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3D printer bed spring upgrade
Ender 3 Spring Upgrade: Choose and Install New Bed Springs
Zach(
249
)
10 minutes
This guide will teach you how to choose and install upgraded bed springs on the Ender 3 or Ender 3 Pro. (If you have an Ender 3 V2, then use our spring upgrade guide for the V2.) The stock bed springs that come with the Ender 3 are terrible; they can lead to print issues and require more frequent bed leveling.
If you're tired of leveling your bed constantly, better springs are a very inexpensive upgrade to your Ender 3! When you're done, you won't need to level your bed between prints nearly as often.
| Creality Ender 3 3D printer | × | 1 | ||
| Upgraded Ender 3 bed springs | × | 1 |
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h/ender3 • 23 guides
h/3dprinting • 90 guides
The new springs (yellow) are the same length as the old springs (silver).
Of course, you'll need 4 springs. Here are a few considerations when choosing upgraded 3D printer bedsprings:
Rigidity
The replacement springs are more rigid than the stock springs, increasing consistency between prints and reducing vibration.
Length
The replacement springs are the same length as the original springs, meaning you shouldn't need to adjust your Z-axis endstop like you would with longer springs.
Shape
The replacement springs feature a flat top and bottom (vs. the stock springs' rounded top and bottom), resulting in less spring movement or shifting during and between prints.
tl;dr;
After much research, I found these to be the best Ender 3 bed springs available on Amazon.
They're under $10 with free shipping.
Used here
See all
Check Price on Amazon
To remove the old springs, turn each bed adjustment wheel counter-clockwise until it can be fully removed. Set each wheel aside.
I recommend not removing the build plate completely since the back-right corner contains the heating element wiring. Instead, carefully lift each corner and replace each spring individually.
If you need to, you can flip the bed upside-down and install the back-right corner first. The wire-retaining clip will keep the spring from falling out.After all 4 springs have been replaced, reattach each adjustment knob. If you reattach any adjustment knob before all 4 springs are replaced, it will make it more difficult to replace each spring.
The new springs are a bit stiffer and feature a flat top and bottom, a definite improvement over the old springs.
Finally, you'll need to level your bed—just as you have a thousand times before. Thankfully, you shouldn't need to level your bed between prints nearly as much from now on!
Ender 3 PSU UpgradeEnder 3 FAQ
Show all in the Ender 3 series
NEXT UP
Michael(
175
)
5 minutes
Ah...bed leveling. It's the first thing you absolutely need to learn how to do with your Ender 3 V2. And don't feel bad if you get this wrong at first. I did. ...
Continue reading
Ender 3 Spring Upgrade: Choose and Install New Bed Springs
Zach(
249
)
10 minutes
This guide will teach you how to choose and install upgraded bed springs on the Ender 3 or Ender 3 Pro.
(If you have an Ender 3 V2, then use our spring upgrade guide for the V2.) The stock bed springs that come with the Ender 3 are terrible; they can lead to print issues and require more frequent bed leveling.
If you're tired of leveling your bed constantly, better springs are a very inexpensive upgrade to your Ender 3! When you're done, you won't need to level your bed between prints nearly as often.
| Creality Ender 3 3D printer | × | 1 | ||
| Upgraded Ender 3 bed springs | × | 1 |
Howchoo is reader-supported. As an Amazon Associate, we may earn a small affiliate commission at no cost to you when you buy through our links.
h/ender3 • 23 guides
h/3dprinting • 90 guides
The new springs (yellow) are the same length as the old springs (silver).
Of course, you'll need 4 springs.
Here are a few considerations when choosing upgraded 3D printer bedsprings:
Rigidity
The replacement springs are more rigid than the stock springs, increasing consistency between prints and reducing vibration.
Length
The replacement springs are the same length as the original springs, meaning you shouldn't need to adjust your Z-axis endstop like you would with longer springs.
Shape
The replacement springs feature a flat top and bottom (vs. the stock springs' rounded top and bottom), resulting in less spring movement or shifting during and between prints.
tl;dr;
After much research, I found these to be the best Ender 3 bed springs available on Amazon. They're under $10 with free shipping.
Used here
See all
Check Price on Amazon
To remove the old springs, turn each bed adjustment wheel counter-clockwise until it can be fully removed.
Set each wheel aside.
I recommend not removing the build plate completely since the back-right corner contains the heating element wiring. Instead, carefully lift each corner and replace each spring individually.
If you need to, you can flip the bed upside-down and install the back-right corner first. The wire-retaining clip will keep the spring from falling out.After all 4 springs have been replaced, reattach each adjustment knob. If you reattach any adjustment knob before all 4 springs are replaced, it will make it more difficult to replace each spring.
The new springs are a bit stiffer and feature a flat top and bottom, a definite improvement over the old springs.
Remember the "down up" text on each knob should be oriented upwards.Finally, you'll need to level your bed—just as you have a thousand times before. Thankfully, you shouldn't need to level your bed between prints nearly as much from now on!
Ender 3 PSU UpgradeEnder 3 FAQ
Show all in the Ender 3 series
NEXT UP
Michael(
175
)
5 minutes
Ah.
..bed leveling. It's the first thing you absolutely need to learn how to do with your Ender 3 V2. And don't feel bad if you get this wrong at first. I did. ...
Continue reading
How to perfectly calibrate the 3D printing plate・Cults
You can deform the print tray while trying to align it by adjusting the tension of the springs and having a visual guide to align the print tray. This article was written and illustrated by Peter Solomon , founder of Wham Bam.
Many 3D printer owners may damage the print plate thinking it is bent or not aligned properly. This article talks about how this can happen and, more importantly, how to avoid it.
The basic rules of geometry tell us that 3 points in space contain a flat plane.
For this simple reason, machines with 3 leveling screws are safer.
4-Point Alignment is good in that it supports the printable at all corners, however if you drop one corner lower than the rest, you risk bending your own building surface.
So when leveling, adjust all the knobs gradually, turning each one one turn to the maximum, go around and let each corner play a bit until you reach a flat printing plate without straining any particular corner.
-
Tighten all bed leveling knobs until the springs are half compressed. Tighten them gradually so that the bed does not sag.
You can see how much wire is tucked under the handle so they are even if you have this type of setup. -
To park the car at home. If the nozzle does not touch the surface of the building, adjust the Z-stop limit switch and reconnect it until the nozzle touches the surface of the building when you are at home.
-
Once the nozzle touches the surface of your home, follow the correct bed leveling program to level and adjust the space properly.
If you follow these steps you will have a flat bed with the correct compression of the bed springs for a more rigid installation.
This will help you secure the alignment screws so they don't twist in the bed: https://www.
youtube.com/watch?v=-UL1d61HClo&t=77s.
Here are my tips for leveling the bed. It is imperative that your bed is level and that the correct space is set for each print. Once you get the hang of this process, it's quick and easy, and you may not have to do anything more than simple on-the-fly adjustments while your printer sets the skirt for most of the time afterwards.
You will need a printer function that rotates around the bed and stops the nozzle right above each adjustment button for a few seconds before continuing, or a gcode that does the same, which can be used via the print function.
You need to properly furnish your home. Follow the instructions above for compressing the bed springs and setting the Z limit switch. Use an upgrade code or printer upgrade program.
Do not push the bed and printhead as this may cause very inaccurate results. Heat bed and nozzle to desired print temperature, then run gcode or update.
program. Make sure that there are no lumps or threads in the tip of the nozzle.
Make sure your leveling process stops exactly over the bed leveling screws.
Now heat up the machine to the desired printing temperature (nozzle and heated bed).
After heating, start the leveling program or gcode.
Do not push the hot end and stay on the bed, this can create Z movement and give false readings.
Place a strip of carbon paper (I like heavier paper - about 28 pounds) under the nozzle as it stops at each point, and if there is no thrust, move the alignment knob at that point until it creates thrust. Try moving the paper back and forth with the handle about 3" or 60mm from the nozzle, you should feel the paper pull. If you cannot pull or push the paper under the nozzle, pull the paper off the bed until it passes. Try not to turn one handle more than one turn or it could bend your bed, you may need to adjust each knob together for the first turn.0009 Let him move to the next corner.
Repeat the above steps for all corners.
Repeat the process again, you will notice that when you move one corner it can affect others.
Repeat the process until you reach the end of all bed level adjustment knobs without adjusting it at all.
This is when your bed is level.
Now set the gap using a live level.
Program your slicer to print 2-3 obturation lines as far away from the part as possible so that it is closer to the edge of the printer.
Set up the part to be printed, and while it traces the lines of the skirt, visually inspect and adjust the buttons as close to the print areas as possible, if necessary.
If the cord on the bed is too round and too high, close the gap slightly.
If it is flat and slightly wider than the nozzle width, this is normal.
If it is too transparent and does not flow, your space is too narrow, you need to increase the distance a little.
Different print surfaces and filaments require different space, so you may need to experiment with your space. PETG, for example, doesn't like the nozzle dragging over it, so you may need more space.
In general, it is always recommended to flatten a little, print the first layer very slowly (40% print speed), it's worth it to get a good layer.
You can do this for every draw, or if your level is stable enough, just do the level live between runs.
You can find an article explaining how to get the perfect first layer for 3D printing.
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