3D printer with bed leveling

Best 3D Printers with Auto Leveling

3D printers are complex machines, with all the parts having to work coherently to provide high-quality results. So, precise adjustment of the distance between the print nozzle and the build plate is extremely important, unless you want your prints to be ruined by poor first layer adhesion.

This is Top 3D Shop, and in this article, we will touch upon the feature of automatic bed leveling, as well as look at some of the best 3D printers offering this function.

How does auto bed leveling work?

Manual print bed leveling can be pretty tiresome and time-consuming, especially for those who are new to 3D printing. Besides, the process should be repeated after a few prints, as the bed’s position can slightly change. Fortunately, a lot of 3D printers today, including entry-level consumer models, come with an automated bed leveling function that makes the process easy and quick.

The auto bed leveling function implies using a built-in proximity sensor near the tip of the nozzle. When activated, the sensor measures the distance between the nozzle and the print bed at several points on the print bed. Based on these calculations, the firmware adjusts the position of the print head right on the go, to keep the even distance between the nozzle and the bed over the entire build area during printing.

If you want to learn more about this function, read our Auto Bed Leveling Guide.

Do you need a 3D printer with auto bed leveling?

In short — yes, auto bed leveling is worth its money, as it saves a lot of time, and allows the user to avoid print failures caused by a poorly leveled print bed.

Credit: instructables.com

On the other hand, if you are an experienced user, and you don’t mind spending time on manual bed leveling (and know pretty well how to do it properly), you can, probably, do without this useful feature.

If you are new to 3D printing, the auto bed leveling function will help you avoid such troubles, as poor first layer adhesion, nozzle clogging caused by too close position of the nozzle to the print bed, or scratching the print bed.

Can you upgrade a 3D printer to employ auto leveling?

If your 3D printer is not equipped with this function, you can upgrade it with an optional auto bed leveling (ABL) sensor available in the market.

There are various types of ABL sensors, the BLTouch being the most popular. It’s a mechanical sensor, consisting of a microcontroller, a Hall sensor, a magnetic switch, and a pin probe used for measuring the distance between the nozzle and the print bed. Since the sensor uses physical contact for calculating the distance, there are no restrictions for the print bed material. You are free to use the BLTouch sensor with glass, metal, or any other print bed type. The sensor is mounted near the nozzle tip and connected to the motherboard. When the pin touches the print surface, it immediately retracts, causing changes in the electromagnetic field and triggering the magnetic switch. In such a way the sensor checks several points on the print bed, and its position is calculated from the values obtained. It’s important that your print bed is absolutely clean when using BLTouch, as any material residues, for example, may lead to inaccurate calculations.

The BLTouch sensor can be used with most of the 3D printers in the market, but it is recommended to check your printer compatibility just to make sure.

Best budget 3D printers with auto bed leveling

Artillery Genius Pro

The Artillery Genius Pro is a compact FDM 3D printer featuring the build volume of 220 x 220 x 250 mm and the Titan direct drive extruder with a 0.4 mm Volcano nozzle, that enables uniform filament extrusion and provides decent print quality with the minimum layer height of 100 microns. The extruder of the Genius Pro, unlike the original Genius model, is equipped with a touch sensor enabling the auto bed leveling function. The maximum nozzle temperature is 240 °C. The print bed, made of tempered glass, can heat up to 120 °C in 3 minutes. The printer is compatible with PLA, ABS, wood composites, PVA, HIPS, and flexible materials. The filament runout sensor and the resume printing function prevent possible print failures. The Genius Pro is compatible with Cura, Simplify3D, and Slic3r software and is operated via a 2.8" color touchscreen. The device comes as a kit, requiring self-assembly.

Credit: reddit.com

Pros

Auto bed leveling
Low-noise printing due to quiet stepper-drivers
Heated build plate
Filament runout sensor
Resume printing function
Wide materials compatibility

Cons

Lack of enclosure
No wireless connection
Needs self-assembly

Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro

The Ender-3 S1 Pro is a compact FDM 3D printer capable of working with high-temp materials, like Nylon and Polycarbonate, alongside other popular filaments, such as PLA, ABS, wood composites, TPU, and PETG. The full-metal dual-gear direct extruder is equipped with a brass nozzle that can reach the temperature of 300 °C. The PEI-coated flexible magnetic build plate, made of spring steel, ensures proper first layer adhesion and easy removal of the printed part. The printer has a build volume of 220 x 220 x 270 mm and provides the minimum layer height of 50 microns, which is good for an entry-level FDM machine. The auto bed leveling function uses CR Touch probe to measure 16 points on the print bed and adjust the print head. The machine also features the filament runout sensor and resume printing function.

Credit: thetechnologyman.com

Pros

Auto bed leveling
High-temperature materials compatibility
Heated print bed
Decent print quality
Flexible magnetic build plate

Cons

No enclosure

Anycubic Vyper

The Anycubic Vyper is another entry-level FDM printer that comes semi-assembled and features a modular design, allowing for easy upgrades. Like all the models in our list, the Vyper sports the auto bed leveling system, which uses a pressure sensor, activated when the nozzle hits the print bed, providing 16-points precise bed leveling. The build volume of 245 x 245 x 260 mm is quite decent for a compact desktop device. The printer is equipped with a dual-gear extrusion system with two cooling fans that allow printing with PLA-like materials. The maximum nozzle temperature is 260 °C. The heated spring steel magnetic build plate with a scratch-resistant coating ensures good adhesion and easy removal of the prints. The Anycubic Vyper is operated via a 4.3" touchscreen; the recommended software is Cura slicer.

Credit: 3dprintingmedia.network

Pros

Auto bed leveling
Decent build volume
Heated print bed
Easy operation
Modular design for easy upgrades

Cons

No enclosure

Best mid-range 3D printers with auto bed leveling

FlashForge Guider 2

The FlashForge Guider 2 is an FDM 3D printer featuring professional-grade quality, yet affordable price. The Guider 2 has the auto bed leveling function but, unlike the other printers in this article, it’s an assisted automatic process. That means the printer gives the user instructions during the calibration process, rather than automatically adjusts the position of the print head while printing. A removable heated print bed and an enclosed build chamber allow printing with ABS-like filaments. The device features a spacious build volume of 280 x 250 x 300 mm. The filament runout sensor and resume printing function stand for the reliability of the printing process. The printer comes with the FlashPrint proprietary slicer.

Credit: @matisboerodisign / instagram

Pros

Affordable price
High quality of printing
Wide range of compatible materials
Removable heated print bed
Resume printing function
Filament runout sensor

Cons

The printer is quite heavy
The prints are difficult to remove from the bed

Creality CR-5 Pro HT

Due to the maximum nozzle temperature of 300 °C and the fully-enclosed build chamber, the Creality CR-5 Pro High-Temp version can print with high-temperature materials, like PLA, TPU, ABS, and others. The carbon glass-coated print bed can heat up to 110 °C and features a BLTouch auto leveling function. The build chamber dimensions of 300 x 225 x 380 mm allow printing large models or multiple smaller parts at a time. Consistent failure-proof printing is provided by the filament runout sensor, resume printing function, and cloud printing support. The CR-5 Pro HT can be operated via a 4.3" touchscreen, or remotely with the Creality Cloud application.

Pros

Auto bed leveling
Large build volume
Heated carbon glass-coated print bed
Wide range of compatible materials, including high-temp filaments
Cloud printing support
Filament runout sensor
Wide connectivity options

Cons

100 microns minimum layer height

Credit: @Just Vlad / youtube

Best professional 3D printers with auto bed leveling

Raise3D E2

The Raise3D E2 is a professional FDM 3D printer, boasting a great number of advanced functions that stand for industrial-grade quality and consistency of the printing process. The device is equipped with the IDEX dual extrusion system with two independent extruders, that allow printing the same model in mirror or duplication mode, or printing dual color or dual material parts. The maximum nozzle temperature of 300 °C gives the possibility to print with a great number of filaments, like PLA, ABS, HIPS, PC, TPU, TPE, NYLON, PETG, ASA, PP, PVA, carbon and glass-filled, and others.The standard 0.4 mm nozzle can be replaced with optional 0.2–1.0 mm nozzles, if needed. The printer sports an automatic multi-zone bed leveling system with a BLTouch sensor. Other smart features include a built-in camera and a filament runout sensor.

Credit: @3deltaworkshop / Instagram

Pros

Auto bed leveling
IDEX dual extrusion system
20 microns minimum layer height
Built-in camera
Wide material compatibility
Enclosed chamber with a HEPA filter
Door opening detection

Cons

Auto bed leveling takes quite a while

Raise3D Pro3

The Raise3D Pro 3 professional FDM 3D printer features a sizable build volume of 300 x 300 x 300 mm. The bed auto leveling function ensures a perfectly even print area which improves the first layer adhesion, and the flexible steel build plate makes for the convenient removal of the printed parts. The Pro 3 is a dual extrusion system with two independent extruders and interchangeable nozzles with available diameters of 0.2–1.0 mm. The printer is an open-material system, allowing for the use of third-party materials alongside the proprietary filaments. A set of smart features, like built-in camera and door opening detection, provide a smooth printing experience.

Credit: @okada_ss / Instagram

Pros

Auto bed leveling
10 mm minimum layer height
High print quality
Dual extrusion system
Large build volume
HEPA air filter
Wide range of compatible materials

Cons

Requires nozzle upgrades for printing with carbon fiber

Fusion3 Edge

The Fusion3 EDGE is a fast professional FDM 3D printer with a large build volume of 368 x 368 x 343 mm and the minimum layer height of 20 microns. Due to the proprietary ANVIL print head with the maximum temperature of 320 °C, and wear-resistant surgical steel print tubes, the EDGE can print with high-temp and abrasive materials. The printer is equipped with a 1/4" aluminum print bed with standard glass surface and can be upgraded with an optional magnetic build plate. The flat surface combined with the mesh probe bed leveling system ensure perfect first layer adhesion. The multi-zone print bed can heat up to 145 °C, and the temperature in the passively heated build chamber reaches 70 °C.

Pros

Precise auto bed leveling system
Extremely high print speed
Exceptional print quality
Fully enclosed heated build chamber
Heated print bed
Wide range of compatible filaments, including third-party materials
Affordable price

Cons

Bowden extruder (may require upgrades and profile management when working with flexible materials)

Best large-format 3D printers with auto bed leveling

Modix Big 60 V3

The Modix Big 60 V3 is an affordable large-format FDM 3D printer. Like all the Modix printers, the Big 60 V3 comes as an assembly kit and features modular design allowing for easy upgrades. The V3 version is based on the previous Big 60 V2 model; the improvements include a 10% larger build volume of 600 x 600 x 660 mm and the new Duet 2 powerful controller unit, which offers a lot of enhancements, like Wi-Fi connectivity, remote control option, or dual extrusion support on the main board (and up to five more extruders on the optional expansion board). The automatic bed leveling function, using BLTouch probe with 100 points probing mesh, is activated before each print. The machine is capable of working with high-temp materials, and can print at 40-micron minimum layer height, providing industrial-grade print quality and consistency.

Credit: @hwangjoonha_ / Instagram

Pros

Auto bed leveling
Modular design allowing for easy upgrades
Large build volume
Industrial-grade print quality and speed
Wide range of compatible materials
7" operating touchscreen
Affordable price

Cons

Self-assembly is time-consuming
Many features, like an enclosure, come as an option only

Modix Big 120X V3

The Modix Big 120X V3 is another large FDM printer from the BIG family, featuring an impressive build volume of 1,200 x 600 x 640 mm, which allows you to print parts of almost any size. The machine is a self-assembly kit with the same open modular structure, as the other Modix Big printers. The enclosure comes as an option and should be bought separately. The Big 120X V3 is equipped with the new Griffin print head with the maximum hotend temperature of 285 °C, which can be further converted to 500 °C. The aluminum heated build plate features auto leveling function with the 200-point probing mesh. Modix offers a variety of components you can buy in addition to the basic package, like DUEX expansion board, E3D V6 and Super Volcano hotends, a magnetic print bed, and more.

Credit: @rebeca_gi_sa / Instagram

Pros

Auto bed leveling
Huge build volume
Modular system
Heated print bed
Wide range of compatible filaments
Compatibility with any slicing software

Cons

Enclosure should be bought separately
Takes a lot of time to assemble

Creatbot D600 Pro

The Creatbot D600 Pro is a large-scale FDM 3D printer featuring a build volume of 600 x 600 x 600 mm and a dual extrusion system with the maximum nozzle temperature of 420 °C. Combined with the heated ceramic-glass print bed and the hot air chamber, maintaining the constant temperature of up to 70 °C, this allows the D600 Pro to print with high-performance materials, like high-temp nylons, carbon fiber-filled thermoplastics and PC. The precise auto bed leveling system using BLTouch sensor greatly adds to print quality, ensuring proper first layer adhesion. The printer comes with free CreatWare software based on the popular Cura slicer.

Credit: @3dprimade / Instagram

Pros

Auto bed leveling
Huge build volume
Heated build chamber
Printing with engineering-grade materials
Filament drying room

Cons

Small build chamber door

6 Affordable Auto Leveling 3D Printers To Save You Time & Hassle

Manual leveling is tedious, repetitive, and exposes you to the more underrated component of failed prints — human error. Wouldn’t it be great to automate all the boring stuff away, and get to printing? It’s good news for you then, as auto-leveling 3D printers have become more and more affordable.

BUDGET PICK

Anycubic Kobra

One of the cheapest self-leveling printers around.

Performed well in our review.

Available At anycubic here amazon here

MID-RANGE PICK

Creality Ender 3 S1

Builds on Ender 3’s success with extra power and auto-leveling

Improved direct drive extruder

Available at creality here amazon here

PREMIUM PICK

Prusa i3 MK3S+

One of the best 3D printers for $1000 with great auto-leveling

Durable, accurate, it’s perfect

Available at prusa here

What is an auto-leveling 3D printer?

An auto-leveling 3D printer is one that comes equipped with the necessary kit (sensors) to automatically detect the distance between the nozzle and the print bed.

Prior to auto-leveling, makers worldwide had to manually adjust their 3D printer’s bed so it was at the correct distance away from the nozzle. This was time-consuming, annoying, and put beginners off. Moreover, you’d have to re-level your 3D printer every few prints as the bed began to fall out of alignment over time.

Having a self-leveling 3D printer saves you time and hassle, so you can get to doing the fun things like printing your favorite models.

These auto-leveling printers have proximity sensors near the tip of the nozzle and detect where the print bed is across various points on the print bed. For example, the Creality CR-10 Smart has 16 points spaced evenly across the print bed that the nozzle probes to get distance data.

With this data, the 3D printer’s firmware can make adjustments on the distance the nozzle comes to the print bed during the 3D printing process.

For example, if one side of the print bed is slightly uneven, the printer adjusts to this and ensures that the nozzle and bed remain the same distance apart throughout the print, improving bed adhesion and print quality.

Generally, the ideal distance between the printer nozzle and bed is around 0. 1mm, but this can vary.

Problems that can occur if the nozzle is too close to the print bed include:

Scratch marks on the print bed
Filament will be unable to extrude, especially in the first few layers
Can clog your nozzle

Problems that can occur if the nozzle is too far away from the print bed include:

Bad adhesion
Filament will curve and twist around the nozzle rather than being deposited
Poor print quality

Either way, badly optimized bed leveling causes bad adhesion and worse print quality, so it’s key to do this properly. Even with an auto-leveling 3D printer, it can be worth manually calibrating everything every once in a while to ensure your settings are spot on.

What are the advantages of a 3D printer with automatic bed leveling?

Better print quality and bed adhesion
More accessible for less experienced beginners
Saves you time and hassle manually leveling the 3D printer
Human error can affect manual leveling

Therefore, a level print bed is crucial for high-quality prints. If you’re trying to avoid constantly ruined, sloppy-looking prints caused by poor layer adhesion, go for a self-leveling 3D printer.

Can you upgrade a 3D printer to auto level?

Yes, you can, and many makers opt to upgrade their printer so that it can auto level. Many 3D printer auto-leveling kits are available, but check the kit you’re interested in is compatible with your printer.

Some popular 3D printer auto-leveling kits include:

BLTouch — kits Available on Amazon here
CRTouch — Creality’s version — Available at Creality here / Amazon here
EZABL

These kits come with firmware, such as Marlin, which when placed where your printer’s z-stop is, learns the height of the build plate, and makes adjustments based on these measurements.

Top Picks

Best Self Leveling 3D Printers – Full Round-Up

Anycubic Kobra: Best budget pick
Flashforge Adventurer 3 Lite: Best enclosed low-cost option
Anycubic Vyper: Similar to Kobra but slightly upgraded (but costs extra)
Ender 3 S1: Best auto-leveling 3D printer under $500
Prusa i3 MK3S+: Best for $1,000
Ultimaker S3: Best for professional use, or if budget is no issue for you

3DSourced is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Learn more

The Best Auto-Leveling 3D Printers

Anycubic Kobra – cheapest auto-leveling 3D printer

Price — Check latest price at Anycubic here / Amazon here
Automatic Bed Leveling: Anycubic LeviQ
Leveling Points: 25 points
Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 250 mm
Minimum Layer Height: 50 microns

The Anycubic Kobra is the cheapest 3D printer with a self-leveling bed around and a thrifty way to get all the time-saving benefits at a price that won’t scare away 3D printing novices. Launched in early 2022, it’s a machine designed to make 3D printing easier for newcomers by removing the more hands-on aspect of setup and tinkering.

Anycubic has equipped the Kobra with its in-house developed mesh point ABL 3D printing system, the LeviQ. It measures the bed at 25 distinct points, stores the data, and adapts the printing process to mitigate surface inconsistencies.

We had the chance to spend some quality time with the Kobra, and we couldn’t have been more impressed with the Levi Q system. The probe automatically levels the bed in just a few minutes with a single click. You can also fine-tune Z offset on the fly to get those flawless layers, thanks to an easily accessible setting in the intuitive display UI.

Elsewhere, the Anycubic Kobra has features we’ve rarely seen at this price. There’s a smart direct drive extruder, Anycubic excellent coarse PEI-coated removable magnetic bed, and a well-sized 220 x 220 x 250 mm build volume, all housed in a compact machine that won’t take up too much space.

Specifications are one thing, but the Anycubic backs them up with solid quality prints out-of-the-box. As with most budget printers, there’s some software tinkering involved to get the very best results, but once there, the Anycubic positively sings when fed PLA, TPU, and PETG.

In many ways, the Anycubic Kobra has redefined what we should expect from low-cost printers and, for our money, is hands down the best 3D printer under $300 currently on the market.

Flashforge Adventurer 3 Lite

Price: $339 — Available at Flashforge Official store here / Available on Amazon here
Build volume: 150 x 150 x 150

If you’ve got younger kids that you want to get involved in 3D printing, the Adventurer 3 Lite is perfect. It’s enclosed, so it keeps any curious child’s hands safely locked away from the nozzle while printing, with this enclosure also benefiting your prints as you can more effectively control the temperature, and reduce warping.

The Flashforge Adventurer 3 Lite is one of the cheapest 3D printers with auto-leveling, another feature that makes it ideal for beginners or kids, letting you skip all the hassle and get straight to the fun printing. The removable heated bed makes it easier to remove prints after printing, and despite its appeal as a basic, easy-to-use printer, it can still print tougher filaments like PETG.

It also comes with a filament run-out sensor, switching off automatically in the event of a power cut or similar failure, pausing your print so you can resume without ruining your model, and it’s very quiet, so it won’t disturb you too much if you’re working or relaxing in the same room.

Anycubic Vyper

Price: $429 — Available on Anycubic Store here / Available on Amazon here
Build volume: 245 x 245 x 260 mm

Another low-priced self-leveling 3D printer, the Anycubic Vyper’s 1-click auto-leveling system automatically adjusts based on the data gained from each of 16 different points across the print bed to optimize printing.

Despite the large build volume, it’s a compact printer that doesn’t take up too much space, and when we recently tested it out we were impressed with the print quality. Though we didn’t run it too fast, Anycubic say that with the Vyper’s new fan cooling system you can print faster without a noticeable loss in print quality — at up to 100mm/s.

The new 32-bit motherboard and control chip makes it more powerful than previous Anycubic 3D printers, making for better precision and quieter printing. The large 4.3-inch touchscreen is a nice bonus, and the UI is easy to use to get printing and change each setting. Another great feature is the new and improved double gear extrusion system within the extruder, making flexible filaments like TPU easier to print and prevents tangling, and also makes standard PLA printing more reliable.

Overall, we were impressed when we tested the Anycubic Vyper, and if you’re looking for a high-quality 3D printer that auto levels for a good price, this could be the one for you.

You can read more in our full Anycubic Vyper test here.

Ender 3 S1 / S1 Pro

Price — Check price at Creality store here / Amazon here
Automatic Bed Leveling: Creality CR Touch Auto Leveling
Leveling Points: 16 points
Build Volume: 220 x 220 x 270 mm
Minimum Layer Height: 50 microns

Emerging from one of the longest-running and best-selling 3D printing legacies, the Ender 3 S1 is the new, more sophisticated version of the Ender 3 – with two versions, the Ender 3 S1, and S1 Pro, with subtle differences.

In our review of the Ender 3 S1 Pro, we noted how Creality has gone to considerable lengths to make the printer a tinker-free, set-and-forget incredibly welcoming to beginners, and improved a number of key areas.

Both the Ender 3 S1 and S1 Pro have key upgrades, such as automatic bed leveling – a first for the Ender 3 family. Creality has used its self-developed BLTouch look-alike, the CR Touch.

It measures 16 points across the bed to provide the printer with all the data needed to compensate for different surface heights and deliver optimal printing. Unlike some automatic bed leveling systems, the CR Touch keeps its calibration sharp and trim even after multiple prints.

Of course, you could always buy an Ender 3 for dirt cheap and install a CR Touch yourself. It would be a viable option if it weren’t for the stacks of extra features found on the S1.

The Sprite dual-gear direct drive extruder is worth mentioning, as is the fantastic PC spring steel sheet, sleek LCD, extremely quiet 32-bit motherboard, and a larger 270mm maximum print height (vs 250mm on the Ender 3).

Not only does it feature auto bed leveling, it’s also very accurate and precise (example print of a cat on the right), and very quiet (we measured it to be 36dB in our test on the left).

The Ender 3 S1 does cost more for all these upgrades, so whether the extra features are worth the additional spend comes down to budget and convenience. The Ender 3 is still one of the top budget picks, but you’ll have to invest time, effort, and money to spruce up to anything comparable to the Ender 3 S1.

And if you’re deciding between the S1 and S1 Pro for an auto-leveling 3D printer under $500, this really depends on what you want to print. The S1 Pro has an all-metal direct drive extruder that can reach 300°C, so if you want to print high-temp filaments like Nylon or PC, absolutely go for the S1 Pro. If not, you might be fine with the standard S1.

It’s also worth noting that the brand-new Ender 3 Neo range also now come with auto-bed leveling, so it’s more a question of whether you want the other upgrades on the S1 range.

Prusa i3 MK3S+ — reliable auto-leveling 3D printer

Price: $749 as a kit / $999 assembled — Available on Prusa Store here
Build volume: 250 x 210 x 210 mm

Prusa printers have been known as the most reliable, hassle-free, and high-quality 3D printers around for years, winning boatloads of awards and selling hundreds of thousands of 3D printers.

The latest version, the i3 MK3S+, comes with improved first layer calibration via the new SuperPINDA probe, and a range of other key design improvements. The automatic mesh bed leveling is flawless and keeps everything optimized, and the print platform’s removable PEI spring steel sheets make it easy to remove your finished prints without having to strain and risk damaging your print while scraping it off the bed in an awkward position.

Other quality-of-life features include the filament runout sensor, power loss recovery to save where you are in your print, key safety features, and it’s very quiet while printing.

Prusa printers are also open source, so you can use third-party filaments, and the i3 MK3S+ is powerful enough and can reach high enough nozzle temperatures to print filaments like ASA, Polypropylene, Polycarbonate, HIPS, Nylon, and carbon filled filaments, beyond the standard ABS and PLA.

Overall, if you’ve got the extra money to spend, go for the Prusa and you won’t be disappointed.

Ultimaker S3 – premium auto-leveling option

Price: $4,080 — Available on Dynamism here / Available on Matterhackers here
Build volume: 230 x 190 x 200 mm

The premium, high-quality auto-leveling 3D printer option, the Ultimaker S3 guarantees a hassle-free printing experience. Designed for prototyping and for business use, the S3 features advanced auto bed leveling via automated calibration settings. These settings measure the build platform’s coordinates and automatically adjust without you needing to manually intervene — it’ll just stay level and optimized.

It’s also a dual extruder auto-leveling 3D printer, so you can print with PVA and PLA for dissolving filaments, as with HIPS and ABS, and a range of other filaments.

The Ultimaker S3 is also incredibly accurate, able to print precise parts of up to 20-micron resolutions. At this level of precision, it’ll be slow, but the results will be fantastic. It’s expensive and usually reserved for more professional use, but functions fantastically as an auto-leveling printer for a range of uses.

For premium machines, read our buyer’s guide for commercial 3D printers.

Do 3D Printers Need Auto Leveling?

No, 3D printers don’t strictly need auto bed leveling, but it’s a helpful feature to have because it removes the need to manually level the bed, which can be both time-consuming and frustrating for beginners.

FAQs

What is the best auto-leveling 3D printer?

The best cheapest auto-leveling 3D printers for ABL 3D printing include the Anycubic Kobra, Creality Ender 3 S1, and Flashforge Advenurer 3 Lite, but if you’re willing to spend a little more, the Prusa i3 MK3S+ is a fantastic self-leveling 3D printer.

What are the best self-leveling bed sensor kits?

The BLTouch auto-leveling sensor probe is a widely used and highly-rated self-leveling 3D printer kit, which is compatible with many different printers and brands. Creality also sell their own version, the CRTouch, and there are other options also.

Free STL file Anycubic Chiron

Futures Fins Surfboard Template for Router

5 €

Ortur LM2 Height adjustable feet

Free

Artillery X1 Clip FFC Cable

Free

Artillery X1 - Z Calibrate

Free

Fysetc mini 12864 case

Free

Anycubic Chiron Direct Extruder BMG+V6 with linear rail

Free

Anycubic Chiron Bowden extruder E3D V6 Volcano original carriage

Free

Anycubic Chiron Stabilize Y axis motor

Free

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Ender 3, 3 V2, 3 pro, 3 max, dual 40mm axial fan hot end duct / fang.

CR-10, Micro Swiss direct drive and bowden compatible. No support required for printing

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ENDER 3 S1/PRO SPRITE, V3 AIR DUCT 5015 OR 4020

~~€2.50~~ -fifteen% 2.12 €

UNIVERSAL BED LEVELING INDICATOR FOR VERY ALL PRINTERS

2,89 €

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~~€2.39~~ -fifty% 1.20 €

INDICATOR FOR BETTER BED LEVELING FOR ENDER 3 PRO

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2,50 €

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0,96 €

Printer boxes for Ikea Lack Table

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Getting Started with Universal Bed Leveling - 10 Reasons

Last time we talked about Marlin having several bed leveling mechanisms including Unified Bed Leveling or UBL. UBL tries to be everything to everyone and has dense meshes that model your bed and give you ways to customize and modify those meshes.

Last time we covered how to prepare the printer for UBL, but didn't cover how to use it while printing. To do this, you will need to create at least one grid and enable it in your start code. You'll also want to set the Z-height correctly for everything to work well.

stages

Almost all UBL mechanisms are in the G29 command. If you are not starting from scratch, you need to load the mesh from "slot" into EEPROM:

 G29 L2

This means that the slot 2 mesh is now in memory and you will work with it. If you do not save it, all changes made will be lost. By the way, this does not necessarily include alignment. It just loads the grid. If you're starting from scratch, you don't need to download anything.

Grid setup requires use of phase commands in G29, which use the letter P and a number:

P0 - reset the grid and disable the alignment system.
P1 - Automatically explore as much as possible. This will usually erase the existing grid unless you use the C option. If you find you don't want to explore dozens or hundreds of points, you can stop by holding down the controller button for a few seconds.
P2- Manually explore all unspecified points. The printer screen will ask you to continue. You can manually touch the bed with the nozzle, or use argument B to measure the wedge like a piece of paper the first time, and then use that height to manually measure all points. You can cancel, again, by holding the controller button.
P3 - Fill in the blank areas of the grid. You can specify the value with C or omit it and the printer will try to guess the correct value from the surrounding data. Surprisingly good at it. However, if you have multiple rows or columns with unspecified points, this command will only run the "first" set of points so you can eventually refine them and guess better for the rest of the points. This means that if you are just trying to populate a grid, you may need to P3 multiple times.
P4 - Refine grid points. The printer will then prompt you to measure certain points on the screen. Typically you provide X and Y coordinates along with the number of repetitions (often 1).
P5 - Give grid statistics including mean and standard deviation. Switch on C if you want to move the grid so that the mean is considered zero.
P6 - Offset mesh. Specify a value with C to move the entire grid up or down. This can be useful if, for example, you were printing PLA and wanted the print to rise a few hundred microns to avoid over-adhesion.

Sounds confusing, but the general idea is that you start with P1 and then use P2 or P3 (or both) until all points are set. The rest is used for special purposes or to customize things. Don't forget to save the mesh and remember where you put it:

 G29 C1

I suggest you save your first P1 result in a location you never change, and then save the results after P2 and P3 elsewhere. This way, if you make a mistake, you can go back to baseline and start all over again without having to re-run a lot of tests.

Visualize the height of your bed

So how do you know what UBL is doing? You can request a topographic report (T) and get the data:

 G29 T

You can add V1 to get a little more detail, and T1 will produce data suitable for reading in a spreadsheet or other software.

Here is an example report:

 Reservoir topography report: ( 0.210) (210.210) 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 6 | -0.533 -0.533 -0.522 -0.483 -0.461 -0.429-0.400 | 5 | -0.400 -0.367 -0.324 -0.245 -0.183 -0.112 -0.183 | 4 | -0.359 -0.259 -0.183 -0.075 -0.026 +0.076 +0.200 | 3 | -0.333 -0.233 -0.115 -0.001 +0.070 +0.181 +0.200 | 2 | -0.348 -0.248 -0.140 -0.009 +0.062 +0.161 +0.200 | 1 | -0.350 -0.290 -0.177 -0.049 -0.003 +0.130 +0.400 | 0 | -0.350 [-0.290] -0.177 -0.049 -0.003 +0.130 +0.400 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 ( 0, 0) (210, 0)

Incidentally, the P5 command indicates that the standard deviation of this set is about 0.24. This means that approximately 68% of the data is within plus or minus 0.24 mm of the mean. Then 95% of readings are within 0.48 mm (again plus or minus). As you can see, I have a corner that needs a bit of work - the total deviation is about 1 mm from the top point to the bottom point.

Bed data stamped

Z-height

Although we know the shape of the bed, other factors come into play, in particular the actual nozzle height is critical. You must set the Z offset so that the difference between sensor and nozzle is correct.

Everyone has their own way of setting UBL, but my advice is to turn it off first. Then print out a small ring or disc in the center of the bed. It should not be very thick and should be small enough that the bed is flat underneath. For example, a cylinder with a height of 5mm and a diameter of 20mm. You can quickly see if the plastic is stuck to the bed or not. If it is too soft or not sticky, adjust the Z offset until it is. Then take the mesh measurements.

However, the offset does not change the shape of the bed, so you can set the offset last or also adjust the height of the net. All legitimate solutions, but I prefer to set the height first.

start

Your start code needs to do a few things. You need to load the desired mesh and enable alignment. By default, the home command disables it, but you can change this if you rebuild Marlin. Your bed probably won't change shape, but it may change a little. You can use G29 J to take a three point measurement and tilt the grid based on that measurement. You also need to turn on alignment with G3 A if it's not always on.

You also need to set the fade height, which you can do once in EEPROM if you like. It's usually 10mm and the correction applied due to the mesh gets smaller and smaller on each layer until you reach that height. After that, Z correction is not applied. Usually at this point your printing is good and it also saves time and wear and tear on your Z axis.

Plan

So if you want to experiment with UBL here is the plan: from too many points. You may want to review first and then increase your points. The 7x7 grid is suitable for many printers. You can also set it up so that the auto alignment is restored to its previous state after HOME.

Level your bed as normal as possible. The fewer corrections needed, the better UBL will work.

Do not turn on auto leveling yet. First get a nice print cylinder in the center of the bed by adjusting the z-offset.

Heat bed to normal temperature and run G29 P1. Save the results, for example, in slot 2 (G29 S2).

Execute G29 T and see if any points are measured. You must understand why they were not measured. For example, if the Z sensor is to the left of the print nozzle, you should not have any untested spots on the left side of the platform. If you do this, your configuration in Marlin is wrong and you need to recompile.

You can do G29 P2 to fill in the rest of the points, but for a first try try G29 P3 instead.

Run G29 T again and repeat commands P2 or P3 until you have a complete mesh.

Save mesh to slot 1 (G29 S1)

Set load code to load slot 1 (G29 L1) and activate (G29 A). You can do G29 J after charging and preferably after your bed is warm.

Print a test object. You might want to start with a small object in the center, just to make sure you don't mess anything up. A flat bed model is useful. Marlin has a "mesh check" command that draws such a pattern (G26) and you can use that too.

However, any bed flatness test print will do as a start.

If you notice that some points are too high or too low, you can try changing them. If you stray too far, you can always go back to the copy you saved in slot 2 and start over. Inductive sensors, for example, sometimes give strange results near the edge when they are partially outside the metal base.

hints

Octoprint can edit grids with a little help,

Please note that I always try to do surveys from a warm bed. Heat causes things to expand, so probing the cold layer is probably not as accurate as one would like.

If you need a quick bed receipt printout, there are plenty of sites like Thingiverse, including mine. You can scale the x and y dimensions to fit your bed instead of recreating it. Do not resize the Z axis proportionally.

If you are using Octoprint, you can view and edit grids using the plugin. There is also a grid rendering plugin, or you can do as I did above and use the website for that purpose.