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Folger kossel 3d printer
Folger Tech Kossel 2020 suddenly will not print properly? - 3D Printers - Talk Manufacturing
RoboDLC
#1
I finally got my Folger Tech Kossel 2020 delta printer tweaked in. bed flat, zero offset z probe, auto leveling working right, cal cube nearly perfect, lots of prints, including some that use about 75% of the bed working fine, part fan added. Bliss.
And then BANG! Overnight, everything went south.
It now does not reach the bed, first layer isn’t properly “sqashed”, subsequent layers look like they are too high off of the last layer, dogs and cats sleeping together, mass hysteria… (nod to Ghostbusters).
I checked my leveling, everything had moved “up” about .3mm. OK, I releveled, modified the offset from z probe in configuration.h, no good, still the same problem.
Has anyone else seen this? I am using the same firmware, the same slicer/printer (Simplify3D), the same PLA, the same bed and hot end settings.
What gives?
Help?
DLC
Mark_Ingle
#2
Are you homing before the print starts?
Steve_W_Watson
#3
Maybe try a firmware upgrade. Possibly a corruption or bug?
RoboDLC
#4
Answering questions from (appreciated) responses:
Steve: It could be a bug, it is old firmware, but it seems unlikely unless it was a “time bomb”, nothing in any settings changed either in firmware or software.
Mark: Yes, I do home at the start of a script - I am schooled to what happens if you don’t…
Here is a more detailed update of my problem after my investigations:
My setup:
Folger Tech Kossel 2020 delta printer running Marlin firmware ©2011 from the kit maker
Running Simplify 3D on a Win 7 computer
Until yesterday, my delta printer was “dialed in” and printing whatever I threw at it. My bed is flat, auto-leveling was working like a charm. I have a part fan that is off for the first layer and set to 50% at layer 4. My bed is at 60 C and my hot end is at 210 C for the first layer and backs off to 200 C for all layers after that. I work in PLA.
Then, total dysfunction.
Problem one:
I found that suddenly all my endstops, leveling data changed. My bed used to measure out (X,Y,Z,0) at 1.1, 1.1, 1.1, 1.0. I am using a zero-offset magnetically attached mechanical switch to do the auto bed-leveling. I then measured the “new” bed level stats at 1.
4, 1.4, 1.4,1.3, and the Z offset of the probe obviously moved.
As I re-leveled everything to find the new settings, they changed and finally settled to 1.2, 1.2, 1.2, 1.1.
Huh? Why did these all change, and why did they settle back down (most of the way)?
I updated my configuration.h file and kicked some prints off. This almost worked. If I have flat objects with large contact area-to-height ratios, the print will work. Things that have multiple, smaller contact points will not print, by about the 20th layer the print head will snag on something and pull it off the bed.
This brings up problem 2:
Even flat models now are festooned with “cobwebs”. Gunk gathers and creates “zits” in places and more scars than usual on surfaces. The plastic may warp on a layer and when the print head comes along may hit it and knock it off. Also, it may be dragged around by drools from the hot end. I now see dark sections that look like the plastic got burned while coming out.
OK.
I am clueless about Problem 1, I checked my mechanics, no loose or broken rods, my bed springs didn’t suddenly relax and come back, my carriages are solid, no loose screws, my limit switches didn’t move (they’d all have to move at once since the error distribution was consistent at all towers). The belts are the same tension and nothing that I could find was changed on the end effector.
Problem 2 looks like a classic case of the PLA getting too hot: strings, warping, burned spots, drool dragging. But why all of the sudden? My settings over the last two weeks, when I got my printer working, have not changed. Is it possible that the thermistor is failing and the temperature of the hot end is getting hotter than what is being reported?
regards,
DLC
Mark_Ingle
#5
Have you calibrated your extruder steps and filament multiplier? Also the auto level feature is hit and miss.
I ditched it after three weeks of frustration. Doing it manually takes time but it’s worth it in my opinion
RoboDLC
#6
I have not done any calibration on my filament extruder. Up until this point, it was fine. The auto level worked like crap with the included inductive sensor, it works great with my zero offset z-probe that is a mechanical switch, basically the same switch used by the endstops. I have plans for a more sophisticated one later, but not until I get these latest oddities fixed.
thanks,
DLC
Mark_Ingle
#7
Okay…you may have a bad stepper driver board.
What kind of controller are you using?
RoboDLC
#8
RAMPS 1.4 shield with StepStick stepper drivers.
But, I was looking at goop that had piled up on top of the heater block and realized that there is a simple explanation that explains both the nozzel offset change, plastic goober and burnt PLA patches.
My heater block has come slightly unscrewed. When you install the extruder nozzle you screw that in first, then screw the heater block onto the feeder tube. There is nothing keeping that heater block fixed in place (a mechanical bug if you ask me.) Just before I started having my print problems I had to remove the Bowden tube from the filament feeder. It was a difficult pull and my wiring for the fans and the heater block etc. is zip-tied to the Bowden tube.
I probably yanked that tube enough to put tension on that wire harness and the next time the heater block heated and loosened the plastic, that tension may have loosened the block. I have this mental picture of the wires coming out of the block facing a slightly different direction than they usually were. This would cause the nozzle to be a little closer to the bed, it could be sucking in burnt plastic that has oozed out of the tube and onto the block, there to get toasted with long term heat exposure, and it could explain drooling plastic because the “vacuum” of the feeder tube would be broken and get air input from the joint, which is now not sealed.
I will check on this theory and report.
DLC
RoboDLC
#9
Theory Confirmed.
This whole problem was caused by me putting tension on the heater block wiring when I had to pull a broken off strand of filament from the Bowden tube!
I will leave out the string of events leading to the debacle.
The key thing was the heater block rotated about 15 degrees loose. This caused a “leak” at the top of the block and stuff to dribble off (after being burned by sitting on the block for a long time) and drool on the print. This also caused the nozzle to drop about .4mm toward the bed, throwing off the print handling and causing the print heat to bash into things. So these two apparently unrelated problems were caused by one issue, a loose heater block.
Let my experience stand as a warning to others, don’t let your hot end come unscrewed.
(Sorry, I couldn’t help myself.
DLC
ProfessorBean
#10
sorry for reviving an old thread, RoboDLC can you upload your firmware, i am experiencing issues printing and having a working firmware to compare to would be of immense help, if you even still have your kossel 2020, thanks
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3D food printer from Moscow scientists prints chocolate, cakes and even nuggets
A 3D food printer with a system of "smart" recipes that prints food products with specified properties was created by scientists from the Moscow State University of Food Production (MGUPP). The new device consists of 99% domestic components and can be used to design vending machines that print products according to the client's order. The 3D printer already prints with dough and chocolate, and in the future it will be able to produce even meat products - nuggets, for example, have already been successfully obtained.
chocolate chess
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