Difficulty installing a direct extruder. It turns out to be heavy, and since many deltas are made on magnets, it will not be possible to accelerate. Although, there is one neat and easy solution - installing a ready-made direct extruder with a gearbox. Like E3D Titan Aero or Bondtech BMG.

5) Parts precision issues - any unevenness and misalignment will be visible even if they are on the same axis. And they add up along the axes. nine0007

To sum up , do you want a small printer (not larger than 300*300 mm) with nimble kinematics? Then you should go to Ultimaker or H-bot/CoreXY. Need a printer with a large printable area or 2 independent extruders? Then to Makerbot. If you print vases, hookahs and sufficiently high details - delta. For everything else, there is a classic - Prusa. Experiments with double carriages, chocolate, engravings? Yes, anything. And most importantly - cheap.

You can even screw on 4 colors.


Learn more