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Ball and socket joint 3d print


STL file Ball & Socket Joints・Design to download and 3D print・Cults

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▷ locking ball and socket joint 3d models 【 STLFinder 】

Locking Ball and Socket Joint

thingiverse

A ball and socket joint with a locking ring. ...Configurable, and can be adapted to be used as an OpenSCAD library.

Locking Ball and Socket Joint

prusaprinters

Ball and Socket Joint

grabcad

Functional ball and socket joint attached to a foot for small robots.

Ball and Socket joint

thingiverse

Moves as a ball socket joint. The ball can be removed from the socket if you really tug on it. ...It is free moving, and has very little friction.

Ball and Socket Joint

thingiverse

A ball and socket joint. Can be added to any assembly. ...This model is part of the tutorial series, tutorial coming soon!

Ball and Socket Joint

thingiverse

More on this quick project over at: http://funbiestudios.com/2013/04/3d-printed-ball-and-socket-joints/ Support us on Patreon - https://www.patreon.com/FunbieStudios Instructions We printed this with glow in the dark filament with a Makerbot...

Ball and Socket Joint

thingiverse

It's a ball and socket joint. Features: -Flat bottomed ball for easy printing -Unpatented Pronged Penta-Socket technology -Handy dandy cylindrical ball gripper Pro tip: the socket doubles as a decent head scratcher if printed large enough. Heck,...

Ball and Socket Joint

thingiverse

The headphone clamp wasn't sitting flush with my desk, so I designed this ball and socket joint that contours to the curvature when the headphone holder bends. Installation: Screw this new screw about halfway in, then line up the socket on the top...

Ball and Socket Joint

prusaprinters

The headphone clamp wasn't sitting flush with my desk, so I designed this ball and socket joint that contours to the curvature when the headphone holder bends. Installation: Screw this new screw about halfway in, then line up the socket on the top of...

Ball and socket joint

grabcad

Joints for holding and providing relative motion between links

Ball and Socket Joint

thingiverse

Make sure you snap it together while it's warm. ...Or stop it a few layers early. Other then that this is a simple ball joint!!

Ball and Socket Joint

myminifactory

This is a support-free joint that connects in series. ...Forms easily adjustable links and fun shapes.

Ball and Socket Joint

grabcad

This Joint is a good solution for things like steering hubs and motor-sports. ...the threads are ISO M8 tapped.

Ball-and-Socket Joint

thingiverse

... supports needed. Instructions Print 1 ball, 2 braces, and 2 rings. This thing needs no supports or rafts. Just have the printer print the ball on the stem and it should come out almost perfect. ... You will need a few screws to put it together.

Ball and Socket (Slotted) Joint

thingiverse

A variant of the ball and socket joint for our project with 4 slots which allow for the movement up to 90 degrees+. ... More on this quick project over at: http://funbiestudios.com/2013/04/3d-printed-ball-and-socket-joints/ Support us on Patreon -...

Universial Ball and Socket Joint

thingiverse

This is a universial ball and socket joint. The grove around the edge of the socket is for an o-ring [ OD = 1-7/16" ID = 1-5/16" WALL 1/16" ] designed in order to keep the ball from coming out. This part is apart of a project for Humboldt State...

ball and socket joint snake

thingiverse

3D printable ball and socket design for use in many holding and arranging applications. this is a set of 6 individual pieces that print as 1 on a raft for easy layout. they are completely scalable. adapters and ends for various applications to...

Improved Ball and Socket Joint

thingiverse

There's currently a 20mm ball, threaded socket, and plain socket in this set. It's designed for 3mm or 4mm cap screw and #6 wood screw hardware. The plain socket is great for things that aren't very heavy like Raspberry Pi camera modules. It can...

Soldering hands / Locking ball joint / Socket arm

thingiverse

**To assemble sockets with balls you will need a hot air gun or at least a hairdryer that can blow hot air (you can also try it with boiling water (thanks HMC123 for advice) or open fire, but be careful). ** The socket is way smaller than the ball, so...

Locking ball and socket arm

thingiverse

My original project was posted on hackaday:https://hackaday.io/project/5739-locking-ball-and-socket-gooseneck-system Update 5/17/15 New STL files posted on 5/17/15 - should work much better on printers with larger layer height / lower resolution...

Locking ball and socket arm

prusaprinters

Check out Stickvise, my low profile soldering vise: Information: http://www.stickvise.com Buy it on Amazon: http://amzn.to/2dgmQCE Summary Ball and socket system, upgraded with a quarter turn twist lock on each ball joint to greatly increase pullout. ..

Locking Ball and Socket Mount

thingiverse

This file describes a parametric ball and socket mount that could be used to position a small, lightweight object at a specific angle (e.g. a touch-on LED closet light that is aimed at an object of interest). The socket has screw holes for attaching...

Polypanels Square Ball and Joint Socket

myminifactory

You can also print my Polypanels Ball and Socket Joint Extensions to extend the reach and range of motion for your contraptions!  Also compatible with the Polypanels Triangle Ball and Socket, and Polypanels Nerf Dart Shooter specialty panels!  Oh. ..

WGRM-06 LC Ball and socket joint

grabcad

Low cost Igubal 6mm rod end bearing with ball and socket joint For more information and dimensions see http://www.igus.co.uk/wpck/default.aspx?pagenr=2469&wt.mc_id=grabcad

Optimized 3D Printed Ball and Socket Joint

thingiverse

Layers shouldn't split with this design since the lobes are vertical like on most ball joints. The one downside to this design is that hex screws no longer fit, and you have to use flat head screws. #6 and #8 should both work. ...Roughly equivalent to...

Chimpanzee Hip Skeleton - Ball-and-Socket Joint

sketchfab

The head of the femur is the ball in the ball-and-socket joint of the hip. This model was made by Karina Riddell using Volumegraphics VGStudioMax 3.3 from a CT scan produced at the Yale Translational Research Imaging Center (Y-TRIC). The model was...

camera mount ball and socket joint

thingiverse

remix of the connections in the parent and a ball joint from Universal ball and socked arm thing 4193227. only partly successful, as the print needs to be strong. ... I think its me..

Ball and Socket Joint Based Helping Hands

thingiverse

I designed a ball and socket joint inspired by https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:889439 to help me with a helping hands project I wanted to create. I took a different approach to the design and added dimple and detent system that allows for many...

Ball and Socket Joint (Bracelet/Necklace)

thingiverse

... 6-10 minutes per bead, but this depends on how large you want it. Can make each bead a different color and add designs easily to make it your own. Link to blog: http://3dprinting.illustratingmath.com/2019/10/24/ball-and-socket-bracelet-necklace/

Ball and Socket Joint Tolerance Test

thingiverse

Here are a few simple ball joint tolerance calibration test models for your 3D printer, to get your print settings right the first time. A nominal ball end can be tested with the sockets with an incremental fit tolerance. The numbers in the file...

3D printed movable Star Wars Stormtrooper figurine - printable files included!

Report from the battlefield! Captain Phasma is leading a wave of attacks on the rebels! Defeating resistance is no easy task! The First Order needs to send a few more soldiers to join our fight!

Inspired by Autodesk Tinkerplay 3D Printer and my experience with Lego and Bionicles (leave a comment if you have any), this tutorial will show you how to build any custom figure! I love figurines with ball joints! I grew up with Bandai and Lego figurines and I love how easy they are to assemble and build! No need to constantly screw and unscrew something. I've tried traditional sculpting before, this is my attempt at making a figurine with CAD! nine0003

Download the file and 3D print a stormtrooper figurine with realistic articulation! I hope you enjoy this guide and learn from it some tricks for 3D printing.

I am making this figurine as a Christmas present for my dear friend Susie! I want to make a decent photo-op figure for her! You can have different attitudes to the new Star Wars trilogy, but the design in the films is, as always, on top. Personally, from the first teaser, I really liked how the imperial attack aircraft looks. nine0009

Note: This article is a translation.

Step 1: Master TinkerPlay in 10 minutes!

First off, Tinkerplay is my dream toy printing software! Autodesk launched this application at the beginning of 2016, and as a 3D printing enthusiast, I was very happy to work with it.

The user interface (UI) is designed to be intuitive, easy to learn for both children and parents. Available on iOS, Android and Windows Store! I tried the Android app on my phone, but I prefer the desktop version. The app is so easy to use that it doesn't even start with a tutorial! Provides 10 character templates with unique limbs and body parts connected by ball joints. Select one of the templates and the guided build process will begin. The program has an interactive environment, customization of parts, inverse kinematics and the ability to copy and paste, as shown in my video. nine0003

The assembly process is strictly drag and drop. In addition to templates, the user can mix and match parts as they are available in two catalogs:

1) Parts from a specific character;

2) The same body parts from other characters.

Feel free to watch the video demo if you're interested!

Press the print button and you will see the approximate dimensions and weight of the figurine, these parameters are a general price indicator. You can have your figurine printed at your local 3D workshop. nine0003

Unzip the STL files and load them into Blender, arranging them to match your printer! I installed mine on UPBOX at the university library. I printed this skeleton to test the printer and print file. Moving on to Maya! I hope in the future I will become a professional in Maya.

After printing, I cleaned the entire raft and support with pliers, assembled the skeleton and had some fun with it. The ball joints are very well articulated, with acceptable friction. He can take difficult poses, such as standing on one leg. A slight imperfection in print quality doesn't seem to affect functionality much! nine0009

Step 2: 3D Modeling

This is the most creative part, you can model anything you want or download any game character you like on TurboSquid.

As a 3D artist, I will obviously model the stormtrooper myself. 3D modeling has been my passion for a few years now, I am so drawn to it, with more practice, I hope to get a proper postgraduate study and build a career on it! For beginners, I have the following tips:

1. Sculpt! put your brain to work with 3D shapes! (I tried paper clay figurine 2 years ago but it was too heavy and not hard enough, that was before I tried fimo.

2. Watch tutorial videos online! Long or short!

3. Watch disassembly

4. Follow digital artists on Instagram

5. Learn about topology and test your knowledge!0002 6. Post your work online! You will receive feedback, and you never know who will look at your work and where it will lead!

I've attached a timelapse of the process, I'm certainly not a pro (yet) but I hope you learn something!

Step 3: Tinkerplay modifications and refinement of the model

I sketched out the general scheme (see attached drawing) the main features are:

1. Double ball joints in the elbows and knees for higher bending angles; nine0003

2. Hinges have 2 standard sizes instead of 1 as in tinkerplay to reduce weight.

I used an app called Camera Scanner, it's very handy and does the job. Autocorrect does indeed give the quality of the scanned image in most cases. Great for converting finished quality documents to PDF using your phone.

I roughly assembled the stormtrooper from a sketch in Blender. I then selected the ball joint from a .stl file that I exported from Tinkerplay. Scale to two sizes. Then I placed the joint on top and tested it. You can see me making a lot of adjustments to improve the articulation. After setting the connections and sockets in place, I began to connect them. nine0003

I then aligned the bone piece with the stormtrooper model. I made them overlap, they're not even connected. I decided to redo the connections. Some parts did not receive any support or raft at all, the basis of the seal was also shifted, some layers are visible sliding. It seems that the foundation was not fixed at the very beginning.

Step 4: Test print

Strong slip can be observed

nine0044

My initial approach to setting the bones inside failed due to generated support. I had to separate them.

Last successful print.

I doubted that everything would be fine from the very beginning, since this is a rather difficult thing to print. I expected that I might have to redo the model. I did a test print on the only printer I have access to. It was the printer in the university library. Unfortunately I have a 6 hour limit and can only print it in a very small size due to the complexity of the design. nine0003

It fails miserably due to size, ball joints have been disconnected. The printed base was not set properly, parts of my figure were shuffled like a deck of cards. There was a serious slip of the layers, it is clearly visible on the helmet. I just got unlucky.

Step 5: Modifications + Reprint

Position the taller part in the center and the less layered parts in the surrounding area to optimize timing and print head stability. nine0013

This is a skeleton demo, feel free to use this in your project.

The cylindrical part should normally stand upright due to the even distribution of thread around the circumference.

Right previous failed attempt

The fingers are difficult to orientate, this was my best attempt given the curvature of the shapes. nine0013

I separated the ball joint armature from the armor and reprinted it, I also realigned the parts so that the required support was minimal. You can also notice that I modeled the mesh in more detail... After fixing the printer and fixing its operational glitches, I finally got a working 3d printer. The print took 10 hours, the weight was about 100 g, and the cleaning of the prop and raft took more than an hour. I really wish I had my own 3d printer at home. nine0003

Modeling for printing is similar to modeling for games and graphics, but keep in mind some important differences:

  • Use high-poly printing if necessary, as the printer does not usually work with bump maps or normal maps. If you need more shape definition, add more geometry.
  • Mesh must be watertight and topologically connected.
  • If that's not possible, make sure the two meshes overlap each other to a large extent (like the sternum and pelvis that I did). nine0141

Step 6: Assemble a stormtrooper and take down the rebels!

clear extraction from the grid, start with the parts located around, work inwards.

all parts are ready!

Roll the foam inward to secure the chest.

nine0002 Looks like sushi.

It took me an hour to remove the part from the grid and support. Keep a swab with alcohol handy, I scratched my finger on the hard support. Freeing the part on the outskirts, move to the center, as you can see the head I took off the last

Then comes the real assembly. I'm testing the fitted parts. Because they are empty shells, the armor and some other parts dangle a little, such as the chest and thighs. I recommend adding kraft foam padding. If necessary, glue the shells to the appropriate places with hot glue. nine0003

As I already mentioned, the printer on which I printed this project had a number of problems. If the filament or printer fails a little, then the ball joints may not fit perfectly. If the parts do not fit, take a cutter and cut off the excess. Take a hot glue gun, put a drop of glue on the ball joint and rub it gently to apply a thin layer. The joints must be tight to lock in place and get difficult poses. Feel free to prime and sand the figurine to make it look cool and smooth. nine0003

Step 7 Flexibility

With more articulation than a mid-range action figure, my soldier is able to take such interesting poses. In particular, he has movable shoulder joints, not many figures refer to this subtle but important articulation. The stand on one leg is also a point of pride for me... I think the figure could be improved if the topology of the bones themselves was improved.

I hope you see how cool projects can grow from a creative mind and CAD! nine0003

Stormtrooper 3d printing files:

FYV6DI5IJHFFCF3. stl 202 Download

FAED2KBIJHFFC8R.stl 168 Download

Step 8: Service and Notes

I believe the strength of the seams will depend on the filament you use and the print resolution.

If the connection is not as tight as before, reprint the part or just rub with a layer of hot glue, as I mentioned, this may seem a little dishonest, but I think there is nothing wrong with it. nine0003

If you've read this far, thank you very much for following my experience with 3d printing. Thank you for your time and support Leave a comment and share this guide with your Star Wars-loving friends!

May the force be with you!

Assembling a 3D printer - my experience / Sudo Null IT News PavloG

DIY or DIY 3D printers

Reason

The reason that prompted me to assemble my printer from everything at hand is very commonplace - In May, M3D was ordered on kickstarter (I was in the January bucket). January came and, judging by the updates from the kickstarter, the delay promised to be quite large (at the moment it’s already 7 months), and there was a home-made CNC that I hadn’t used for about a year. I stopped using CNC as soon as I realized that for my needs (assembling a robot), the flat parts that I sawed out of textolite did not solve my needs, and milling volumetric parts was not from anything and technically difficult (it is physically impossible to cut some models on a 3-axis CNC do not break it into its component parts) and the garbage content of this process is clearly not for home use. nine0003

Robot



The hinges and joints bent under the weight and I didn’t manage to make me take at least one step, for example, I lifted one leg, but the second one didn’t have enough strength to hold the hinge of the second foot along the axis where there is no degree of freedom. It became clear that for strength it is necessary to use a ball / cone joint (with a servo inside) - which will limit rotation only along one axis and not allow it on the rest.

CNC before disassembly. nine0223

In stock after disassembling the CNC machine, 3 stepper motors of the Nema23 size appeared.

Target

Building a printer from scratch without using printed parts from another printer. The long-term goal is to compare the printer that will arrive and assembled by yourself.

Printer type and mechanics

The type of printer was determined very simply - 3 stepper motors screamed that they would only work normally in Delta form (For non-delta, 2 stepper motors or 1 but with a complex belt drive are needed on the Z axis). nine0003

Delta printer parts:

  • Guides and linear bearings in carriage
  • Platform
  • Hinges for connecting platform and carriage
  • Hot End (Hot end?)
  • Extruder
  • Electronics

Component details (Delta Mechanics):

  • 8mm rails — 6pcs 500mm
  • SC8UU linear bearings in SC8V blocks - 12 pieces (2 for each guide)
  • Ball joints DIN 71802 (Good search for "FEBI BILSTEIN 07041") 6mm fasteners - 12 pieces
  • GT2 belt and 3 gears for gt2 (I used 20 teeth)
  • 6 bearings 8mm inner diameter for belt on top of printer
  • 3 stepper motors Nema23 from CNC machine (20+kg per centimeter) - usually use nema17
Print head

  • e3d v5 (nozzle 0. 4)

Extruder

  • Plywood
  • Nema17 stepper motor
  • Door hinge
  • A pair of springs

Heated platform

  • MK2b
  • Thermistor - I used Chinese NSC 100K 3450
  • 4 springs
  • Glass 3mm (but I use 4mm because I couldn't find 3mm, if you find borosilicate glass it's generally super)
Electronics

  • Ramps 1.4
  • LCD screen - I took Full Smart Graphics Controller, but it's really hefty, later I bought 20x4 controller
  • Drivers A4988 - 4 pieces
  • Bluetooth HC-05 for working without a wire (3 bucks in total - it's not clear why everyone doesn't do it) ( I even learned to reflash via Bluetooth )
  • Pile of wires 0.75 for heated platform 0.5 for steppers
  • End pieces 0.75 and 0.5
  • 0.25mm pin connectors female (4-ex 2-uh and single) and pieces of iron for them (it turns out they are just crimped, but I soldered)
  • Voltage converter 12v to 5v - Arduino was clearly not enough, it was worth connecting the bluetooth module and the screen brightness dropped to unreadable
  • Small radiators for cooling transistors on ramps 1. 4
  • Cooler for general cooling ramps1.4 (resets the temperature on the radiators of the transistor from 105 to 40)
Any

  • Hardware
  • Drills
  • Screwdrivers
  • Fum tape - actually fluoroplastic, aka Teflon - for thermal insulation of the print head
  • Kapton tape - as for me, I can’t do without it, it is used to fix the thermistor, thermal insulation for the platform, and for the layer on which printing is done over glass
  • Kitten in a package

Result


Printer

(Plywood is laid so that the glass does not die ahead of time)

Print head - first option

Print head - second option

Printhead - latest maglev (highly recommended)

View of the electronics

Extruder - First option

Extruder - upgrade

Plastic reel (hose reel)

Price

If I ordered everything on Ali and from scratch